Did everyone notice the GRP crankshaft center-line sits slightly higher than other engines? A buddy of mine had a JP black engine on his 8. He then installed the GRP and the gear mesh became very tight. He's using quick change engine mount so he didn't move the engine mesh screws under the chassis. Same clutch bell and the like, the GRP just sits a little higher which makes the cb ride higher up on the spur gear.

Just wondering if anyone noticed this. It might make swapping engines more of a PIA when using different engines at different races, or qualifiers.

No more talk in here?

What fuel and % to use with 21?

does anyone know if the turbo button of the GRP 21 will fit the Ninja 21? thanks.

20-30%..I run 30% with the added copper shim (but it is not necessary..I just have not taken it out since I broke it in) The GRP 4 plugs will give you a broader tuning window and the temps will be a bit lower..at least they were for me (compared to the stock plug and OD97T)

What will be the best pipe fore the .21 and .28.
I bought me both engines and also bought the 2053 pipe.
Will this be the best one or are there different needs.
I have a OS 2050 MP and a OS 2060.
Also a RT 2011.
And a Novarossi 2006.

Thanks Hellsavage

how long did it take for you guys to full break the motor in? I have about half a gallon through the motor and it still seems like it is breaking and does not have the full potential yet.

Mine took 3/4 + closer to a gallon. Still pinched good can not turn mine by hand and I'm close to 2 gallons now on my GRP. My temps are usally tween 210-225, but still runs like fire at 190, so leaning it out to 210 is really not necessary IMO.

Approx 5 litres

With the shortage of 30% looming, I thought I'd break in my new GRP with 20% and continue to run Trinity 20% with a P3 plug. Anyone running 20% and a p3 in this motor? Hows it run?

I've got over 4 gallon on mine, recently replaced the rod and put in ceramic bearings, hands down the best motor I've ever owned. I've owned dang near all of them at some point. I go 10 mins on it all the time.

I run a #5 GRP plug in it, temps right at or under 200, crazy power.

I recently switched over to the MSR 1005 from the 2053 and I think I like it a bit more. Not quit as smooth but lots more power.

I tried the p3 in my first GRP and didn't like it. You had to over tighen it to make it fit without leaking, just spend the other 2 bucks and get the GRP #5 and call it good. I have the same #5 in mine from break in.

During the break in procedure, is there any need to remove or add shims to run Byrons 30% fuel?

Nope, its comes shimmed for 30%

By reading the entire thread I got to know that there are some users who are happy with the OS P3 plugs and GRP plugs.

It's funny you should say that. We were at the local track this weekend and the #5 plug we had in the GRP died. So we go to purchase a new one and they are all out. Hmm! So the guy acturally went and matched the P3 up with the calipers and a ninja plug and they are very, very close. Put the P# in and wow what a HUGE difference it made. The cold plug was coming off with temps of like 220-230, after a 10 minute main, the motor came off at 187 and was humping dirt big time. So it's safe to say that the change was awesome!