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Old 03-02-2009 | 12:53 PM
  #1006  
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Originally Posted by Franchize04
Drake's link didn't mention anything about tuning, it was only the break-in procedure. I didn't know anything about the lean lsn and rich hsn. I looked back through the posts but nothing specific is mentioned about tuning procedure. Lets say if I go back to factory settings. Do I tune the lsn or hsn first? I tuned my novas from the top down and this doesn't work well with GRP.
It's common to go back and forth a few times. You have to adjust the lsn so that the engine will idle for a few seconds without flaming. Then you need to adjust the hsn close to the ball park / slightly rich. Then go back to the lsn for a little fine tuning, then back to the hsn for some fine tuning, etc etc.
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Old 03-02-2009 | 01:13 PM
  #1007  
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Originally Posted by John Schafer
The durability of the GRP pipes is holding me back. I'm lookin more at the 2060 or ninja 2042, maybe even a Bigboy.
go with a dynamite 053, its a great pipe. the grp loves it
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Old 03-02-2009 | 01:15 PM
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How did you guys break in your grp's? Should I heat cycle or should I follow the break in method in the manual.
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Old 03-02-2009 | 01:27 PM
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the 2060 dosent work well on this engine, i had to use a 2060 one time it was allright but didnt have the power that the 053 or associated 2035 had
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Old 03-02-2009 | 02:21 PM
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Hello, Can someone tell me how can you tell by the way the motor is running if the plug is too HOT? I am running a P3 right now but am thinking of trying a P4. thanks
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Old 03-02-2009 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by white48rc
Motor will run a little hotter when thay are new as long you have smoke you will be good.Temps will come down once you have a good gallon through it and the power will be good.
+1 tune to smoke and performance and the engine will run strong for man gallons to come. I ran a grp tuned .21 on sidewinder and it liked to run at 220 all day long. I just always tune to smoke and performance.
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Old 03-02-2009 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by [email protected]
How did you guys break in your grp's? Should I heat cycle or should I follow the break in method in the manual.
Fast and hard is best. Well at least more fun.
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Old 03-02-2009 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by rcboxer
Hello, Can someone tell me how can you tell by the way the motor is running if the plug is too HOT? I am running a P3 right now but am thinking of trying a P4. thanks
One way is to look at the plug element. If the plug is to hot the element will get distorted at high rpms.

Finding the right heat range is best done by trial and error. Instal the next colder plug and re-tune the engine. If you are going in the right direction you will need to lean the needles slightly, you will have more power and cooler running temps. If you go to cold the temps will go up, you will have flame out issues, and problems keeping a good idle.
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Old 03-02-2009 | 03:29 PM
  #1014  
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I love the grp pipe. I havent had anyh issues with it. I think Im gonna order my mew grp tommorrow. Im having a hard time deciding between the new ninja jx or the grp thou. I have a 2nd hand grp now thou that I like alot so I leaning towards that way
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Old 03-02-2009 | 03:35 PM
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I ran my powerhouse modded GRP and it ran 165-175 all night. The motor had 4 tanks on it before that night as well so it was basically new. go on to the powerhouse thread and ask him what the needle settings he has on his cause its dialed. The motor should run cooler not hotter after you get it modded, that with powerhouse modded motors anyway. All my motors have been modded by him and all idle better, run cooler and have more power yet still silky smooth, than in stock form. I cant believe you even got that motor in the 200 degree range.
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Old 03-02-2009 | 03:42 PM
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So far from what I've seen from my Powerhouse modded GRP .21, I wished I had bought the Ninja. Drove a freinds car with a JX-Ninja and a Ninja 2042 pipe a few months ago. The GRP is not even close to the power and delivery of the Ninja.
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Old 03-02-2009 | 04:27 PM
  #1017  
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Originally Posted by Fierle03
I ran my powerhouse modded GRP and it ran 165-175 all night. The motor had 4 tanks on it before that night as well so it was basically new. go on to the powerhouse thread and ask him what the needle settings he has on his cause its dialed. The motor should run cooler not hotter after you get it modded, that with powerhouse modded motors anyway. All my motors have been modded by him and all idle better, run cooler and have more power yet still silky smooth, than in stock form. I cant believe you even got that motor in the 200 degree range.

+1 the motor that is in question is way out of tune ...these motors will run all day long at 160-190 range depending on the circumstances ....if you run a grp at 220-230 range ...you WILL be buying a new piston and sleeve and or a new motor ....its just a fact ....
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Old 03-02-2009 | 04:31 PM
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During break in though you want to keep thhose temps right?
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Old 03-02-2009 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by John Schafer
I broke-in and raced 2 new GRPs last weekend. A tuned .28 and a Powerhouse .21 . On the .21 I ran a JP-1 (powerhouse recommended) a 6mm restrictor and, a MC-9 plug. On the tuned .28 I ran a MSR 1005 with a 6mm restrictor and, a O.S. P-3 plug. Both engines ran, tuned and idled flawlessly on Sidewinder 30%/12%. Both engines also ran in the 230 degree range. I was not overly impressed in the power department, but then again they don't have much fuel through them and they had 6mm restrictors. Also both engines, buggy and truggy were getting about 8.5 minuted per tank. I think the pipe choice and the engines still being tight had a little effect on the runtime and also running temps.

I will be trying different pipes next time, which may be several months before I get the chance to race again. Someone said a few posts earlier that these engines were "cold blooded". I disagree. Compared to my Werks engines the GRP's are great...
do yourself a favor ...get some colder o.s. plugs and take the needles back to the stock settings ....
hsn=3.5 turns out from bottom
lsn= 6.25 turns out from bottom
idle gap is about 1.25 mm

heat the motor up with a heat gun ....try and crank it ...if it doesnt crank lean the lsn only up a small hour turn ....try again ....if it doesnt crank repeat until it does ....also how did you break it in ....how many tanks did you idle through it ? did you heat cycle it ? did you just blip it around at running temp of no more than 200 degrees? did you wrap the head in aluminum foil? if you didnt you may not have a great impression of the motor ....if you break it in this way you should get many gallons out of it ...i dont just say this because i think it ....i have had a team losi driver (alan burton) teach me how the engine should be broken in and tuned ....they will run at temps above 220 and beyond ...but as jyzf said ...it aint gonna run for long just my .02 and i have either broken in or helped break in 3 of these motors in the past month ....hope it works for ya ..they are super sweet motors ..they just tune different than say like o.s. motors ....
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Old 03-02-2009 | 04:45 PM
  #1020  
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I will start by first saying I am not one to ruffle feathers but how can it be possible to run a grp motor at 220 and be shortening its lifespan? Is the motor not an ABC sleeve with aluminum piston? What makes the motor so much different than anything else out there that it must be run at that cold of a temp? I do not tune for numbers but by smoke, sound and performance. I use temp only for reference. I am interested in a grp but all this talk of running the motor at such low temps just doesnt sound right.
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