Go-Tech Engines Thread
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 307
From: TX
Well first off no apologies needed for jumping in to this forum. Feel free to come in and ask any question you need to.
As for the pipes. The 2072 has been the best all around pipe i have used on the GX7. The JP4 also worked pretty well and so did the 2013. However on a tight astroturf track I would probably go with the 053. It will get you on the pipe (lots of bottom) quicker than any of the others I mentioned and still not lose to much top.
As for the pipes. The 2072 has been the best all around pipe i have used on the GX7. The JP4 also worked pretty well and so did the 2013. However on a tight astroturf track I would probably go with the 053. It will get you on the pipe (lots of bottom) quicker than any of the others I mentioned and still not lose to much top.
man Flanno ..never leave the crappy std on/off switch in they always fail..I don't much like the futaba plug your using either..try tamiya plugs..not a lot bigger than the futaba but much larger pin contact area for a better connection and a clip to lock the two halves together..
I use protect JST conectors. They are compact and can handle some current plus they can handle being plugged in and unplugged all the time.
On an engine note. It that the Go 2072 pipe your going to be running on that .25? My RW mods .25 6 port loved that pipe. Maybe Godzilla will like it to.
On an engine note. It that the Go 2072 pipe your going to be running on that .25? My RW mods .25 6 port loved that pipe. Maybe Godzilla will like it to.

OK, for you Mugen and X ray guys, not sure if will work for other brands, you will have to test for yourselves.
If you have a realy worn crank shaft end from your clutch bearings and don't want to replace the whole crank, here is a cheeper alternative.
Remove all clutch assembly,
get out your dremel cutting wheel and cut off the clutch shaft just in front of the clutch nut thread,
and replace with these below;
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Hex-Screw-Full
and
http://www.go-engine.com/pdt_view2.a...area=15&cat=28
I don't have a GO flywheel, but I use
http://answer-rcusa.com/zencart/inde...roducts_id=358
If you have a realy worn crank shaft end from your clutch bearings and don't want to replace the whole crank, here is a cheeper alternative.
Remove all clutch assembly,
get out your dremel cutting wheel and cut off the clutch shaft just in front of the clutch nut thread,
and replace with these below;
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Hex-Screw-Full
and
http://www.go-engine.com/pdt_view2.a...area=15&cat=28
I don't have a GO flywheel, but I use
http://answer-rcusa.com/zencart/inde...roducts_id=358
Last edited by Flanno; 04-06-2011 at 07:15 PM.
OK, for you Mugen and X ray guys, not sure if will work for other brands, you will have to test for yourselves.
If you have a realy worn crank shaft end from your clutch bearings and don't want to replace the whole crank, here is a cheeper alternative.
Remove all clutch assembly,
get out your dremel cutting wheel and cut off the clutch shaft just in front of the clutch nut thread,
and replace with these below;
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Hex-Screw-Full
and
http://www.go-engine.com/pdt_view2.a...area=15&cat=28
I don't have a GO flywheel, but I use
http://answer-rcusa.com/zencart/inde...roducts_id=358
If you have a realy worn crank shaft end from your clutch bearings and don't want to replace the whole crank, here is a cheeper alternative.
Remove all clutch assembly,
get out your dremel cutting wheel and cut off the clutch shaft just in front of the clutch nut thread,
and replace with these below;
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Hex-Screw-Full
and
http://www.go-engine.com/pdt_view2.a...area=15&cat=28
I don't have a GO flywheel, but I use
http://answer-rcusa.com/zencart/inde...roducts_id=358
I will get a few of those in for the boys with some wear on their GX and MG cranks. I have the anodised alloy GO flywheels in stock already. Very popular too I might add. They match especially well with the anodised bits on the new GXII's - very BLING !!
Tech Champion

Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 6,299
When are these things going to be available in Europe(including the clutch)?
And will an older version Go conrod work? I have a new Caster conrod and front-bearing is why I ask.. Might be more inclined to get a new engine I already have parts for...
And will an older version Go conrod work? I have a new Caster conrod and front-bearing is why I ask.. Might be more inclined to get a new engine I already have parts for...
Are you refering to the GXII motor ?
There was a hold up with the new GXII packaging. They would have shipped out from the factory last Friday or early this week, so you should start to see them in a few days (like you say, depending on good old customs).
OK, for you Mugen and X ray guys, not sure if will work for other brands, you will have to test for yourselves.
If you have a realy worn crank shaft end from your clutch bearings and don't want to replace the whole crank, here is a cheeper alternative.
Remove all clutch assembly,
get out your dremel cutting wheel and cut off the clutch shaft just in front of the clutch nut thread,
and replace with these below;
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Hex-Screw-Full
and
http://www.go-engine.com/pdt_view2.a...area=15&cat=28
I don't have a GO flywheel, but I use
http://answer-rcusa.com/zencart/inde...roducts_id=358
If you have a realy worn crank shaft end from your clutch bearings and don't want to replace the whole crank, here is a cheeper alternative.
Remove all clutch assembly,
get out your dremel cutting wheel and cut off the clutch shaft just in front of the clutch nut thread,
and replace with these below;
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Hex-Screw-Full
and
http://www.go-engine.com/pdt_view2.a...area=15&cat=28
I don't have a GO flywheel, but I use
http://answer-rcusa.com/zencart/inde...roducts_id=358





Hey Flanno...is that ofna nut assembly small enough to fit the JVD/Ascendancy racing clutch? Grizz1 can you try it and see as I have at least 1 MG66 crank with that kind of wear on the end..be nice to reuse it.
Hi Gizz, I think that nut might be a little big to fit down inside the retaining collar of the Ascendancy unit. I have some of the adaptors on the way down to me from A-Main, so should have them in around 4 - 5 days. I will check it all out and let you know if it will work asap.



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