Go-Tech Engines Thread
wow...i am loved
j/k....i have been at the Nats Warm Up race @ Thunder Alley all weekend....motor is dialed, truck is dialed...driver is lame LOL....i ended up getting 9th in Open Truggy with the GX5R and Sirio 2013 pipe( Thanks Flanno, your 2072 is on its way
)..i have been doing ALOT of racing in the past month, so thats why i havent been able to post on here lately...take care guys...talk to you soon
j/k....i have been at the Nats Warm Up race @ Thunder Alley all weekend....motor is dialed, truck is dialed...driver is lame LOL....i ended up getting 9th in Open Truggy with the GX5R and Sirio 2013 pipe( Thanks Flanno, your 2072 is on its way
)..i have been doing ALOT of racing in the past month, so thats why i havent been able to post on here lately...take care guys...talk to you soon
+1
Normally you end up around 1.25 to 1.5 turns in on the bottom end, with the top not far off flush with the original long lsn.
With the newer GXII lsn it seems both needles are not far off flush. I didn't adjust the bottom end on mine much at all from the factory settings and it rocks.
All my motors are here and being distributed today and tomorrow, so lots of happy GO people this week
Time for another order now
One thing guys - if your looking at putting the new head and button on the GX motors, the head bolts are a little longer (2mm) on the GXII to allow for the thicker head button assembly. Part # is S6-3518. May be prudent to fit these with the new head and button.
Normally you end up around 1.25 to 1.5 turns in on the bottom end, with the top not far off flush with the original long lsn.
With the newer GXII lsn it seems both needles are not far off flush. I didn't adjust the bottom end on mine much at all from the factory settings and it rocks.
All my motors are here and being distributed today and tomorrow, so lots of happy GO people this week

Time for another order now

One thing guys - if your looking at putting the new head and button on the GX motors, the head bolts are a little longer (2mm) on the GXII to allow for the thicker head button assembly. Part # is S6-3518. May be prudent to fit these with the new head and button.
+1
Normally you end up around 1.25 to 1.5 turns in on the bottom end, with the top not far off flush with the original long lsn.
With the newer GXII lsn it seems both needles are not far off flush. I didn't adjust the bottom end on mine much at all from the factory settings and it rocks.
All my motors are here and being distributed today and tomorrow, so lots of happy GO people this week
Time for another order now
One thing guys - if your looking at putting the new head and button on the GX motors, the head bolts are a little longer (2mm) on the GXII to allow for the thicker head button assembly. Part # is S6-3518. May be prudent to fit these with the new head and button.
Normally you end up around 1.25 to 1.5 turns in on the bottom end, with the top not far off flush with the original long lsn.
With the newer GXII lsn it seems both needles are not far off flush. I didn't adjust the bottom end on mine much at all from the factory settings and it rocks.
All my motors are here and being distributed today and tomorrow, so lots of happy GO people this week

Time for another order now

One thing guys - if your looking at putting the new head and button on the GX motors, the head bolts are a little longer (2mm) on the GXII to allow for the thicker head button assembly. Part # is S6-3518. May be prudent to fit these with the new head and button.

Thats the clubby, it's as clean as it gets since it's only going to get dirty again tomorow
It's had the diffs rebuilt today and radio gear rewire job done yesterday to eliminate the on/off switch wich failed Sunday morning, now is direct plug in power. 
tomorow
man Flanno ..never leave the crappy std on/off switch in they always fail..I don't much like the futaba plug your using either..try tamiya plugs..not a lot bigger than the futaba but much larger pin contact area for a better connection and a clip to lock the two halves together..
I use protect JST conectors. They are compact and can handle some current plus they can handle being plugged in and unplugged all the time.
On an engine note. It that the Go 2072 pipe your going to be running on that .25? My RW mods .25 6 port loved that pipe. Maybe Godzilla will like it to.
On an engine note. It that the Go 2072 pipe your going to be running on that .25? My RW mods .25 6 port loved that pipe. Maybe Godzilla will like it to.
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hi to all,apologies for jumpin on the thread just have a few questions as a novice rc racer,running a gx 7r with go 2072 pipe and jvd rc clutch in a 2010 xray 808,mostly run on a tight astroturf track,was lookin to try a few different pipes but there are so many!!!advice on a suitable pipe for the go engine would be nice,hoping to get the new go gxii shortly and wondering what pipe to get with it for performance/economy wise,thanks in advance for any help or advice im sure this has been covered but theres a lot of reading in 950 pages!!
hi to all,apologies for jumpin on the thread just have a few questions as a novice rc racer,running a gx 7r with go 2072 pipe and jvd rc clutch in a 2010 xray 808,mostly run on a tight astroturf track,was lookin to try a few different pipes but there are so many!!!advice on a suitable pipe for the go engine would be nice,hoping to get the new go gxii shortly and wondering what pipe to get with it for performance/economy wise,thanks in advance for any help or advice im sure this has been covered but theres a lot of reading in 950 pages!!
GXII will have more punch on bottom and mid, and a similar top. powerband is more linear and predictable, but there's more of it. ;-)



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