I lost my set up on my 7 port so went back to the HSN 0.5 - 0.75 and LSN 2.5turns from flush
It is still not a perfect tune still with bogging on the initial throttle and has alot of grunt after 1/2 throttle
I am using the dynamite hi torque pipe
thanks

Sounds like your a little lean on top, and a little rich on the bottom
Try going back to flush on the HSN, then tune out any boggyness down low with the LSN until you get a nice steady idle after a short hard run, and a 4 - 5 sec pinch test.

Rex,
what you mean "2047 is a lot tougher" ?
Sorry my english is not the best one.

Cestari

the 2047 can take alot more beating, it has a reinforced stinger, the 0801 is on the fragile side.

Is there anything that can be done to protect the stinger?

What about repairs if it is damaged?

Not really. Some buggies come with a plastic stinger protector, that bolts onto the side plates and goes in front of the stinger to deflect any impacts.
Just a risk you have to take with a non reinforced stinger.
If the stinger gets bent backwards you can straighten it by putting a screwdriver up the stinger and gently levering it back into shape. If it gets split away from the pipe body it's pretty well a done deal.
However the 0801 is a great pipe, and IMO it's worth the risk of getting a few dents and dings in it for the performance it gives. Any big dents can be removed by filling the pipe (take the header off) completely with water and plugging the stinger and pipe end. Place the pipe in the freezer overnight and the expansion of the water when it freezes should pop out the dent.

If you know anyone that is running a jammin buggy down there ask them if they have an extra plastic piece like grizz described above. as parts get replaced and all there usually ends up being a bunch of them in the parts box. i have several here that i would give ya but shipping would be too much to make it worth it to there. (shipping would be more than they are worth)

ya know i know there are a lot of belief in what pipes to run with what motors. I believe that as well but Im running a 007 HT pipe on a Go 21. 7Pt Turbo and it is good for me. Its whatever you guys feel good with. I don't want to offend anyone so im just saying how ive been doing.

Thats cool tagalong. Whatever your happy with. However it has been proven in dyno tests and with hours and hours of track testing that particular pipes do work better on certain motors - there is no denying it
In the GO range of engines the pipes that shine have been proven to be:

3 Port - 086 or 0801
5 Port - 086 or 0801
7 Port - 053 or 0801 or 2047 with 0801 header

If you want to get the absolute best out of your motor, you probably should be running one of the pipes above, especially for the economy side of things as well.
You can always tame down the bottom end etc if you need to with clutch / restrictor / exponential settings and so on. It just seems a shame to me to have a screaming top end 7 Port and stifle it with a bottom end pipe

I was thinking of trying my RB 2045 with the long 0801 header on my 7 port. I'll let you all know how well it works.

Hey fellas.... where is the cheapest place to get GO TECH engines.. mainly the .21 5Port Silver head.... turbo or non turbo make a difference in power?

Cheapest place is Massive Mods. You can get the modded 5 port for what you'd pay for the stock one here in the states because of the currency conversion rate.

I agree the 3 port is a top motor , very rally style throttle response .

The 2047 makes more HP up top on the dyno but the 0801 is snappier all round. I think for long sweeping tracks the 2047 is great , smoother bottom end. the 0801 is great for technical tracks when you need snap to clear jumps out of the corner.

finally got to start breaking in my go 7 port this afternoon. I used some oil from massive mods. I think it is run in oil. you put in the engine first then turn over by hand a few times,then dry start on the starter box for about ten seconds,.after half a tank you add more oil to the nitro. by the time I got towards the end of the 1st tank the engine was purring nicely. I had foil around the head, engine stayed around 180-190 degree mark at idle after half a tank was gone. before that was around the 150ish mark. I do not know how much that oil from massive mods helped in the break in process or if I am just lucky. But my engine only locked in place once. after I got it unlocked and refired had no more lock up issues. no I cannot turn over by hand being the pinch is so tight but I did not burn out a starter box either. was so surprised that this oil maybe doing what it say's it would that I put some in my 5 port. since the 5 port has 1.5 gallons and is just really starting to break in I figured it wouldn't hurt to do the same thing to it. bigger then crap engine after idling 1/2 tank started to smooth out on the idle, didn't touch a thing. they say there is no magic fix in a can,but I think this proves them wrong. I would recommend everyone purchase this for the tool box.