Go-Tech Engines Thread
loose head bolt
loose pinch bolt screw
leaking needle O Ring
leaking front bearing (highly possible)
leaking back plate O Ring
I know you have already checked the tank and lines, but some tanks can be a pain. Have you tried a different brand of tank ??
Have you tried running it a little rich on top then seeing if it still bogs below half a tank ?
Not trying to make you feel bad inferno, but I think it is a tuning issue

If your new to nitro motors finding the right balance can be tricky. It a steep learning curve, and we have all struggled at some stage to master the dark art
hey guys, quick question.
I have a line on a pretty good priced Go .21 5PT motor. My question is, I know this isnt the newest line of engines, but how are they? It would be going in a Jammin X1-CRT. Just looking for some feedback on that particular model. Its got a new rod and bearings in it. And for the price, I cant pass it up. Unless of course, its a dog.
I have a line on a pretty good priced Go .21 5PT motor. My question is, I know this isnt the newest line of engines, but how are they? It would be going in a Jammin X1-CRT. Just looking for some feedback on that particular model. Its got a new rod and bearings in it. And for the price, I cant pass it up. Unless of course, its a dog.
Go to the Tech Tips page on our web site at www.go-racing.co.nz for tuning tips and other info on these motors.
You are most likely looking at a Gen 5 or Gen 5.5 motor, which are very good models. I have a modded Gen 5 which is still running very strong, so reliability and longevity is not a concern, plus if something does go wrong, parts are very affordable.
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
It may well be an air leak via any of the following:
loose head bolt
loose pinch bolt screw
leaking needle O Ring
leaking front bearing (highly possible)
leaking back plate O Ring
I know you have already checked the tank and lines, but some tanks can be a pain. Have you tried a different brand of tank ??
Unless you have the top end too lean, bog below half a tank normally points to something external, other than tuning.
Have you tried running it a little rich on top then seeing if it still bogs below half a tank ?
Not trying to make you feel bad inferno, but I think it is a tuning issue
If your new to nitro motors finding the right balance can be tricky. It a steep learning curve, and we have all struggled at some stage to master the dark art
loose head bolt
loose pinch bolt screw
leaking needle O Ring
leaking front bearing (highly possible)
leaking back plate O Ring
I know you have already checked the tank and lines, but some tanks can be a pain. Have you tried a different brand of tank ??
Unless you have the top end too lean, bog below half a tank normally points to something external, other than tuning.
Have you tried running it a little rich on top then seeing if it still bogs below half a tank ?
Not trying to make you feel bad inferno, but I think it is a tuning issue

If your new to nitro motors finding the right balance can be tricky. It a steep learning curve, and we have all struggled at some stage to master the dark art

ive been racing for 4 years, not really new to nitro, thats all i run, but learn somthing new everyday! no air leaks, i have had 4 differnt new tanks, headbolts tight, i have done absolutly everything! i have tried lean hsn rich hsn, have read through the go support page listed a few pages back. im stumped!!! still has great compression, im going to throw a differnt carb on it tomorrow and see if that does anything. thanks
Sorry bro, I didn't know how long you had been playing with these little buggers, so just assumed you were fairly new 
Without actually seeing and hearing the motor run, and having a "hands on" play, it's just too hard to surmise what the problem might be on-line.
I am told all the GO parts slip straight into the Nova +4, so the Nova carb should be a sure bet to fit the GO.
Let us know what happens when you fit that. Check the OR-0004 and OR-0014 O Rings when you pull the carb too. This can be another spot for tiny air leaks.

Without actually seeing and hearing the motor run, and having a "hands on" play, it's just too hard to surmise what the problem might be on-line.
I am told all the GO parts slip straight into the Nova +4, so the Nova carb should be a sure bet to fit the GO.
Let us know what happens when you fit that. Check the OR-0004 and OR-0014 O Rings when you pull the carb too. This can be another spot for tiny air leaks.
One other thing to check is the carburetor base the part that goes into the case. If the pinch bolt is overtightened, it will create a divot in the metal sleeve around the plastic base. If tightened enough, this will separate part of the metal sleeve from the plastic innards. Thus creating air leaks in two spots of the same area.
I'm also assuming this is a newer gx motor? If not, straight up replace the seals.
I'm also assuming this is a newer gx motor? If not, straight up replace the seals.
One other thing to check is the carburetor base the part that goes into the case. If the pinch bolt is overtightened, it will create a divot in the metal sleeve around the plastic base. If tightened enough, this will separate part of the metal sleeve from the plastic innards. Thus creating air leaks in two spots of the same area.
I'm also assuming this is a newer gx motor? If not, straight up replace the seals.
I'm also assuming this is a newer gx motor? If not, straight up replace the seals.
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 45
From: England - York
The buggy would idle all day great and have plenty of decent low and high end power but occasionally would just die when i got to the 1st corner
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 69
These are a good reliable motor Rod. Just read up on the tuning guides available, and maybe quickly scan over the last 30 or so pages on here. There is a lot of good info been layed down in the last month or so.
Go to the Tech Tips page on our web site at www.go-racing.co.nz for tuning tips and other info on these motors.
You are most likely looking at a Gen 5 or Gen 5.5 motor, which are very good models. I have a modded Gen 5 which is still running very strong, so reliability and longevity is not a concern, plus if something does go wrong, parts are very affordable.
Go to the Tech Tips page on our web site at www.go-racing.co.nz for tuning tips and other info on these motors.
You are most likely looking at a Gen 5 or Gen 5.5 motor, which are very good models. I have a modded Gen 5 which is still running very strong, so reliability and longevity is not a concern, plus if something does go wrong, parts are very affordable.
And im not new to nitro, just to truggys. I have a GO .21 in my Phil Thomas Sport 20 boat. Its a damn good runner, but its the newest generation, so wasnt sure if the older ones were decent or not.
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
Sorry bro, I didn't know how long you had been playing with these little buggers, so just assumed you were fairly new 
Without actually seeing and hearing the motor run, and having a "hands on" play, it's just too hard to surmise what the problem might be on-line.
I am told all the GO parts slip straight into the Nova +4, so the Nova carb should be a sure bet to fit the GO.
Let us know what happens when you fit that. Check the OR-0004 and OR-0014 O Rings when you pull the carb too. This can be another spot for tiny air leaks.

Without actually seeing and hearing the motor run, and having a "hands on" play, it's just too hard to surmise what the problem might be on-line.
I am told all the GO parts slip straight into the Nova +4, so the Nova carb should be a sure bet to fit the GO.
Let us know what happens when you fit that. Check the OR-0004 and OR-0014 O Rings when you pull the carb too. This can be another spot for tiny air leaks.
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
Seriously- replace the seals in the carb. Up to gen 5.5 were reddish brown rubber seals. These degrade over time- even sitting on the shelf. The new black nitrile seals are a different world. You can validate this by taking out your lsn or hsn and looking at the seals. Shoot me an email at [email protected].
Ok guys, I'm planning some changes for 2011. One of the things I want to address is the lsn on the race engines. To my knowledge, we here in the US are the only ones that use the short/blunt lsn. Personally, I made the switch to the longer lsn and like the linear power curve. I also like the tuning characteristics of the longer lsn.
So... the 3 choices I have are:
Leave as-is and continue to offer the long lsn as an option.
Order all motors from here out with the long lsn and offer the short as an option.
Include both and slightly increase the dealer price and MAP of the motors and combos.
So... the 3 choices I have are:
Leave as-is and continue to offer the long lsn as an option.
Order all motors from here out with the long lsn and offer the short as an option.
Include both and slightly increase the dealer price and MAP of the motors and combos.



2Likes
...oh well!