I bought the dynamite dual motor starter box about 3 weeks ago from stormerhobbies, it was $49 at the time but it was the last one. If you are looking for some good wheels cheap check out the vp-pro line of wheels. You can get a pair of premounts for $18 and last week they had free shipping. The vp-pro wings are nice also, i run one on my buggy right now. Anyhow i don't have a bunch of experience with the vp-pro line as i just picked up 3 sets of wheels within the last 2-3 weeks, but so far they are as good or better than the aka's and pro-lines i used to run for 1/2 the price.

I'll definitely check it out at least. Good looking out buddy.

Will drop you a line, that's very nice of you thanks :)

Paul

Hey All

Just gong over a situation regarding changing fuel Nitro content VS blowing plugs.

here is something i posted to a friend that was asking the question ....

When you up your nitro content you MUST shim to suit or you will blow plugs. You should add 0.1 mm of shimming at least for 30% nitro from standard.

Reason being is the plug gets hammered by the extra nitro content and higher impact explosion in such a small gap ..

Please let your friends know to re shim and re tune when you change fuels .

General rule for turbo and non turbo 21 to 30 size engines

20% nitro 0.3 to 0.4 mm med to hot plug
25% nitro 0.4 to 0.6 mm med plug
30% nitro 0.6 to 0.8 mm Med to cold plug

You also need to use a colder plug with high nitro , hot plugs get fried on high nitro because they have thinner elements .


Hope this info helps :)

www.massivemods.com.au :batman:

Mark DeBerard

Hi, I bought my engine from a UK supplier http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prods...5R-PI2072.html

and just wanted to know which needle I have, as I have read many usefull tuning guide that the GO's have long LSN needles so that is why we tune the idle, then lsn and finally the hsn.

I am fairly happy with tune following these steps and is flying around the track yesterday with great bottom end power and but sometimes it was like it blow out and stalled, unfortunatly I could hear the engine so could tell if it was bogging but i did richen the hsn as advised to do this earlier in the post.

A fellow racer came and looked at my setup and said that my tune is all wrong and should be tuning the hsn 1st,,, I told him that the needle is a long lsn needle and he looked at me stupid, so please help :nod:

If your motor was purchased from the UK it will have the long needle to the best of my knowledge. I believe only the US import the GO motors from the factory with the shorter needle fitted.

Best way to check is to open the throttle fully and look down the carb throat.
If at full throttle you can see the low speed needle going across the entire width of the carb throat and still entering the receiver jet on the right hand side - you have the long needle carb.
If the low speed needle is only going half way across the carb throat and has completely left the receiver jet at full throttle - you have the short needle.

If you have the long needle carb - DO NOT LISTEN TO PEOPLE WHO TELL YOU THE TUNE IS ALL WRONG. They are not familiar with the long needle carb and will not know what they are talking about. All they will do is succeed in confusing you completely, and possibly kill your motor by running it way too lean, despite their best intentions. Just thank them for their input, then ignore everything they have said.

If you have the long needle carb, follow the tuning tips on either the Massive Mods or GO Racing NZ site, and you will be fine.

Setting the idle gap, then tuning bottom end, top end, then revisting the bottom end is a good way to tune any motor - long or short needle carb.

Beware of helpful people in the pits, unless you know they are very experianced racers whose cars perform faultlessly race after race without no tuning issues or flame outs etc.

Many Thanks for that useful info I will do the above as I am pretty sure I am on the long needle as I am very happy with the engine and I think I am just making too bigger adjustments to the hsn as maybe getting a bog after WOT

Thanks again

The HSN is very sensitive on these motors. Making an adjustment of an hour will make a significant difference, so that could be your problem.
The fact that the HSN is set just a fraction in from flush for normal running on the long needle motors, normally throws people who don't know these motors right off track.
First thing they say is - ¨Wow, your way too rich on the top end¨ and proceed to screw the HSN in about a full turn and a half :flaming: Then your in big trouble :D

Hi all

As i posted some pages before i got a new GX5R for my Losi 8T 2.0 truggy.
The past weekend we got it broken-in. The engine is still tight after 3-4 litres. I think we might have to run some more through it, before it's race-ready.

Now i quick question. I cannot seem to be able to get the piston out. When i try to pull the con rod out of the crank pin it just won't budge out. Is it stuck on the piston pin? Should i run it some more, so i will be able to move it?

what i would do is wrap a towel or cloth around a set of needle nose pliers and just grab it and pull!....it is just a little snug on there only cause it is BRAND NEW still! that should help get it of the crank pin without harming anything!

+1. did the sleeve come out hard too? or did it slide right out?

Sleeve was hard, but i got it out. But then it was extra hard to get it back in. After some efforts, i found that it needs to be perfectly aligned to get it back in without pushing it hard.

So i think i will wait till it's fully broken in till i give it a thorough cleaning.

Sorry guys it's my first Go Engine. My previous motor was an O.S. V-Spec whose sleeve and piston was a piece of cake to get them out.

have fun with your NEW GO!...once SHE breaks in you will know,cause she will GO!...lol:lol:

The rods on the GX motors are a very nice fit. You will struggle to get the old rod off until around the 2 gallon mark (it shouldn't need to come off before this anyway).
If you do need to remove the rod, get a cable tie and put it around the back of the rod then pull the end out with a pair of pliers. Now do up the cable tie and leave just a small loop sticking out of the crankcase. Place something through the loop and use the rear of the crankcase to lever against, and pop the rod off. This way you only have plastic touching the rod, plus you have nothing actually inside the motor that can slip and go metal on metal anywhere :cool:
When you put the sleeve back in, just wiggle it from side to side slightly for the first 10mm or so. You will feel it slot in, after that it should slide down pretty easy.
Same when you take it out. Pop a cable tie in the exhaust port and turn the motor over (leave the flywheel on until you have done this) to push the sleeve up enough to get a flat screw driver under the lip and wedge it up enough to get a grip on with your fingers. Pull it up and wiggle it from side to side as you pull up on it - it will pop out easy.

You guys know your stuff on these GO's. It has really helped me with tuning so now it takes me no timie at all to get my motor at race tune. Just figured i would say thanks. :nod: