Tabushi

Chris Pace is a local AE driver that runs for GO, he has always used the 5 port, and Just wraped up and won the East Coast nitro series championships running this motor. He would tell you the 5 port all day. and he also runs the 0801 pipe. This being said, he was running against losi drivers with GRP, Ex Teck Sirio, NR,OS, and all others.

Like i posted abouve, i have always liked the 5 ports, but am hooked on the 7 with the same pipe.

Thanks man !!, i just emailed Russel from racefactorindustries ... and will meet Chris when arriving to Charlotte.

Im more a 7 port guy as i used the engine on rather technical tracks with very good results, used the 5 port too and its great, but i feel more confortable with the 7 port (not modified, stock).

thanks again ...

Tabushi your the man you are kicking ass every where you go. good luck at the farm.

What kind of bump box would you sudjest to turn over these tight engines ?
Thinking of getting the go 3p race to use for short dirt track ovel stock class.

ive used the ofna blue truggy start box without problems

I have been on the track whole day. I've used other fuel and the engine performed very well. My settings are not the same as from you guys, but I'm happy with my GO engine. If someone is interested, here are my needle settings:
HSN is 1 1/4 turns in from flush
LSN is 2 1/4 turns in from flush

Hey for you guys that have the new gen5 7 or 5 port, on the slide valve there is a very thin notch, It either faces up or down when you look down the carb with the airfilter off. It does not show what way in the manual. I forgot to pay attention when I took it apart. :eek: Thanks guys

How do you tune your LSN on the 3 port R or 5,7 ports?

I tune my engines by counting the time it needs to load up from a WOT run and by how it accelerates after idling for 5-10 secs.

The thing with the GO is that if i tune it to load up at 10sec as i do to all of my other engines it will lean bog after 1-2 minutes of racing.
So i try to set it for 3-4sec, any longer and it will lean bog, any sooner and it won't accelerate as it should after idling for a few secs...that is if it doesn't die from the rich settings.

5-port Parts
 

Anyone know where to find parts? Every place online is back ordered.
Looking for the sleeve, piston and rod (GOT21-2205).

Thanks

Mine Go 7 Port Turbo steady idle for about 10 to 12 seconds and then the engine rpm decrease steadily (it loads up with fuel) and no lean bog after minute or 2 of racing.

Try tuning with those tips http://www.rchobbies.org/engine-tuning.htm

Try using the pinch test. Pinch the fuel line off hard with your fingers so the flow is completely stopped. Do this about 1 inch back from the fuel nipple on the carb.
What you are looking for is for is upon pinching off the fuel supply the engine revs will rise slightly (about 500 - 800 rpm only) for about 4 secs, then the engine will stop. If the revs do not rise at all, and the engine stops after a bout 4 - 5 secs, you are too lean on the LSN. If the engine just stops straight away, you are way too lean on the LSN. If the engine revs up more than 1000 rpm you are too rich. If the engine revs up considerably then dies, you are way too rich. This system works very well. When you get the revs coming up slightly for 4 secs or so then the engine stopping, your LSN is close to perfect. This setting should see your buggy take off cleanly with lots of bottm end from a 10 sec idle.
With the LSN set this way on my engine, it will idle away happily for ages without loading up - then accelerate cleanly. Give it a try.

If your buggy comes in after a run and the idle drops off significantly after a 10 secs or so, your LSN is too rich.
Make sure your idle gap is set between .7 - 1 mm and that your HSN is set correcly first for good performance and smoke right through the rev range. If you change your HSN it will have a direct effect on the LSN too, so always set the HSN first. Let us know how you get on. Cheers :cool:

3 port race spec
 

i just got a 3 port race spec, i think i got a good one here. i had a r b concept l2g 5 port and it was hard to break in and i blew it up in 3 races(i want my money back on that junk!!!) . the 3 port was a breeze to began to break in.I also put the extra shim in and took it completly apart and cleaned it out and sealed up, with foil on the head, temps stayed at 200=210. at the 6 tank i was able to drive it up and down my drive way, still fat ( rich ). same for the 7th tank. the 8th tank i took off the foil and temps 200=220 and leaned out the lsn 2 hours. just enough to start a race tune, but still fat and good smoke. the end cause i had to go to work. i still need to put the rest of the break in gallon in the motor befor it is ready. i do know now i want the 5 port race spec motor! 5 port will work better for the two tracks i run on. BUT BOTTOM LINE I LOVE THESE MOTORS!!!!:tire::tire::tire::tire:

But in article about nitro engine tuning http://www.rchobbies.org/cars_eng-tuning.htm under LOW-SPEED NEEDLE is writen:

'The ideal setting allows the engine to hold a smooth, steady idle for 10 to 20 seconds (max), and then the engine rpm decrease steadily because the crankcase loads up with fuel.'

Grizzly, why do you thing if the idle drops off significantly after a 10 secs or so, your LSN is too rich?

If I set my LSN leaner, than the engine idles with too much RPM.

P.S: My idle gap is set at only .5 mm.

It seems that on the GO any longer than 6-7 secs is WAY TOO LEAN.
I don't know why it does this, i used to tune for 15 sec on my V-spec.
Although i tried different carbs on the GO except of an OS, all seemed to act the same way.
I'm beginning to believe that this has to do with the design of the engine and timing rather than the carb.

Hi Chipo - I think the key word is ¨significant¨ drop in RPM. If it just steadily gets slower and slower over time, not a problem. When it drops markedly after a short while, this is normally a sign that the LSN is too rich.
If you have a long LSN carb and your HSN is set at 1.25 turns in as you stated in a previous post, this seems way too lean on the HSN. That would be why your motor goes crazy when you lean the LSN. The HSN is like the water pipe coming into your house. It sets the total amount of water you can get. The LSN is like your tap. It sets what you get out of the tap when you open it. If you crimp your incoming water pipe (lean HSN) you won't get anything out of your tap (lean LSN) so thready rapid idle when you screw the LSN in. Are you sure your idle gap is correct ? Sounds like too wider idle gap being compensated by an overly rich LSN and lean HSN. Engine runs OK but will lean bog on a low tank and have that classic ¨load up idle¨ situation.
I may well be wrong, but the LSN tuning method I mentioned works very well for me. My 7 port runs awesome with great temps when tuned this way.

I have long needle carb. HSN 1/2 to 3/4 max in from flush. LSN 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 in from flush. Will run strong all day at these settings.

How old is your engine? If it is new, or has less than 1 gal through it, it will lean bog if you run it even just a tad lean on the HSN when it´s still tight with the long needle. Read break in article on bottom of page 78 and tuning tips by MMods and Retro RC on page 131.

Your idle will increase when you lean the LSN, thats normal. Get everything set for performance then lastly reduce the idle using idle screw if needed to where you want it.