Thank you very much :D
Forgot to mention that the fuel is also included, 25% bryons.
Would the above shimming and plug still be suitable ?
I've always had good results, fuel consumption wise, with the 2062 (JP4), any views on this pipe ?

0.3mm head clearance is straight out of the box I assume ?

should be fine with byrons 25%..not tried a jp4 myself but I'm sure someone will chime in on that and I think if you check the shims you should have 2 thin copper ones which are .1mm each and an aluminum one which is .3mm as standard..the alloy one is the same color as the head button so can be overlooked easily.so .5mm out of the box..

Byrons is fine, its a decent fuel.
JP Pipes are a tad thirsty
you cant assume what shimming is in there , take the head off and measure with a decent vernier.

make sure you only measure the shims them selves . should be 0.4 mm if you want to get the best out of the engine.

Cheers MM

i was on the run today and relized i needed an extra glow plug so i bought a OS P7 Medium plug,cause thats all they had for a good plug!..this plug should be fine right?...has any 1 tried these?...i didnt need to run it,but i needed an extra just in case!....i run 20% with a .4 shim stack and usually run odonnel 77t or 97t if they have them!

You boys got me thinking about the temperature thing with the last few posts on here.
My motors are flying, and they sure aren't running rich - sooooo I deduced the reasonably expensive and supposed decent quality temp gauge I keep in my tool box for running in motors and taking the odd "reference temperature" with just might be telling lies.
I boiled a jug of water in a glass sided electric jug, and then temped the water through the glass while it was boiling (at 100 deg C, as water does very consistantly). Three readings all of 80 deg C ?????
So when my motor is hauling butt and I temp it at the end of a 7 min heat, as I occasionally do, more out of interest than anything else, and it reads 110 deg C, it is actually more like 130 deg C if my jug experiment is anything to go by.

Now - there is a classic example of why you don't tune to a set temperature with a temp gauge (yours or someone elses). They are just not accurate enough (unless you have a super duper certified industrial unit or something). If I had gone out and re tuned my motors to run at the 135 deg to 140 deg in Massives post with my temp gauge, I would have toasted my motors. Turns out they are not far off that mark, which makes sense if they are performing as they do.
Tune using performance, sound and smoke as your guides - then you will be safe, and get good performance and longevity out of your motor.
Anyone in the market for a cheap temp gauge. In good condition with minimal use :p :D

Yes but what defines good smoke? I know when running rich the smoke is alot thicker than when running lean, but even when running lean the smoke is still visable. It would be nice to have a guideline on the smoke other than just experience. I know you can't measure the smoke but maybe a video or 2 of a good race tune would clear things up. I've had 6 different nitro rcs over the course of the last 10 years and still wonder at times how much smoke is enough and how much is too much. I always tune for performance, but like to make sure some smoke is present throughout the power band.

Well thats a tricky one. Tuning these little buggers is a bit of a dark art. Oil type and content in different fuels varies a lot, so there are no hard and fast rules on what constitutes "a good amount of smoke". I guess it does really come down to experiance, and knowing what your exhaust trail should look like with a good tune top and bottom for your set up.
You can normally tell a rich tune by the blubbery sound as well as the abundance of smoke. A top end that is too lean (but not lean enough to cause a performance drop off) may still sound ok, but a lack of visible smoke (compared to what you would expect) is the give away.

Seems to me you just have to fine tune your senses of sight and sound over time to pick what's going on with your motor - unless someone else has a system they would like to share with us that covers all the variables.

I agree the smoke trail thing is sooo dependant on fuel make/blend etc...I run RB now which smokes far more due to a slightly higher oil content than the meccamo I was using before..and I regularly check my temp gauge with the boiling water trick and only use it as a guide to check my engine isn't suddenly CHANGING temp mid way through a day probably indicating an air leak.realistically the spit test is just as effective so long as you don't burn ya fingers :eek:

+1 on the old spit test for a quick running temperature reference.
Unless you have been eating something you shouldn't have :eek: your spit will boil at the same temp on any given day, so it's probably far more accurate than my temp gauge right now :lol:

If ya look in the Aussie Go thread you'l find video and photo's of mine if that helps.

You'l notice the smoke trail from mine is the same at the start of the straight as it is at the end of it.

Different fuels will differ in amount of smoke, but I guess what I'm trying to explain is it shouldn't differer from start to finish of a long run.

If it's thick at the start but light at the end, its fat on bottom and lean on top.

Not real sure how this relates but is good reading. my temp gun i can go into a menu and change the level of emissivity.
maybe someone else can comment

I am thinking that temping a bowl of water through clear glass is not the same as temping a solid metal that is not clear. can also depend on the color of object. boiling water in a metal pan could be more accurate. But i am not really sure.

http://www.raytek.com/Raytek/en-r0/I...ogleemissivity

I temp boiling coffee :sweat::sweat::sweat: as it's always on the stove at races.

I can't change the calibration of my temp gauge but as long as it stays where its at i can tell if i'm more than a few degrees off from where i think it should be. I don't use it much, i find it gets me too worried when temps rise and the tune is good. I do the spit test on the cooling head, that seems to work well for me. I can tell if its getting way too hot.

Color and porosity of the material measured has an effect. My temp gun wants to default to 100 emission. I've found 80 is more reasonable. Each gun will be different.

Good experiment Grizz ! This shows that without a refrence point of calibration , the use of temp guns can make your day confusing !

The broader issue is there are hundreds of degrees of variation between every car , so to even ask for a refrence of " whats a good temp " is a slippery slope. hence why i say forget the temp gun and learn to tune by ear and feel.

rely on these alone and you will be better off in the long run.

Also in addition to the smoke trail. this is a good thing to look for if you are a novice tuner or using mediocre fuel. Fuel with oils that have low flash points will burn off and leave a decent smoke trail. If you notice the top end racers have very little smoke out the pipe. This is a combination of good fuel and a finer race tune.

You can see this at all racing levels , even at Go Kart racing , you always see the fast guys with no smoke out the pipe and the newer guys with a trail of smoke.

This is by no way a dig , just an observation and something for the budding enthusiast to look forward to.

Cheers MM