Try the 3-port with the 0801 pipe in truggy. you wont be disappointed.

Well the reason i'm running the 3 port in my truggy is it seems to have just a little more bottom end and the 7 port has alittle more top end so i figure each is better suited to how i have them now. I have no complaints with either motor, both make my rigs rip around my yard with authority, in fact my yard no longer has much grass. I hope to get out to the track sometime this week and give em a go, my usual track shut down but i just found a much better one this last weekend, but they are only open until 7pm during the week which doesn't give me much time to practice. I just broke in the 7 port this week in fact i still have to heat it up with the heat gun to get it turned over, but after 7 tanks i decided to start tuning for power. It didn't take much to get it ripping around the yard ;)

Cool. 7 tanks is not much. You may want to give it another 7 gentle ones just a tad rich before you start tuning for full power. Keep heating it before starting even once it's fully broken in whenever possible. Your motors will love you for it, and last a long time :)
People often say the 7 Ports have less bottom end, but this is mainly because they don't use a strong enough clutch set up. The 7's like a reasonably late clutch. With too softer springs they will appear to be sluggish down low.
Try the 3 1.1's or 2x 1.1's and 1 x 1.0 if you haven't already. You might be pleasantly surprised.

I'm using 2 greens and 2 gold clutch springs on the losi 8 buggy and truggy. Seems to do really well. I run 2 composite shoes and 2 aluminum. I just checked the shoes on the 3 port and they are almost worn. I only have about 15 tanks on them and they are already looking beat up :/ Oh well, i have more shoes coming. I may invest in some high endurance shoes at some point. The 7 port has about 10 tanks through her now. I just couldn't hold off on the tuning. Running for 70+ minutes at 1/4-1/2 throttle was brutal. If i continue to use go engines in the future i'll probably invest in a break in bench. At least then i can set it and forget it for the first half dozen tanks. But running around in circles in your yard is just wrong ;)

Yeah, I know what you mean. Going round and round in figure eights is a little boring, but worth it in the long run. It's just one of those things I guess. If you want a long lasting and great performing motor you gotta do the hard yards at the start - bummer :cool:
The break in bench sounds like a plan. I have never used one, but they sound good. I know some people swear by them. I have sort of got used to the foiled head heat cycle method. It has worked so well on these motors for me and my customers that I don't really want to go with any other method. Maybe one day. Not very adventurous eh :cool: :D

what size venturi would you guys run on break in on a gx5r for truggy? and what size once its ready for race tune?....i got 2quarts and 2tanks through it so far!...how many tanks till they are ready for race tune?

how many shims should be on and what size for break in?....and once its broke in what shims should i run?....oh yeah i run 20% losi nitrotane!

Run it in using the standard 8mm restrictor which is fitted stock. That way you can get plenty of fuel through it during break in.
Depending on your run-in method normally 15 tanks will see it free enough to start tweaking a reasonable race tune. You will know by how willing it is to wind out. If you lean it and it starts dropping off at the top end, then it's still too tight. Just play it by ear. It will let youl know when it's ready to really go.
Run the 7mm restrictor for racing to start with. This will give you a good trade off between power and economy, then see how you go from there.
If you want more run time drop to the 6.5mm. You will still get wicked bottom end with the smaller restrictor (sometimes more actually) and just a small reduction in top end, but increased run times once you lean the motor to suit the smaller restrictor.

does the new gx5r conrod have the gotech G etched on it or is that the older1?...

can i use a novarossi turbo button on my go 7port,ive read that the go and novarossi has the same bore and stroke

I have used the Go head button on a Nova so I would think it would work the other way too.

Rex

I used to run a 7port in an 8t with king heads shoes with 2 gold and 2 silver springs, the shoes lasted forever and It NEVER struggled for bottom end:D Grizz can attest to that:D

Agama? What happened to the Xray Adrian?

Gerard.

Yeah the clutch shoes on the 7 port should be fine, i was talking about the shoes on my 3 port which is on my truggy. I may end up switching motors at some point, i'll have to wait until i can get out to the track and test them both out. The 7 port does seem to have more bottom end than the 3 port but it also has more top end which is why i figured it would be best suited for my buggy vs truggy. The 3 port has plenty of bottom end but not as much top end which is why its sitting in the truggy right now. Either way both engine are great, the 7 port was brand new in the shrink wrap when i put it in the buggy the 3 port had about a gallon or so run through it when i bought it.

Neither the new 21-0600 or the older 28-0600 rods have any marks etched on them, so I'm not sure what you have there.
Noticibly the newer 21-0600 rods have grooved ends around the small and big end bushings, whilst the older rods are plain.

Motors come standard with .5mm of shims (1 x alloy .3mm and 2 x copper .1mm), plus a .2mm run in shim included in the box, but not fitted.

Fit the additional .2mm run in shim for the first 10 tanks, then remove it.
On 20% you can run less shims. For max performance on the 20% try the .3mm alloy shim by itself.
NB: Only decrease shimming once the motor is fully run in, not before. Also if you move up in nitro% you will need to add some shims back. Check out this article for more details:

http://www.massivemods.com.au/produc...roducts_id=192