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Old 03-15-2010 | 02:58 PM
  #10261  
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MAN IM GLAD TO SEE ALL THE GOOD THINGS GO ENGINES ARE DOING. I RACE DIRT OVAL AND PUT ONE ON MY BUGGY LAST YEAR AND FINNISHED 2ED IN LOCAL POINTS SERRIES AND I WAS SO HAPPY WITH THE WAY MY ENGINE DID IVE DECIDED TO STICK ONE IN MY OFNA SPRINT CAR AND MY OFNA LATEMODEL. THE ONLY BAD THING IS THE FACT THAT IM GOING TO HAVE TO RUN OPEN LATEMODEL THIS YEAR WITH THE GO ENGINE BECAUSE THE SPEK CLASS IS ONLY 3 PORT ENGINES AND HAVE TO BE IN A CERTAN RPM RANGE AND HP RANGE AND THE GO ENGINE FAR EXCEEDS THAT, BUT IT DONT MATTER TO ME AS LONG AS I HAVE A GO. THINKING ABOUT DOING SOME OFFROADING THIS YEAR AS WELL AND WILL MOSTLIKEY GO WITH A GO ENGINE AS WELL.
I DONT CARE WHAT PEOPLE SAY THESE GO ENGINES CANT BE BEAT
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Old 03-15-2010 | 03:03 PM
  #10262  
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AND ONE MORE THING, IM STILL NEW TO THE HOBBY I THINK BUT IF THERE IS ANY TIPS OR TRICK YOU CAN GIVE ME TO HELP ME LET ME HAVE THEM
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Old 03-15-2010 | 03:42 PM
  #10263  
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Originally Posted by bigmatt
I am going to post this because I was warned and did not listen, STAY AWAY FROM RB MODS AT ALL COSTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I will take this as lesson learned [the hard way]
First of all I think I need to say something here in defense from a 13 year old.
The whole thing is his front bearing went out and made the crank go bad. When talking to Trey about it he told me the new crank would not work because of the coating on it made the pin larger. I told Matt Derosier that I would install the new TIN coated crank. I was going to but I had forgotten I told him that since it took me about 1 1/2 months to get the parts and my mind is getting a little old and I got the old style uncoated cranks in.. I told him I would send the new TIN coated crank as soon as Trey got them in stock. Plus I sent him a bunch of different engine oils, this being before he went on a rant. Meanwhile he has a whole new crank modded and front bearing I installed and a mod on the new sleeve. None of which was my fault. If I'm guilty of anything it is being forgetful. Talking to this guy was like trying to talk to a child and nothing I do would done any good. For every one of you and your few friends there are 50,000 engines out there with happy owners. I think 7 national wins and and 6 world records and countless regional wins is an achievement for the last few years. Why would I want to cheat a client out of 8.00 for the difference of the 2 cranks? Now look at it my way. I charged you 80.00 I remodified your entire engine + another crank "2 cranks", repalced your front bearing, and getting ready to send you a TIN coated crank + shipping. the crank cost me 48.00 each shipped to me, The bearing 7.50 + free oil. So as I said you paid 80.00 I have 113.50 into this engine not including my work or mod or oil or shipping and this not even being my fault. If you go through with the credit card BS as you said why should I send you out the other crank? I dare you not to run that engine I sent you and not enjoy it. Now in a childish manner I know this will have a come back after being read.

Last edited by Rick B; 03-15-2010 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 03-15-2010 | 08:19 PM
  #10264  
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Well since you want to bring it here, I went to change the rod after 2 gallons. On a 3 port rippindiculas engine made by Rick Brake of rbmods.That's all. The engine was running great. But the black coating that you coated the crank with[or the one from go-tec with a black coating, funny the one in the engine YOU made was a lot heavier coating then the one I have from go-tec. AND DON'T TELL ME YOU DID NOT COAT CRANKS BECAUSE YOU ALREADY TOLD ME YOU DO] made the end pin for the rod out of round. Then you told me I needed a psr. Which i sent you. Still don't know why I needed that. Hell I was just replacing the rod! And you stated you would replace the crank with a tin coated crank for 35.00. I get the parts back, my old psr but no crank. So I phoned you and asked what was going on with my old crank? My parts I want them back. Then you proceed to tell me that you turn the old cranks in. Okay, I assumed from that, go-tec was warrantying the cranks? And you were charging me for a new one? The one I did not get.When I asked why you did not install the new tin coated crank your response was Trey said it would not fit. I did not know Trey was running your shop or that he knew more about modding then you do. So I asked Trey if in fact he did say that to you. He did not. But said he sent you a stock crank that YOU ordered. If I knew you were charging 125.00 for sport cranks I would have had you just send my engine back. From what I can tell you sandblasted my old crank,fixed the end then called it new. Then charged me for a new one. That I did not get. Some warranty process you have. I have no Idea what you charged for anything because there is no invoice to show what you did. You just keep missing the point- MY MONEY, MY PROPERTY,YOU DO NOT TELL ME ONE THING THEN DO WHAT EVER THE HELL YOU WANT WITHOUT MY PERMISSION! I AM PAYING FOR IT NOT YOU! In our little exchange on Friday night when I called you out on this you were heading down the ole I was everything but white path. Now it's the front seal was bad, you never said anything about that when you had my engine, did you? Oh that's right you just did,news to me. Look I want my old parts,and what you promised me. Oh and make dam sure you mod the crank, You know, the one I paid you for in the first place. The reason I only called you once to settle this? I need your words for the credit card company.[email] See I am more then 13 ,much more. But I will show you how much more. You want to end this? Right here and now? Send me my so called old crank, the new modded tin coated crank, refund all the moneys except for the 35.00 that we originally agreed upon for the crank, the price to ship engine back to me. $10.00? and lets each go on our merry way. I want nothing to do with you, on any level.
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Old 03-15-2010 | 10:01 PM
  #10265  
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Your crank was not coated by me and instead of calling me you decided to bring it here not me. You were acting like a 13 year old. It was all just a oversight and I talked to Trey about the problem and asked him why he would tell me something the factory said when the GX first came out and tell you something different. Your crank had excessive wear and you sent a new piston sleeve and rod in for me to mod for you. Just calm down. I really didn't think anyone would miss a crank that is out of round. Still again wasn't my fault. As I said you and about 3 other people in this world are pissed at me and instead of call me and saying something like Hey rick can I have the bad crank back and how come you send the non-coated crank instead? I would have bent over back wards to help. I have totally thousands of engines out and mod about 200-300 engine a month and I do stay awake at night when I have 1 person mad at me for something I could have corrected. I treat my clients with the up most respect. Cheating someone out of 8.00 be fore real man, the difference between the coated and non coated crank. That crank I gave you was not stock but modified to the hilt. Now 2 things with the GO 3 port. 1 the boost ports under the side transfer ports induce to much port flooding and it makes you have to lean the engine which means less lube between the crank pin and rod. 2 when the front bearing seal goes out it lets air and dust by and gets trapped between the crank pin and rod, another reason for it to go out. I tell everyone change your front bearing ever gallon because of this. I'm still going to send you the Tin coated crank when Trey gets them in. I hate to fight or even have to post like this. It is not in my nature. I would rather help everyone. All you have to do is call and talk to me like a man, I won't bite and would probably would had bought you a new engine even if it wan't my fault just to make a fellow human being happy. You got to understand I have so many engines come through it's hard to remember everything at my age. Try not to be angry please I will take care of you on this. 1 person out of thousands world wide and it still bothers me. I did refund your money Transaction ID: 2893679535

Last edited by Rick B; 03-15-2010 at 11:13 PM.
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Old 03-15-2010 | 11:52 PM
  #10266  
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Originally Posted by Flanno
I ran my super tight 7 port yesterday in my buggy for a club day.

6.5mm venturi smooths it out ? LOL


Out of the box, 10 min before my first heat, primed fuel, loosened plug, heated engine,
kicked over, put a pinch test tune on the bottom end, put a drink can cozzi over head to keep in heat, sat idle for whole time leeding up to race (12min), 2min before my race topped up tank, put buggy on track for warm up just circulate track to check top end tune no jumping with short bursts on straights to put more heat in engine, leaned top end 2hrs in from flush, topped up tank again before hooter.
then raced and only jumped easy jumps in 1st quallifier, came in to check tank fuel ussage @ 5min mark and a splash of fuel, noticed only ussed 1/2 a tank and decided to try for full run in next quallifier with no stop.
Q2 repeated warmup as above, topped up tank before hooter and race as normal doing all jumps and ran whole race and came in still idling .

Q3 same again but now trippling our quad jump instead of double double

Quallified 6th for the final.

in the final was not only doing tripple single over the quad but now also jumping our back table top all the way to the very top flat part of our far back step up and turn down our multi step downs .

Finished 5th for the day and a HUGE grin on my face from ear to ear.

And openned a few GO ENGINES critics eye's today !!!

Ran and burnt off all fuel in engine, after run and sure to be at BDC and packed up to go home.

Still has heaps of pinch today cold so will have to repeat heating as above for it's next few outings.

NOT ONE FLAME OR BLOWN PLUG ALL DAY !!!!!
Can I ask how you or others pre-heat a tight engine out in the field, or do your pit areas over there in the USA have mains power??
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Old 03-16-2010 | 12:18 AM
  #10267  
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some tracks have power hook up for you to use and some tracks dont that when you pull out the honda generator and use it for power
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Old 03-16-2010 | 01:01 AM
  #10268  
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Originally Posted by vmlopes
Can I ask how you or others pre-heat a tight engine out in the field, or do your pit areas over there in the USA have mains power??

At LRRCC NSW Australia) we have 240V at 4 points at our pitt bench and also in 2 points at our warm up bench.

Most tracks will have 240V available somewhere.

You can if you get stuck somewhere without power, do as i have done once or twice;.

Make sure you are at BDC, remove your plug, put a few drops of after run down there, and bump box it - turn it over for a good 5min to lube and warm it up to some degree, then put fuel in your tank and repeat above untill fuel hits your carby, return crank to bottom dead centre, replace plug and crack it loose about 1/8th of a turn and fire her up, tighten plug once she is running.

tip;
Be sure your starter box is set up so your wheel spins well before your flywheel touches.
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Old 03-16-2010 | 05:55 AM
  #10269  
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Half way down the page there are 12v and 24v heat strips I use the 12v myself
draws 3.5 amps so on a 12v 7ah battery you have enough power. heats my engine from 60 to 200 in about 13 mins. I power mine right of the bump box.
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Old 03-16-2010 | 05:57 AM
  #10270  
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Sorry did not paste the link.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-tape/=68psgv
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Old 03-16-2010 | 08:28 AM
  #10271  
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Originally Posted by Rick B
Your crank was not coated by me and instead of calling me you decided to bring it here not me. You were acting like a 13 year old. It was all just a oversight and I talked to Trey about the problem and asked him why he would tell me something the factory said when the GX first came out and tell you something different. Your crank had excessive wear and you sent a new piston sleeve and rod in for me to mod for you. Just calm down. I really didn't think anyone would miss a crank that is out of round. Still again wasn't my fault. As I said you and about 3 other people in this world are pissed at me and instead of call me and saying something like Hey rick can I have the bad crank back and how come you send the non-coated crank instead? I would have bent over back wards to help. I have totally thousands of engines out and mod about 200-300 engine a month and I do stay awake at night when I have 1 person mad at me for something I could have corrected. I treat my clients with the up most respect. Cheating someone out of 8.00 be fore real man, the difference between the coated and non coated crank. That crank I gave you was not stock but modified to the hilt. Now 2 things with the GO 3 port. 1 the boost ports under the side transfer ports induce to much port flooding and it makes you have to lean the engine which means less lube between the crank pin and rod. 2 when the front bearing seal goes out it lets air and dust by and gets trapped between the crank pin and rod, another reason for it to go out. I tell everyone change your front bearing ever gallon because of this. I'm still going to send you the Tin coated crank when Trey gets them in. I hate to fight or even have to post like this. It is not in my nature. I would rather help everyone. All you have to do is call and talk to me like a man, I won't bite and would probably would had bought you a new engine even if it wan't my fault just to make a fellow human being happy. You got to understand I have so many engines come through it's hard to remember everything at my age. Try not to be angry please I will take care of you on this. 1 person out of thousands world wide and it still bothers me. I did refund your money Transaction ID: 2893679535
I wish you would have said all this when I called you. This is the first I heard of the bent crank. I do not have a machine shop or access to the equipment I would think you have, to check engine parts. I never once attacked your work, I love this engine. So Rick has done a partial refund and I must say he stands behind his product. After what has been said here I would say we have had one hell of a communication problem.
So with that said, Rick I do apologize and hope that you do except it. MATT
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Old 03-16-2010 | 10:44 AM
  #10272  
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I'm glad you guys got this worked out. I have to say that this was all a surprise to me, and sounds like miscommunication. Also, I've personally been running a modded GX-5R that rick did for me, and the thing absolutely rips. no doubt. I looked at his work when I took the engine apart and he really put's a lot of time, effort, and experience into his mods. Glad to have you on board, Rick!
T
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Old 03-16-2010 | 01:38 PM
  #10273  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
There is no ¨correct¨ venturi size, it all depends on track conditions and how much economy you want out of the motor.
The bigger the venturi (8 mm) the more power you will make, but you will get reduced run times (and probably too much power). Most guys run the 7 mm or 6.5 mm restrictors for economy and smoothness. Just tune the motor accordingly and set the EPA to match the throat size of the venturi.
Sorry to ask this question, but what is EPA?
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Old 03-16-2010 | 01:42 PM
  #10274  
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Originally Posted by DxD
Sorry to ask this question, but what is EPA?
EPA= end point adjustment....or servo travel if you prefer..you can set the max limit for travel on all but the most basic radio's..stops you burning out servos for one thing..
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Old 03-16-2010 | 04:22 PM
  #10275  
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Originally Posted by DxD
Sorry to ask this question, but what is EPA?
What remote do you run bud? I am sure one of us can tell you how to set the epa on just about any remote.
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