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-   -   Go-Tech Engines Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/177028-go-tech-engines-thread.html)

bigmatt 07-13-2009 06:55 PM

grizz, the ofna tool is fantastic. Use it with heat gun. I got my engine all together and damn if the front bearing has an air leak. called amain said that front bearings some times did leak until seated. any one ever here of that? me either so I take it back in the morning. when I put the fly wheel on it froze the bearing[front] I could barely turn crank around. took off fly wheel,rechecked every thing. still same thing. I put in old bearing every thing worked fine. Defiantly something wrong with that bearing. What is every one running for the front bearing? reg, or tko?

mthird 07-13-2009 07:09 PM

What flywheel are you using? I had the same issue when I switched from a Sirio engine to the Go. I was using a Kyosho flywheel and everything worked the first time I installed it. The next time it bound! I figured out that I needed a collet shim to move the flywheel out a touch because these engines are slightly bigger (very slightly) in diameter. The difference was the extra bit of torque I used on the second time around.

bigmatt 07-13-2009 07:19 PM


Originally Posted by mthird (Post 6063355)
What flywheel are you using? I had the same issue when I switched from a Sirio engine to the Go. I was using a Kyosho flywheel and everything worked the first time I installed it. The next time it bound! I figured out that I needed a collet shim to move the flywheel out a touch because these engines are slightly bigger (very slightly) in diameter. The difference was the extra bit of torque I used on the second time around.

jammin, with the longer go colet. there are no marks on case or fly wheel.

malik 07-13-2009 07:19 PM

Bigmatt I like the TKO but next time I want to try 1 of them new Protec bearings steel for the front its sealed on 1 side and has some wierd new kind of partial seal that they say let the bearing spin much more freely and they are only $5 for the front at A-main and for the rear I price permitting want to try the 100% ceramic rear if not TKO. I have fr and rear TKO's in my 5 port and they I have to say it seems like the mill idles much better with them. The stock bearings on GO mills are some of the best in the buisness mind you. I just like to try new stuff. When I swapped rod pin and clips I did the TKO's. My stock bearings were fine. Still have them. They are Italian made so right there tells you they are good.

bigmatt 07-13-2009 07:25 PM


Originally Posted by malik (Post 6063405)
Bigmatt I like the TKO but next time I want to try 1 of them new Protec bearings steel for the front its sealed on 1 side and has some wierd new kind of partial seal that they say let the bearing spin much more freely and they are only $5 for the front at A-main and for the rear I price permitting want to try the 100% ceramic rear if not TKO. I have fr and rear TKO's in my 5 port and they I have to say it seems like the mill idles much better with them. The stock bearings on GO mills are some of the best in the buisness mind you. I just like to try new stuff. When I swapped rod pin and clips I did the TKO's. My stock bearings were fine. Still have them. They are Italian made so right there tells you they are good.

when I did an air leak test I found some air coming out of the front bearing.Is this normal? I mean when I sealed up the engine the air needs to go some where. I was just blowing through the fuel inlet. some one let me know.

malik 07-13-2009 07:30 PM

Tag I didnt plan on leaving my wife thought she was doing me a favor by coming out there LOL. So I left as I didnt want to have to have her go home and then come all the way back out there to get me. Thats that issue we talked about before, I cant wait to get my liscens back it KILLS my racing fun in every way shape and form. Thats why I try to carpool as much as possible plus we have 4 kids and she works too. Yeah sucks to be me LOL. Let me see whats going on with my 5 port as I got the Powerhouse 3 running like a raped ape today and someone wants my PTM 5. But since I got the Donut head I maybe can help you out if not I know Chim has a few heads maybe the color you need to I think.

malik 07-13-2009 07:33 PM

Matt not sure on that 1 but I know during break in you should see some oil seepage because of the mill being really rich but after that very litte if any. I have had a leaky front bearing and it didnt affect performance which is common but eventually will get to where it does. Have you ran it?

bigmatt 07-13-2009 07:39 PM


Originally Posted by malik (Post 6063480)
Matt not sure on that 1 but I know during break in you should see some oil seepage because of the mill being really rich but after that very litte if any. I have had a leaky front bearing and it didnt affect performance which is common but eventually will get to where it does. Have you ran it?

No I took the bearing out and put the old one back in.

tagalong_74 07-13-2009 08:00 PM

well i have another go-tech motor so no big. I have two 7pts. I also just picked up an rb s7 with two gallons that will be in there. The Go will be a back up motor just because i want to try different motors.

mattwoodcraft 07-14-2009 01:26 AM

hay matt sorry to hear about your 5 port sounds like you have had sopme bad days....

dam by the sounds of things your front engine bearing was tight , the ceramic bearings i hgave been using have been tko with no lekage at all..
i have just gott new ones the answer ones fromm MM to try out ..

what i have noticed is the standard ones seem to be hit miss with leakage eather leaks alot and thay dont seat in or leak alittle then stop in my experiance but i have never had a drama with ceramics :nod:

grizz1 07-14-2009 01:45 AM

Everyone has diferent theories on ceramics. A lot of guys here run ceramics, but only the main bearing. I have heard the front ceramics don't like being shocked into life on the starter box much, which is why they only run the ceramic mains. I have never run ceramics in my off road motors so don't have any evidence of this myself. I run a main ceramic and standard front in my .12 Ninja on-road and it certainly spins over smoothly. Next bearing change I will go to ceramic in my GO's and see how they compare.

Got my 2072 pipe today at last - Yahoo :D Nice looking pipe. I tried it on a Gen 5 5 Port I am running in for another racer. I was impressed. This motor has only got 10 tanks on it and is still very tight and running quite rich. I was running the 0801 on it. When I fitted the 2072 it took on a new life, even at 10 tanks !!
The other thing is, I was trying to sneak a quick tank thru before it got dark, but it wouldn't run out of gas !! I think this new pipe is going to be very hot on my race motors :nod:

grizz1 07-14-2009 02:22 AM


Originally Posted by Babygrand48 (Post 6062624)
Ok my head hurts now from reading the last 50 pages or so. I believe I read on here(can't remember when) that someone is using fuel tubing as an o ring replacement? I have a stock 7port believe gen 4 or 5. I run on 20% with only 1 copper shim(plus button) i believe .4mm total as i recall. Are the carb settings given in these last few posts ok to start with on 20%? It seems that most of the posts refer to 30% I'm using 20% as I was told that it is easier on the engine. Is this correct, my boys and I don't drive well enough yet to need the extra power of 30%. Just looking for reliability and ease in tuning. We run OD plugs 97T but just ordered 77T's also and engine usually only gets to 190 or so.

Brian, just done some research and confirmed the shim details with Massive Mods. You should be running .3mm to .4mm of shims, plus the .3 built into the head with a med/hot plug on 20% - So either the .3 alloy shim by itself, or for a little less compression the alloy and one .1mm copper shim together.
Cheers :cool:

infernotb 07-14-2009 02:31 AM

Hey Grizz, i should have my 2072 pipe tomorrow as well, just need to decide which motor is going to benefit more from it, the 3 or 5pt. I changed the rod and pin in the 3pt as per your instructions and it all went smoothly. I also shortened the lsn at the same time (and i did find another piece of oring in the hsn jet that must have been causing those other tuning issues i was asking about before).

I would definitely recommend doing this mod. The engine just seemed to be abit sharper and i didnt have to touch the needles all day.
My 5pt with the long needle was a different story, i thought i had it tuned properly and it was going great in the heats, but when it came to the 20min final it must have been on the lean side and performance dropped off causing me to pit a few times to retune towards the end. I will be shortening this one as well for sure.

grizz1 07-14-2009 04:23 AM

Hi Tony, was talking to Paul today and he said he was sending some "Pure" fuel down to you. Didn't mention the 2072 though :D Good choice. This pipe will rock on either the 3 or the 5. Glad to hear it's all working out for you. You will be ready to kick some butt when this rain finally stops. :cool:

mattwoodcraft 07-14-2009 04:31 AM

yea i love the 2072 pipe i will be putting on 7 port to see feel the differance i like it very much on the 3 port moded :nod:


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