I am looking to get a GO for my second SC8 and am having trouble locating a good source for info and purchase.

Any help would be appreciated.

tks,
vhb

http://www.massivemods.com.au/index....cc7faae5a43aa2
take a look here, great people to deal with.

Even with the extra shim on? I wasnt able to at first, but now its much easier, I mean , it doesnt just roll over, but it doesnt take too much pressure to turn it over the TDC by hand. And realize too, that I still have the flywheel on, so its not like I'm turning the crank over with my fingers ,LOL

I have a brand new 5 port in the for sale section.

you should still need a set of channel locks to get around the flywheel to turn it over. even with the extra shim. I am coming up on 1/2 gallon on one of my 7 ports and still cannot turn flywheel by hand. I have 2 gallons on my 5port and can just get it over buy hand. basically it is considered broken in. also you didn't let the engine sit with the piston at tdc did you? If it were me I would pull head off and back plate to get a good look at the cylinder bore to make sure a piston pin clip did not pop off and is scoring your cylider wall.

180357142517,ebay trans# same thing on ebay 200.00/18.00 shipping

Thanks! Looks like I have my source....
vhb

Will do BIGMATT , thanks

I just put that up for a comparison. I would highly recommend getting a hold of mark at massive mods, or 22racer sells here in the states also. by the looks of the kit the gent from Alaska is posting looked like one advertised on massive mods sight. But I think they are out of them,not sure though. The reason I am posting this info is warranty issues. If your not concerned about warranty, well you know where to go.

Nope - no way you should be able to turn that motor over after 4 tanks - NO WAY !!! It should still be jamming your starter box solid after 10 or 15 tanks without a heat up first.
Check the wristpin clip scenario like Matt says. If thats not it, something has gone wrong or something has been done wrong for it to loose it's pinch that quick. We are not kidding when we say these engines are super tight. If you pardon the pun, you may have a sick puppy on your hands Mr Sick puppy

yeah mine at tank #10 would still cut a groove in the bump box wheel with the flywheel at tdc if I didn't get it hot enough before trying to start it.

Yeah just realise they are gen 5 .. not the new gen 5.5 and you have no warranty on ebay engines. if you want to risk it they are a bargain ..

LOL, Wouldn't that be par for the course. the 1st one I had was mfg with no shims on it at all! I didn't take it apart when it was new, so you can imagine how long that lasted, but RaceFActor, while slow to act, did replace it no charge...I took this one apart to seal it since I was having tuning issues and looked at the sleeve and piston and all looked OK. Didn't do a visual on wrist pin clips, but the sleeve looked smooth as butta. That was a few tanks ago. Been using Byrons 30% w/11% oil. Will disassemble it this eve to do a more thorough inspection.

You should never try to turn the motor over by hand especially when cold

if for some reason you want to check pinch before fully broken in find bottom dead center and turn flywheel slow when u meet resistance STOP!!! That’s how u can track the motors full break'n progress after initial break in ...every 5 tanks or so u should be able to turn fly wheel a LITTLE bit more each time u check.....


never never never ever force a cold motor over or even a warm one...just my opinion...im no guru

Rkhess is right always keep it at bdc even after break in. Especially during break in when you shut it down BDC.