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Originally Posted by bigmatt
(Post 5641183)
I can see mrfrosty's side of this. I tried getting ahold of russ jones through ofna forum/amain forum- he did answer that one, 2.5 months ago. emailed him, for at least 2 months? so I did what any free white boy would do- spend my money with who ever can give me the costumer service. massive mods, 22 racer/ hell I was looking for months for parts here in the states, whats a couple 8-10 days waiting for parts? already been waiting with no response or success. and then it comes down to the warranty issue. It will only be warranted in the country you live and you must by it in that country. who cares, I can't get parts here,how the hell am I going to get it warranted? So I see the web site is down? closed? no matter massive mods just got a new customer. as did 22 racer. got my parts from him in 3 days! I am really impressed with these engines and if it means I need to get creative in getting parts so be it. Do I think ill of russ? of course not.will I bother him for parts,help with these engines, no.
i think that it will all be back on track very soon. I was hit by the chinese NY back log too and i can just imagine trying to manage a huge distribution like the US must be mind boggling .. Just be patient things will be back on track very soon . MM |
Originally Posted by mini696
(Post 5649169)
I don't agree with the above posts saying that stock LSN is 1.5 turns in... That is way too lean on my motor.
As MM says flush on both is stock. You may need to go in on the LSN a little to get it to idle while running in. My early Gen 5 5 Port (modded) is race tuned at HSN 1/3 in from flush and LSN 1.5 - 1.75 turns in from flush and is a rocket ship :eek: If I ran it flush / flush I would be lucky to get it to run. No idea what batch of needle it's got in it. I just started flush /flush. Then went in on the LSN until it would run for break in. Slowly started leaning it in from there after 15 tanks or so of break in. Put the current settings on it after most of the pinch went at about 7 litres. |
Needle pics?
I know a while back there were pics of the long vs short needles. I didn't know there was a new long needle vs. old long needle as Grizz posted. Could we get anyone to post some images of the old/new long needle, intermediate, and short needles alongside a metric ruler/tape if possible? If you can't post images PM me and I'll post them for you. With this I think we could clear up some things for new GO owners that may have tuning issues. As stated before, STARTING WITH A CORRECT IDLE GAP IS KEY.
Travis |
I have a couple of questions about the Sport models by Go. There is a .25 and a .28 could someone tell me the performance differences? How about the reliability of the spin start system on those engines. They are three port models, do they have much on the top end? I have a New Revo and would like a .21-.25 spin stat engine for it, it is hard to find a good quality .21 engine that accepts the spin start. I would love to put a better quality .21 engine like the .21 5 port or .25 6 port if I could get it in a spin or pull start model, any advice would be appreciated!
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Just get a bump box for it and be done yo will spend more money in the long run the spinstart way trust me. And that .25 6 port would tear that revo to shreds you may want that though. LOL Any of the .21 races would fit fine performance wise the Revo isnt that heavy and its a 2 speed thats why I said that about the .25.
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Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 5650244)
I think it will depend on what batch your Gen 5 motor came from. Some of the earlier Gen 5 motors may differ from the current stock. You could have the old or new long needle, or maybe the intermediate needle that popped up for a while.
My early Gen 5 5 Port (modded) is race tuned at HSN 1/3 in from flush and LSN 1.5 - 1.75 turns in from flush and is a rocket ship :eek: If I ran it flush / flush I would be lucky to get it to run. No idea what batch of needle it's got in it. I just started flush /flush. Then went in on the LSN until it would run for break in. Slowly started leaning it in from there after 15 tanks or so of break in. Put the current settings on it after most of the pinch went at about 7 litres. Yes I agree on that. All engines we've had they just won't run at flush/flush setting. From factory the needles are both flush but again if you've run your engine and need base settings to start with you can go HSN flush LSN 1.5turns in from flush. Considering long LSN and correct idle gap your engine will fire up w/o problems. For the final race tune I agree you can fiddle with the HSN but I would not go there untill atleast the 1G mark and the additional break-in shimm removed. But again, fuel, pipe, plug, weathre all plays a role here but with above you are @ ball park to get you going. |
I have a question? how do you tell which generation go engine you have? I am interested in the different 7 and 5 ports. :weird:
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Hey Malik, thanks for the response! I am thinkng about a starterbox and a .21 but thought I could get adequate performance out of t he .25 sport model and save the $ on the starterbox for other hopups. Thanks for your opinion, I am still thinking about which way to go!
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5 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by AZTman
(Post 5652038)
I know a while back there were pics of the long vs short needles. I didn't know there was a new long needle vs. old long needle as Grizz posted. Could we get anyone to post some images of the old/new long needle, intermediate, and short needles alongside a metric ruler/tape if possible? If you can't post images PM me and I'll post them for you. With this I think we could clear up some things for new GO owners that may have tuning issues. As stated before, STARTING WITH A CORRECT IDLE GAP IS KEY.
Travis
Originally Posted by bigmatt
(Post 5653449)
I have a question? how do you tell which generation go engine you have? I am interested in the different 7 and 5 ports. :weird:
OK Guys - have downloaded some photos for you. Firstly the needles. As you can see the Short LSN is quite bull nosed. It measures 1.44". The Long LSN is quite tapered and comes to a fine point. It is 1.6" long, so quite a difference. The intermediate needle which I don't have one of is more like the Long LSN but probably around 1.55" long at a guess, but you get the picture. Gen 4 vs Gen 5. Most of the changes are internal, but you can tell the difference by the cooling heads and the carb ends where the HSN screws in. Gen 4 has a plain cooling head with GO and 21 inscribed. The end of the carb is all alloy coloured where the HSN screws in. Gen 5 has more writing on the cooling head with Go Engine, Racing, and some other artwork on it. The end of the carb where the HSN screws in is black, with and alloy end cap, as opposed to the all alloy look of the Gen 4. Hope that helps. |
Originally Posted by hudler
(Post 5653643)
Hey Malik, thanks for the response! I am thinkng about a starterbox and a .21 but thought I could get adequate performance out of t he .25 sport model and save the $ on the starterbox for other hopups. Thanks for your opinion, I am still thinking about which way to go!
But IMO I would go for the starter box set up, it eliminates the possibility of having problems with the rotor start down the track. |
I'm pretty sure I saw a .25 sport model somewhere, maybe t he guy had a .28 and thought it was a .25, I will have to look it up. Anyway anybody with experience with the sport line and Go rotostarter, shoot me your advice!
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I have seen the .25 sport listed also but I don't think Racefactor sells them. I do know Racefactor has some .25 6 port Race motors with a rotostart. The sport motors are awes0me for the price.
Rex |
Alright I'm very frustrated with the GO carb. I can't get the temps below 250 and have anything but bogging. I've got the hsn slightly in from flush (1/2 turn) and the lsn is about 1 turn in. Any more and I get no power any less and the temps go thru the roof! I was thinking of puting a Nova carb on, will this work? Help please? Thanks in advance
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Originally Posted by backyardracer
(Post 5655822)
Alright I'm very frustrated with the GO carb. I can't get the temps below 250 and have anything but bogging. I've got the hsn slightly in from flush (1/2 turn) and the lsn is about 1 turn in. Any more and I get no power any less and the temps go thru the roof! I was thinking of puting a Nova carb on, will this work? Help please? Thanks in advance
250 is average temp .. |
Originally Posted by hudler
(Post 5653643)
Hey Malik, thanks for the response! I am thinkng about a starterbox and a .21 but thought I could get adequate performance out of t he .25 sport model and save the $ on the starterbox for other hopups. Thanks for your opinion, I am still thinking about which way to go!
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