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Head Shims
Hi,
I am new to this forum but do have a gen5 7port. People say that the motor comes shimmed for 30% and also comes with one extra shim for break in. I have 3 shims currently installed (not sure if 1 copper and 2 alum or the other way around.) What should it be for 30%?? |
the shims that are installed in the engine are for 30% the extra shim is only for break in as it helps to reduce the stress on the engine while everthing is till tight.
once you've run the engine in about (1.5 gallons)remove the copper breakin shim and your good to go for 30% nitro. hope this answers your question Adrian:tire: |
Originally Posted by drfmf1
(Post 4853174)
Thanks for the input - it's greatly appreciated.
I do have the break-in shim fitted. I had fully charged stick packs and a fully charged glow igniter as well. I guess just more patience is all it's going to take! If I can't get it to roll over tonight on the losi box I'll switch over to the ofna one and give that a try. Any advice on the carb "wiggle" ? It's very small, like .5mm either direction, but definitely noticible. If it's not going to affect performance at all I'm not going to worry about it. I did a quick leak test and everything was ok there, so, probably no big deal. Thanks again, Dave 1. add the breakin shim 2.check that you needle settings are about 1.5 turns in from flush on the LSN and about .5 turns in from flush 3. remove you glow plug and put some after run oil into the chamber and a small amount through the carb then slowly turn your flywheel from side to side to make sure that the moving parts all have a slight coating. 4. loosin up the glow plug slightly 5.prime the engine by blowing through the tank pressure line until you can see the fuel entering the carb 6.wrap your cooling head in ali foil and heat up using a heat gun to around 220 to 250 F 7.get you starter box up to full speed before engaging the flywheel on the starter wheel follow these steps and you should be good to go as for the carb wiggle as long as there is not leak problem you should be fine but keep an eye on it and if you not happy with it contact racefactor if your in the states and russel and the guys will sort you out I'm sure. also just to add to your 3port post In my experience with go engine the Gen 4 3pts have the smallest tuning window of all the Go range (but when you get it right man they go well) I found that by changing the LSN to the short version helped alot and the Gen 5 engines have a revised crank among other things that make them far easier to run adrian:tire: |
Hey Adrian, how's it going buddy :) Are you racing this Sunday with the flying 808 ?
Been away in Aus for a week or so without my cars, so looking forward to a play on Sunday big time :D |
I have a 3 port sport, but how do you know what "Gen" it is 4 or 5?
It has the blue head. |
Shims
So this means that the 2-aluminum shims should be installed for 30%??
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One Copper one Alm.
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Originally Posted by Akhor
(Post 4854981)
I have a 3 port sport, but how do you know what "Gen" it is 4 or 5?
It has the blue head. Someone will correct me if I am wrong, but I think the "Gen4" "Gen5" only applies to the Pro motors, ie 3 port RSpec, 5 port, 7 port etc. The easiest way to tell the difference with these motors is the logo's inscribed on the cooling heads. The Gen5 motors have more writing and the new style Go logo. Internally they are quite different with the newer Gen 5 models having a new style carb, new crank, new style cooling head and some minor changes to the crankcase design. Cheers :cool: |
The RTR or Sport range of Go Engines are all Gen 3.
The Pro Range of Go Engines are the ones that are continually developed. We have already designed the Gen 6 and 7 engines. The new Gen 6 is being tested as we speak and should come out in the new year if we are happy with it. MM |
Originally Posted by MassiveMods
(Post 4857128)
The RTR or Sport range of Go Engines are all Gen 3.
The Pro Range of Go Engines are the ones that are continually developed. We have already designed the Gen 6 and 7 engines. The new Gen 6 is being tested as we speak and should come out in the new year if we are happy with it. MM Can't wait to see what the next gen motors are goin to be like especially when I'm still running a gen1 7pt (and a gen4 3r):nod: you could always send a gen6 over for me to test for you:lol: :Dmy gen5 5pt should be on it's way over to you soon to work you magic on can't wait for it already:batman: Adrian |
Originally Posted by dhopkins8
(Post 4855845)
So this means that the 2-aluminum shims should be installed for 30%??
Oops someone already posted:blush: |
Originally Posted by RETRO RC
(Post 4857293)
Hey Mark
Can't wait to see what the next gen motors are goin to be like especially when I'm still running a gen1 7pt (and a gen4 3r):nod: you could always send a gen6 over for me to test for you:lol: :Dmy gen5 5pt should be on it's way over to you soon to work you magic on can't wait for it already:batman: Adrian You know Paul got one of my new 8 port proto type piston and sleeve ... im really keen to hear how its going for him ... and yes bro when you send your baby over ill be givng it the royal gen 6 treatment don you worry :nod: |
Looking for a head button for a Go-5port anyone have one for sale???
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Hello.
I was very satisfied with my Go 7 port turbo, till today. I was driving my car on our local track and suddenly engine stopped running. Something was broken. I thought it was a rod, but I was wrong. Piston was broken, after only 10 liters of fuel! Here is a photo: http://www4.slikomat.com/08/0921/vlh-broken.jpg Now I need to buy a new piston. I was looking at internet shops and they only sell piston & sleeve together. Can I buy somewhere only a piston??? |
Only piston sleeve sets from what I know or can order. It is well worth it anyways for the price compared to other motors if that same thing has happened.
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