I think it is cheaper to rebuild these engine. A new piston and sleeve is not as expensive as Novarossi or OS. I think 22racer can rebuild your engine. He is also an authorized Go Tech deler. If you need a new mill or want him to rebuild your current one contact him.

O ok ya i have the 3 port .21 standard plug i guess thats the sport, i was thinking about the 3 port .21 turbo plug cause its not that much more money than the standard plug. Thanks for the info.

I've been using 1 sliver and 1 thin brass shim on all the .21 Go's.
Thanks Tree, yes I do rebuild motors, I charge $30.00 to go through a motor, this includes, pinching the sleeve to regain compression if needed, replacing bearings if they need it or upgrading to ceramic, cleaning and inspecting the motor, especially the crank and rod wear. If the motor is not worth rebuilding I would not charge you anything. All parts needed would be extra, a Go rod is only $18.69.
I do not just rebuild Go's I will work on anything, .12-up to .32's.
I also mod motors, I've been experimenting for quite a while now and have looked at several other modded motors and am confident enough to do it for customers. I only charge $40.00 for a mod or $20.00 with a rebuild.

Rex

Can i use a 3port race piston/sleeve into a 5 port block?

thanks!

I just got a new 5 port and have a couple of questions:

1) Any tricks to get it to turn over? My Losi box will not turn it over even after getting it to 240 with the heat gun. I don't really want to have to move pins around on my truggy box to see if that will work, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Does an engine really need that much pinch?

2) The carb has a small "wiggle" to it even when the pinch bolt is tight. When I got the engine the carb was really tight into the case. I took the pinch bolt all the way out and still had to heat the case just to get the carb to break loose and come out so I could seal everything up. Will this play affect the way the engine runs?

I don't know, I really want to like the GO engines, a lot of people here seem to have good success with them, but, it seems the carb issues are still around even with the latest generation. I have a 3 port race as well, that sits on the shelf at home because I just cant get it tuned, serious carb probs. I don't have any tuning issues at all with any of my other engines (V-spec, Falcon, Nova's) I really don't want to buy a new carb for it because at that point I should have just went ahead and bought the OS, RB, Nova...

Any advice would be much appreciated. I know they can be good mills, I've had brief glimpses of what they could do when the 3 port was actully working and was quite pleased, but, chasing a tune all day long can take some of the fun out of going to the track.

Thanks!

Funny thing these Go-tech's... You'll love them as much as you hate them.:rolleyes:

Hi everybody, I have a litle problem with my go 7port .21 engine.
I run it in a Mugen MBX5R. Uses os P3 plugs no turbo top
When I kome to the track and starts it run a tank fine, but after it stops and I refuel it's werry dificult to start. Anybody that has had this problem??

How much compression you got? If the motor is on its way out it will be hard to start when it is hot.

Seems like the compression is good, uses 0,56mm shim and 25% fuel

i would say try a different box to get it started. as for your 3 port does it have short or long lsn? i switched to the short needle and have had great luck since so maybe try that and see. good luck!!;)

Kurt
Welcome to the GO and welcome to RCtech. I will see you the next time I make it to Hobby town!!
Robert

I had to heat my 5 port to about 260 degrees when I first tried starting it just to get it to turn over. I used a duratrax box with 12v cell and twin 550 motors. It just turned and stopped at TDC. After 10 - 15 min it started to slowly turn over but still would not start. I think I spent about 1 to 1.5 hours before I got it to start. It was a real PITA!! Maybe a stronger starter box would have been easier. I would just try the truggy box to at least break it in until you get it to start. You need some patience with these motors - it will eventually start. Also, make sure your glow igniter is fully charged and doesn't die while trying to start it. I used a power panel with 12v lead acid battery so I had plenty of juice.

Make sure you have the run in shim fitted (makes things a lot easier).
Loosen the glow plug slightly to ease the compression, this will make starting a lot easier too.
The Go's are super tight, but if you heat it up and loosen the plug you should not have that much trouble :)

For those guys having trouble tuning the newer Go's (long LSN models), go to page 131 on this thread and read the posts by Massive Mods and Retro RC. There is nothing wrong with the carbs or motors, it's just a tuning thing. The long LSN makes these motors tune slightly different to a lot of other main stream motors. Set the HSN and tune with the LSN as suggested in these posts and you will be sweet.

Thanks for the input - it's greatly appreciated.

I do have the break-in shim fitted. I had fully charged stick packs and a fully charged glow igniter as well. I guess just more patience is all it's going to take!

If I can't get it to roll over tonight on the losi box I'll switch over to the ofna one and give that a try.

Any advice on the carb "wiggle" ? It's very small, like .5mm either direction, but definitely noticible. If it's not going to affect performance at all I'm not going to worry about it. I did a quick leak test and everything was ok there, so, probably no big deal.

Thanks again,
Dave

make sure its not running too hot, may be vapor lock.