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Quote:

Originally Posted by sachoppers (Post 4542087)

Was this on a new engine?

also how did the needle (the problem 1) look?

yes, a brand new 08 3 Port R-Spec, we started noticing the bogging since in the tank 4 or 5 of break in, we thought it was some clutch or tune issues but nope, it turned out to be the needle, the o-wring didn't look bad, I don't know what's wrong with that needle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sachoppers (Post 4542314)

I wish i could 4 sure..

Skeller u also running the 3p rspec. right?
Is that the engine your talking about,the shims?

Yes I'm running an '08 PTM 3R....so far it's been gold. Got just a touch over a gallon on it.

It seems that when you tell someone you going to do a wot break in ,there like what the f$#@ r u crazy.
if you can just get past the fact that the engine will never even get close to top rpm.
Then it makes it easryer to unstand what your doing.

Preheated sleeve and wot with max oil going threw the engine heat cycled by using a heat gun and fuel then fuel to cool it down.

I took me a few reads on this method to figure out what was being done.
and why

Quote:

Originally Posted by zJatoRad (Post 4542401)

cool..thx

Quote:

Originally Posted by skeller (Post 4542402)

Yes I'm running an '08 PTM 3R....so far it's been gold. Got just a touch over a gallon on it.

nice .
when i get the full gal. threw mine ill ck and measure it for the correct shim setting.

like i have said before, people have the ways they like and there are alot of methods that get the job done, my way works good on my engine's. The only problem i saw with wot was the lack of inconsistant load, even though the engine is not turning any rpm they are jumping up and down radicaly puting alot of strain on the rod, and yes all that fuel will cool the motor, but even at race tune the motor won't run well at 190 to 200, i like to intrduce temps that it will operate at and cool down from at tank 1, and the wot tryouts i did, left the compression feeling like mush. but again, everyone has there own way, and thats cool

That is very true the rpms are very erractic.during wot .
This is my first engine doing this method ..I wanted to give it a try.
So only time and perfomace will tell.
And i did keep the temp. at 215-230.at wot.that i made sure of..but who knows..for all i know this method is crap :)

thinking of something to say Shane:sneaky: lol

i got to run the go 2047 with my .25 6port finally and all i can say is WOW it ran great all the way around and im looking for another pipe if anyone has one they want to sell or get rid of im open to another go 2047 thnx will g

brian i sent my motor to you friday thnx will g

can't hold a tune

Quote:

Originally Posted by zJatoRad (Post 4542401)

Quote:

Originally Posted by soccerlaw (Post 4541805)

Had the exact same issues today with my 3 port R as the guy described below. Two very experienced tuners got it running amazingly. Let it sit for about an hour (no change in outside temp during this time) and it suddenly has about 65% top end speed and very erratic behavior. What could it be that is making it lose its tune like this? Air leaks, the carb? I'm still very new at this, but the people at my track are not and its even got them stumped.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tree (Post 4541824)

I recently been having the same issue with my 5 port. It was running fine the day before still a little rich since I only had about 3/4 of a gallon through it. The next day I couldn't get it to hold a tune. Once I got it to idle decent, the engine would lean bog. I richend up the HSN until it was sticking out pass flush. I finally returned the needles to factory break-in settings and started over trying to tune. What needles are people using to help correct this issue? I don't want to spend $70.00 to $80.00 on an OS carb. The whole reason I bought this engine was for its cost and performance. Any help with what seems to be a lean bog issue will be appreciated. Thanks

Hey Guys,

I also have the race spec 3 port which has the same issues stated above.
I had problems with my high end and low end changing tune after a few laps.
After a wasted day at the track, I visited the LHS and picked up new o-rings and replaced the HSN o-ring. This corrected my issue with the HSN. :D

I am still struggling with the LSN as it seems to stay over-rich no matter what I do. I plan on replacing the LSN o-ring also, in hopes of finally correcting my problem with this capable engine.

Brian,

Thanks for responding to my break-in question. I will try your method with the 5 port I have coming in the mail.

Thanks again.

i stick to my method

2 tanks idle
2 tanks extremely rich on flat surface aka streets in front of house:lol:
3-4 tanks with hour leaner still only going 1/4 throttle
2 tanks a little leaner half throttle(longer inputs before resting engine)
bring temps up from the 170 they are to about 200 or so leaving a little rich and run up to about 11 tanks that way then run all out lol..btw my track design is a LTO format just like an oval but much shorter of course

so far this has worked well for me

Quote:

Originally Posted by will g (Post 4543496)

Quote:

Originally Posted by kilana (Post 4544212)

Brian,

Thanks for responding to my break-in question. I will try your method with the 5 port I have coming in the mail.

Thanks again.

Will, i got it today:nod:

Kilana, anytime

*****************ANNOUNCMENT********************** *********

The very next shipment of GO engines and from here on out will have the first version LSN, i just got off the phone with Racefactor and the engines that are on the way will now cary this needle.

Is the 2047 the best pipe for the 3p rspec aswell?
In a truggy?
Im using the dynamite 053 with a 14t bell .