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Old 05-28-2008 | 03:48 AM
  #2926  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
Some of the Go carbs are a little loose due to the pinch bolt (the black inserts) being a little long. Take the pinch bolt out and grind a few thou off each of the ends where they touch in the middle when installed. This will allow the pinch bolt to grip the carb throat tighter. Reinstall with some sealant around the top of the carb neck (around the black O Ring) and nip up tight - not too tight or you will damage the carb neck !!
The brown coloured O Ring in the bottom of the carb insert of the crankcase is recessed into the crankcase. When you install the carb you need to push the carb down firmly onto this O Ring and tighten the pinch bolt with the carb held firmly in this position in order to get a good seal.
I have just ground the pinch bolt on my spare 5 port engine which had slight play in the carb and it is tight as now. You may want to check the brown coloured lower O Ring and replace it. You will find when the carb moves from side to side it chews this O Ring up a bit. Hope this helps
Grizz1,

Thanks so much for the help. I got the carb out last night and can see exactly what you mean by needing to grind the ends of the pinch pieces to tighten it up a bit. I also found the problem. The older design carb (not sure if the new ones have fixed this or not) has 4 plastic nubs that are molded into the metal sleeve to stop it from spinning. I barely used any force at all (hand wiggle) to try and loosen the carb, but with the pinch bolts holding the outer metal sleeve tight, it broke those nubs free from the plastic carb body and now the metal sleeve rotates on the plastic housing. Racefactor told me to simply JB weld the metal sleeve onto the plastic and then clean it up and put it back in. The lower oring did get chewed up a bit from the twisting action. Can anybody let me know what part number that is or if another companies oring will fit fine?

Thanks again to everyone for all the assistance!
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Old 05-28-2008 | 05:20 AM
  #2927  
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Originally Posted by cherokee180c
Grizz1,

Thanks so much for the help. I got the carb out last night and can see exactly what you mean by needing to grind the ends of the pinch pieces to tighten it up a bit. I also found the problem. The older design carb (not sure if the new ones have fixed this or not) has 4 plastic nubs that are molded into the metal sleeve to stop it from spinning. I barely used any force at all (hand wiggle) to try and loosen the carb, but with the pinch bolts holding the outer metal sleeve tight, it broke those nubs free from the plastic carb body and now the metal sleeve rotates on the plastic housing. Racefactor told me to simply JB weld the metal sleeve onto the plastic and then clean it up and put it back in. The lower oring did get chewed up a bit from the twisting action. Can anybody let me know what part number that is or if another companies oring will fit fine?

Thanks again to everyone for all the assistance!
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/10603

here is the part but amain is out of stock of it. sry.
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Old 05-28-2008 | 07:09 AM
  #2928  
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anyone have the 0801 pipe instock?
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Old 05-28-2008 | 10:14 AM
  #2929  
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Thanks Djballen
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Old 05-28-2008 | 12:53 PM
  #2930  
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ok... i am putting a 7 port on the break-in stand this weekend.
you talked me into it Brian!

whats been up man?
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Old 05-28-2008 | 01:14 PM
  #2931  
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Originally Posted by Miller1
anyone have the 0801 pipe instock?
I can order one for you if you are interested, PM me. I just order some 2047's today along with some motors. I can add it to the order.
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Old 05-28-2008 | 05:45 PM
  #2932  
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Originally Posted by TMizzle
ok... i am putting a 7 port on the break-in stand this weekend.
you talked me into it Brian!

whats been up man?
invest in some heavy duty ear plugs, it sounds like i have a jet engine in the shop everytime i wind one up lol, not much man just stayin busy, how bout you?
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Old 05-28-2008 | 10:18 PM
  #2933  
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Originally Posted by TMizzle
ok... i am putting a 7 port on the break-in stand this weekend.
you talked me into it Brian!

whats been up man?


You will race that in Venezuela ? lol !!! ...
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Old 05-29-2008 | 12:43 AM
  #2934  
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Default Go 0801

Where can i get a Go 0801 pipe? Search all over the net with no luck.
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Old 05-29-2008 | 09:47 AM
  #2935  
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how much these pipes(0801) cost i want one and will this work good on the 3port race .21 engine thnx will g
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Old 05-29-2008 | 10:39 AM
  #2936  
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Guys I can get them for you. I just have to order them I have 2047's coming in now but not the ones you want. You both got PM's
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Old 05-29-2008 | 12:50 PM
  #2937  
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Smile Go 7 port advise

Hi Guys
I have a go 7 port just a few questions.
How can you tell if it is a 08 spec.
I took my head off to install a turbo head and i did not see any shims at all.
I am using the nosram plugs which are the same as the lrp number 8
i am using a hong nor 2047 pipe with a longer header pipe
A few weekends ago it was very hot weather outside and my engine was getting to a 120c dont no what it is in f how can i reduce the temp of the engine but if possible not loosing too much power.
Thanks
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Old 05-29-2008 | 01:51 PM
  #2938  
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The 08 models have the G logo with a diamond around it. The earlier models all used the Go logo with the O as a tire.
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Old 05-29-2008 | 02:06 PM
  #2939  
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Originally Posted by Quietman
Hi Guys
I have a go 7 port just a few questions.
How can you tell if it is a 08 spec.
I took my head off to install a turbo head and i did not see any shims at all.
I am using the nosram plugs which are the same as the lrp number 8
i am using a hong nor 2047 pipe with a longer header pipe
A few weekends ago it was very hot weather outside and my engine was getting to a 120c dont no what it is in f how can i reduce the temp of the engine but if possible not loosing too much power.
Thanks
If it has no shimms i would not be running it, that motor should be real good around 220 to 260
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Old 05-29-2008 | 06:41 PM
  #2940  
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mugenb46, ygpm
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