2LikesGo-Tech Engines Thread
05-28-2008, 03:48 AM
#2926
Tech Apprentice
Some of the Go carbs are a little loose due to the pinch bolt (the black inserts) being a little long. Take the pinch bolt out and grind a few thou off each of the ends where they touch in the middle when installed. This will allow the pinch bolt to grip the carb throat tighter. Reinstall with some sealant around the top of the carb neck (around the black O Ring) and nip up tight - not too tight or you will damage the carb neck !!
The brown coloured O Ring in the bottom of the carb insert of the crankcase is recessed into the crankcase. When you install the carb you need to push the carb down firmly onto this O Ring and tighten the pinch bolt with the carb held firmly in this position in order to get a good seal.
I have just ground the pinch bolt on my spare 5 port engine which had slight play in the carb and it is tight as now. You may want to check the brown coloured lower O Ring and replace it. You will find when the carb moves from side to side it chews this O Ring up a bit. Hope this helps
The brown coloured O Ring in the bottom of the carb insert of the crankcase is recessed into the crankcase. When you install the carb you need to push the carb down firmly onto this O Ring and tighten the pinch bolt with the carb held firmly in this position in order to get a good seal.
I have just ground the pinch bolt on my spare 5 port engine which had slight play in the carb and it is tight as now. You may want to check the brown coloured lower O Ring and replace it. You will find when the carb moves from side to side it chews this O Ring up a bit. Hope this helps
Thanks so much for the help. I got the carb out last night and can see exactly what you mean by needing to grind the ends of the pinch pieces to tighten it up a bit. I also found the problem. The older design carb (not sure if the new ones have fixed this or not) has 4 plastic nubs that are molded into the metal sleeve to stop it from spinning. I barely used any force at all (hand wiggle) to try and loosen the carb, but with the pinch bolts holding the outer metal sleeve tight, it broke those nubs free from the plastic carb body and now the metal sleeve rotates on the plastic housing. Racefactor told me to simply JB weld the metal sleeve onto the plastic and then clean it up and put it back in. The lower oring did get chewed up a bit from the twisting action. Can anybody let me know what part number that is or if another companies oring will fit fine?
Thanks again to everyone for all the assistance!
05-28-2008, 05:20 AM
#2927
Grizz1,
Thanks so much for the help. I got the carb out last night and can see exactly what you mean by needing to grind the ends of the pinch pieces to tighten it up a bit. I also found the problem. The older design carb (not sure if the new ones have fixed this or not) has 4 plastic nubs that are molded into the metal sleeve to stop it from spinning. I barely used any force at all (hand wiggle) to try and loosen the carb, but with the pinch bolts holding the outer metal sleeve tight, it broke those nubs free from the plastic carb body and now the metal sleeve rotates on the plastic housing. Racefactor told me to simply JB weld the metal sleeve onto the plastic and then clean it up and put it back in. The lower oring did get chewed up a bit from the twisting action. Can anybody let me know what part number that is or if another companies oring will fit fine?
Thanks again to everyone for all the assistance!
Thanks so much for the help. I got the carb out last night and can see exactly what you mean by needing to grind the ends of the pinch pieces to tighten it up a bit. I also found the problem. The older design carb (not sure if the new ones have fixed this or not) has 4 plastic nubs that are molded into the metal sleeve to stop it from spinning. I barely used any force at all (hand wiggle) to try and loosen the carb, but with the pinch bolts holding the outer metal sleeve tight, it broke those nubs free from the plastic carb body and now the metal sleeve rotates on the plastic housing. Racefactor told me to simply JB weld the metal sleeve onto the plastic and then clean it up and put it back in. The lower oring did get chewed up a bit from the twisting action. Can anybody let me know what part number that is or if another companies oring will fit fine?
Thanks again to everyone for all the assistance!
here is the part but amain is out of stock of it. sry.
05-28-2008, 07:09 AM
#2928
anyone have the 0801 pipe instock?
05-28-2008, 10:14 AM
#2929
Tech Apprentice
re
Thanks Djballen
05-28-2008, 12:53 PM
#2930
ok... i am putting a 7 port on the break-in stand this weekend.
you talked me into it Brian!
whats been up man?
you talked me into it Brian!
whats been up man?
05-29-2008, 12:43 AM
#2934
Go 0801
Where can i get a Go 0801 pipe? Search all over the net with no luck.
05-29-2008, 12:50 PM
#2937
Tech Regular
Go 7 port advise
Hi Guys
I have a go 7 port just a few questions.
How can you tell if it is a 08 spec.
I took my head off to install a turbo head and i did not see any shims at all.
I am using the nosram plugs which are the same as the lrp number 8
i am using a hong nor 2047 pipe with a longer header pipe
A few weekends ago it was very hot weather outside and my engine was getting to a 120c dont no what it is in f how can i reduce the temp of the engine but if possible not loosing too much power.
Thanks
I have a go 7 port just a few questions.
How can you tell if it is a 08 spec.
I took my head off to install a turbo head and i did not see any shims at all.
I am using the nosram plugs which are the same as the lrp number 8
i am using a hong nor 2047 pipe with a longer header pipe
A few weekends ago it was very hot weather outside and my engine was getting to a 120c dont no what it is in f how can i reduce the temp of the engine but if possible not loosing too much power.
Thanks
05-29-2008, 02:06 PM
#2939
Hi Guys
I have a go 7 port just a few questions.
How can you tell if it is a 08 spec.
I took my head off to install a turbo head and i did not see any shims at all.
I am using the nosram plugs which are the same as the lrp number 8
i am using a hong nor 2047 pipe with a longer header pipe
A few weekends ago it was very hot weather outside and my engine was getting to a 120c dont no what it is in f how can i reduce the temp of the engine but if possible not loosing too much power.
Thanks
I have a go 7 port just a few questions.
How can you tell if it is a 08 spec.
I took my head off to install a turbo head and i did not see any shims at all.
I am using the nosram plugs which are the same as the lrp number 8
i am using a hong nor 2047 pipe with a longer header pipe
A few weekends ago it was very hot weather outside and my engine was getting to a 120c dont no what it is in f how can i reduce the temp of the engine but if possible not loosing too much power.
Thanks
05-29-2008, 06:41 PM
#2940
mugenb46, ygpm