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Old 05-26-2008, 11:57 PM
  #2881  
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Hi nitro neil, mugenb46 will be able to give you all the details regarding those two motors, but basically the 3 port sport is just that, a sports motor for general use. The 3 port R Spec is a true racing motor. The porting on the R Spec will be completely different as will the crank I would say.
If you are going to be racing a .21 in a buggy, go for the 3 port R or the 7 port. In a truggy go for the .21 5 port (it is a beast down low) or the .25 6 port. All of these motors run awsome with the Dynamite 086 pipe with the exception of the 7 port which likes the Dynamite 053 pipe. I am running the 7 port with 053 pipe in my buggy and it is an excellent combination.
There is also a new Go 0801 pipe on the market which sounds like it might be the goods. Which ever Go-Tech engine you buy you will be happy. These engines offer great performance and superb value for money
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Old 05-27-2008, 03:57 AM
  #2882  
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Originally Posted by Vigilante212
The carb has an oring at the bottom its really hard to pull out just keep working it out it should pop loose eventually.
Just keep wiggling it back and fourth and pulling hard? Also that doesn't tell me what I need to do to get it to lock down again once I put it back in, as it will not tighten up now.

Thanks
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Old 05-27-2008, 05:07 AM
  #2883  
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Originally Posted by cherokee180c
Just keep wiggling it back and fourth and pulling hard? Also that doesn't tell me what I need to do to get it to lock down again once I put it back in, as it will not tighten up now.

Thanks

You probably have a bit too long tightening screw on it. Grind a bit off from the end and you should be fine. Make sure not to over tighten
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Old 05-27-2008, 06:01 AM
  #2884  
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Originally Posted by cherokee180c
I have a problem with my carb on my 7 port turbo. I tried to pull it out to seal it with permatex, but when I unscrewed the pinch bolt, the carb would not pull straight out. I then started to twist it back and fourth, but it still never came out. Now it is loose, but only twists and does not wiggle side to side, even when I tighten up the pinch bolt. How can I get the carb out and then get it to tighten up properly. Right now I have had to put silicone all around it to try and stop it from twisting.

I couldnt get mine out as well, i had to remove the black clamp things in the crankcase where the screw goes into, screw the bolt in a little from the wrong side and pull it and the black thing will come out then push the other one out, then it came out easy
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Old 05-27-2008, 06:09 AM
  #2885  
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Originally Posted by cherokee180c
Just keep wiggling it back and fourth and pulling hard? Also that doesn't tell me what I need to do to get it to lock down again once I put it back in, as it will not tighten up now.

Thanks
If you cant get it to tighten back down you probably dont have it seated all the way.
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Old 05-27-2008, 06:23 AM
  #2886  
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nitro neil ygpm
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Old 05-27-2008, 06:28 AM
  #2887  
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ok does anyone know who has the 3 port race engine in stock. i need to pay with credit card
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Old 05-27-2008, 06:58 AM
  #2888  
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Thanks for the help guys. Is the black insert that the screw goes into two separate pieces? If so, I will try to screw the screw into the opposite side as 2cool suggests and then pull out the inserts. After I get it out, what do I need to do to get it to lock down properly again after reassembly? I can barely see the top of the oring, is it possible that it is still slightly up as Vigilante212 suggests? I need to fix this issue for a race this weekend.

Thanks again.
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Old 05-27-2008, 07:21 AM
  #2889  
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Neil, check with Pro Twister Mods. Brian sold me mines. Great guy to deal with. He is mugenb46 on here. If he doesnt have any he can get you one dropped shipped right from Racefactor if they have it in stock.
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Old 05-27-2008, 08:38 AM
  #2890  
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i got the 3 port .21 race motor what pipe is best besides the go pipe. i have the dyn 053 and looking for another now for this motor thnx will g
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Old 05-27-2008, 09:18 AM
  #2891  
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Everyone says the dyn 083 for both the 3 and 5 port. The 7 port uses the 053.
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Old 05-27-2008, 10:52 AM
  #2892  
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How much more torque do you guys think the .21 3-port will have over the 7 of 5 port. I am thinking of getting a 3-port for my Caster K8T to replace my Axial .28RR. How do you think it compares to the Axial? I am afraid the 3-port will be too much power down low for my driving. I like to be smooth and not have a motor make power like a lightswitch when you just tap the throttle.
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Old 05-27-2008, 01:07 PM
  #2893  
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i am lookin for a vtec engine for my buggy. maybe a b16 or b18. not looking for the sohc vtec.
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Old 05-27-2008, 01:28 PM
  #2894  
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Originally Posted by vnmsgt
How much more torque do you guys think the .21 3-port will have over the 7 of 5 port. I am thinking of getting a 3-port for my Caster K8T to replace my Axial .28RR. How do you think it compares to the Axial? I am afraid the 3-port will be too much power down low for my driving. I like to be smooth and not have a motor make power like a lightswitch when you just tap the throttle.
The 5 port has the most low end torque, followed by the 7 port. The 3 port R from what I hear is very smooth on the bottom end (depending on pipe and clutch set up of course). Most people running truggy go with the 5 port and 086 pipe. This is plenty of power for any truggy. If you want a smoother power band down low in the truggy go for the 7 port with 053. Even though it's smoother on the bottom end it still has heaps of grunt for a truggy.
3 port R is better suited to buggy, and the 7 port is also a sweet buggy motor if running a medium to tight track.
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Old 05-27-2008, 01:32 PM
  #2895  
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Where do you think the 6 port .25 fits in compared to the 5 port turbo for truggy?
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