dragonracing

iTrader: (7)

yeah its got blinky mode. or boost disable. the less i have to spend the better. im gonna need spare parts (i can allready hear it hitting the pipes lol).

HeliYogi

iTrader: (17)

Some images I've been taking the past two years as homage to on road / F-1 and TCS - enjoy!

Slide show:
http://s721.photobucket.com/user/Hel...rcos%20Wanless

PS Are you in the photo?

dragonracing

iTrader: (7)

just checked roar website for the esc my car has. im good. its on the approval list. must be blinking blue or solid blue per what version i have. so im good. just gotta track down a motor.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

The Flow Worksteam is a great ESC for all the sedan classes. You got lucky there! Someone at the track will know how to put it in blinky mode.

Go back through the last couple pages and PM Brian Bodine if you want a 17.5, as he had some for sale. If you want a 25.5, I've got a spare I can loan you, but I don't think I want to sell it.

What servo is in the car?

Also, make sure you you've got a 30x30mm fan for the motor. Yeah Racing is a good option, or there are other spendier ones out there. Reflex Racing makes a nice fan mount.

Also, make sure you've got an appropriate spur and pinion. You'll want around 3.7-4.0 Final drive for 17.5, or 3.2-3.6 for 25.5.

-Mike

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

As for bodies, for VTA Syle, I'd suggest the protoform javelin, protoform camaro, or HPI camaro with the spoiler. There's also a new style mustang that's pretty good. For GT style in scale spec, just pick something that you like, but be mindful of whether it's super low in the shock tower area.

-Mike

Logi Maker

iTrader: (56)

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

I've been running the Flow in Scale Spec, it's definitely legal and works well. If you don't figure it out by race night, I can help you put it in blinky mode. Also, with 25.5 you don't need a fan on the ESC, but as Mike said, definitely put one on the motor. And for weight reasons, don't go crazy with 12ga wires, you definitely don't need anything that thick for this class. The legal weight minimum is 1450g, so double check that you meet that with the car ready to race (battery in, wheels and body on).

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Is Randy Prouse on RcTech?

-Mike

Samwise

iTrader: (1)

Hi,

So I found out on Facebook today that I won an ORCA TX 17.5 motor from a hobby store in Hawaii! Pretty cool. I race mod sedan only these days, so I'm hoping to sell the ORCA locally. It should arrive in 1 to 3 days, so I should be able to bring it to the next CC race on the 28th.

The motor is new, the box opened and motor tested by Eric Anderson. Asking $80. PM me if interested!

Peace,
Sam

bradshawkyle

iTrader: (3)

I have a Novak Ballistic 25.5 (fixed endbell timing), gently used, never overheated for $25 if you like. I ran it for a season in Scale Spec. PM me and I'll work out a way to get it to you.

dragonracing

iTrader: (7)

so i now have the car in my hot hands. tc6 Reflex Racing lowered shock towers, Tamiya Dual Joint front axles, Tamiya Race Factory shocks, X-ray springs, and PSM top deck. Reedy Mach 2 13.5 new with one race day. LRP Flow Works Edition with equally limited use, and an AE DS1015 servo.

it came with a protoform mazda speed 6 light weight body still in package. im not going to use it so i may put it up for a trade. part number 1487-11. im not really a mazda fan anyhow. its nicely done up and the wiring is super clean and ill keep it that way. ill post up a pic of the chassis in a little bit.

dragonracing

iTrader: (7)

after inspecting the car some more it has a yeah racing fan on it. whats some good links for parts and upgrades. the hobby shop up here doesnt carry onroad stuff at all. or whats a good local shop for parts in the north end?
does anybody bring parts and supplies to the track for sale?

PutAwayWet

iTrader: (1)

Upgrades?

I'm thinking, going by what you describe, that upgrades may not be a priority. Get a 25.5 motor, a big pinion. some tires, paint a body and you'll be good to go.

For spares, get the minimum usual: c-hubs, knuckles, a set of arms, and rear uprights. Being AE, all of that should set you back $20. Maybe a spur in case you strip the one you've got.

Get it on the track and work on these three things: camber, droop, and sauce. And have fun, of course. Always have fun

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Todd speaks the truth. Hobbytown in redmond should have associated parts and usually has VTA tires and x-patterns in stock. By the way, stay away from chrome rims, the tires don't stay glued. As for upgrades, it sounds like the car already has everything you'd want. *maybe* a front gear diff would be good if you have trouble driving with a front spool.

Kody (that's his username) is also a great source for parts and supplies, and he brings all his wares to the track. PM him ahead of time, and he can order whatever he doesn't stock.

-Mike

dragonracing

iTrader: (7)

ok. hobbytown redmond huh. i totally forgot about them. i rarely ever get to redmond. lol. and i know kody. when he was a young lad...he raced at my track (bear creek raceway) thats where he started his illustrious racing career. ill go get me same spares and im gonna order that new 71 ta body. does it matter what rims you use? or do they have to be the vintage rims? and ill stay away from the chrome (they can work but you have to remove the chrome so the glue will stick. same deal as the styrene models back in the day.