PutAwayWet

iTrader: (1)

The TA05 comes in two different front suspension configurations. The standard, original is also typical of other touring cars. The front shocks are upright, connecting to the lower suspension arm and a shock tower. The IFS suspension is an inboard, laydown configuration where the dampers connect to a cantilever arm and are laid down more or less parallel with the chassis. It's distinctive. You would know the difference.

There are Tamiya bodies that are low across the hood that will only work with the IFS front suspension. Just about every HPI body works with either setup, except for the Zonda maybe. That one is really low, too. Your M3 body will be fine with either. It's a good lid.

encore75

iTrader: (26)

Here you go... regular vs. IFS (and how to convert from regular to IFS, if you wanted to)

The M3 body will be fine with the TA05 (both regular and IFS suspensions).

sneako

iTrader: (7)

After my last post I hit up Google and saw the difference. Maybe I should have done that before my initial post! My TA05 is not an IFS version.

Thanks guys for the clarification and answering my question regarding the M3 body.

jubilee

iTrader: (37)

Dear SRCR Hangar 30 Race Program,

I miss you.

Love,
Team Tekin Shmekin

Kody

iTrader: (9)

Get a room you two!

Slapmaster6000

iTrader: (16)

Sitting at Bill's table always did make me slightly uncomfortable.

jubilee

iTrader: (37)

Don't make me bust out the Journey lyrics.

gwhiz

iTrader: (1)

Free Bird!!!

mdowney

iTrader: (21)

I just picked up an Xray T3, which I plan to run at Hangar 30 this season, and I want to start getting comfortable with it out at the abandoned playground by my house.

It came with an 84T spur and I picked up a Tekin RSPro/21.5 combo for it. I need to pick up a pinion for playing around until I get out to the track and start learning all of the optimal combos. What should I use while I practice (I picked up a bunch of little orange cones used for soccer practice so I can make a practice course).

Also - should I get 64P or 48P pinions? Sounds like the 48's are more durable but the 64's are more flexible for fine tuning.

Thanks,
Mike

Skruger

iTrader: (16)

Start with a 38 tooth pinion for a final drive ratio of 4.2:1
Dont use any timing boost ot Turbo
I would use pinions from 38 to 42 tooth, for that Motor.

48 pitch is easy'r to adjust and is less prone to stripping.
64 pitch is better for indoors where fine tuning is needed.
Patrick

rknott

iTrader: (6)

I was considering picking up a 21.5 as well for Scale Spec, but was waiting for word from the competition committee. Was concerned 21.5 my be dropped in favor of 25.5. Another option for us intermediate guys might be a 'sportsman' class in which case you would need a 17.5.

As for the 64 or 48 I can't really help you out much. I went with 64 from the beginning and never looked back. I haven't had major problems picking up little rocks in street in front of my house with my 64p pinions, and have since graduated from that anyway. Have never tried 48.

mdowney

iTrader: (21)

Thanks! I picked up a 40T/64P pinion at RC Hobbies today (they didn't have 35-39 in stock) and it doesn't fit with the stock 84T/48P spur that came with the T3. The teeth on the pinion appear to be too small. Any thoughts?

I'm going to try using my 16T pinion with an 8.5 BL motor that I have. I'm just so eager to try this car out.

Any suggestions?

Logi Maker

iTrader: (56)

Don't drive it in the playgound.

oldrcr

iTrader: (46)

was talking to Bill today when I ran into him at FW, and we both were really looking forward to when racing will be starting up again back at the hanger.

I guess the lack of sun this summer will do that to whats left of a car racers brain cells.

-Alex

Wes Briscoe

iTrader: (7)

You need to use the same pitch pinion with spur, so if you bought a 64 pitch pinion the car must have a 64 tooth spur.

The gear "pitch" is the count of teeth per inch, so a 64 cannot mesh with a 48 pitch. Must be te same pitch to mesh together.