Team Magic G4
05-05-2009, 05:46 AM
Blis, thanks for the info, its been a while since I posted, I believe the problem was either due to using mugen thrust bearings or the end play was too great,(at.4mm) I'm now running .1 end play and getting my thrust bearings from http://www.smallparts.com.au/
To date i've run approx 4Liters of fuel without a bearing failure.
Also, thought i'd share a great tip I got last week when running some practice laps...
One of the club members was doing some maintenance on the track... and noticed that the inside rear wheel was unloading under power exiting the corners, from the drivers stand all I could see and hear was the car under performing exiting corners... Tip was to run a thicker rear diff oil to combat the unloading. I'm pleased to report that after changing from 7000wt to 30000wt rear diff oil i've been able to minimize the wheel spin and greatly improve the corner exit and acceleration...
To date i've run approx 4Liters of fuel without a bearing failure.
Also, thought i'd share a great tip I got last week when running some practice laps...
One of the club members was doing some maintenance on the track... and noticed that the inside rear wheel was unloading under power exiting the corners, from the drivers stand all I could see and hear was the car under performing exiting corners... Tip was to run a thicker rear diff oil to combat the unloading. I'm pleased to report that after changing from 7000wt to 30000wt rear diff oil i've been able to minimize the wheel spin and greatly improve the corner exit and acceleration...
Not enough end play, but too much as I found out will devour spurs. We are not losing any thrust bearings, I do pull down clutches regularly, grease bearings (every time), check gaps. Running red everything with no weights.
It's gonna expand when it gets hot, and it's going to get hot, ensure clutch/bell gap is free and then do the end play.I prefer solid washers, like thrustbearing washers. Shims wear and mangle. use only for packing.
Or.. your thrustbearings are crappy, I buy the TM ones. Pay a little more, they are good.
It's gonna expand when it gets hot, and it's going to get hot, ensure clutch/bell gap is free and then do the end play.I prefer solid washers, like thrustbearing washers. Shims wear and mangle. use only for packing.
Or.. your thrustbearings are crappy, I buy the TM ones. Pay a little more, they are good.
05-05-2009, 07:28 AM
Quick update for all the G4Rs pilots. I ran this past weekend at the first round of the Midwest Series in Toledo, Ohio. This is the same track that will be hosting the ROAR on road nationals later this year.
The car ran very well all weekend and I qualified P4 in the A final. After a clean start for everyone I ran the 30 mins. without a problem and ended up P2! A little more work on my driving and setup and I should have pace to finish at the front. I'm hoping to post a setup here in a few days.
The 2 speed issue is strange. I set my grub screws so that the drum won't turn and then back them off 1/8 turn so the drum spins freely. That seems to be the ideal amount of gap for consistent shifting. Be sure to check the one way hub for first gear also. After it gets some wear it can groove up slightly and not let first gear disengage sometimes.
Socko
The car ran very well all weekend and I qualified P4 in the A final. After a clean start for everyone I ran the 30 mins. without a problem and ended up P2! A little more work on my driving and setup and I should have pace to finish at the front. I'm hoping to post a setup here in a few days.
The 2 speed issue is strange. I set my grub screws so that the drum won't turn and then back them off 1/8 turn so the drum spins freely. That seems to be the ideal amount of gap for consistent shifting. Be sure to check the one way hub for first gear also. After it gets some wear it can groove up slightly and not let first gear disengage sometimes.
Socko
05-05-2009, 02:08 PM
A .4mm end play is too much, that's what was killing your thrust bearings. It shouldn't matter what brand they are as long as they are the same size
05-05-2009, 06:39 PM
First pictures and video of Dario Ballestri testing the car in Italy....it's coming soon....actually Dario wiil be racing the Euros with iy in July...
AFM
http://www.automodellismo5colli.com/...uova-g4-2.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ86FP0VolA
AFM
http://www.automodellismo5colli.com/...uova-g4-2.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ86FP0VolA
05-05-2009, 09:07 PM
as for me, initially i only option the original shoe cam to k-factory steel shoe cam,shim any 2nd speed free play, locktite and fully lock the gub screws then back out 1/8 turn. never strip any gears but in the end i strip my 1st 2nd speed spur. when i check back, the 2nd speed housing bearing was shaky.change both bearings and both spurs last me months.
hope this help
hope this help
05-06-2009, 12:42 AM
one thing came to mind: check the 2speed shaft for freeplay.
you wouldn't want too much free play; i gotta shim mine. there was abit too much play for my liking and now it's only about 0.1mm of play left. you can't shim till no freeplay; else it'll bind.
you wouldn't want too much free play; i gotta shim mine. there was abit too much play for my liking and now it's only about 0.1mm of play left. you can't shim till no freeplay; else it'll bind.
05-06-2009, 03:47 AM
First pictures and video of Dario Ballestri testing the car in Italy....it's coming soon....actually Dario wiil be racing the Euros with iy in July...
AFM
http://www.automodellismo5colli.com/...uova-g4-2.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ86FP0VolA
AFM
http://www.automodellismo5colli.com/...uova-g4-2.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ86FP0VolA
05-06-2009, 05:54 AM
forgot to mention about binding, thanks keavze
about the 2nd speed freeplay, i've seen most G4 version(except +Evo) have this problem. my team mate told me it was because of the A+C support installed on the +evo and most probably wear on the rear side pulley.
some racers here told me, it is a wrong move from Kyosho to TM chassis. IMHO, small details wont hurt me
about the 2nd speed freeplay, i've seen most G4 version(except +Evo) have this problem. my team mate told me it was because of the A+C support installed on the +evo and most probably wear on the rear side pulley.
some racers here told me, it is a wrong move from Kyosho to TM chassis. IMHO, small details wont hurt me
05-06-2009, 06:10 AM
great video there ASIL - the new Testing of the TMG4 II looking good on track......
05-06-2009, 09:17 AM
the car looks sweet and handle great, would love to test drive it once its out....
05-10-2009, 12:08 PM
Price please!!!
Yes!! I want this car does anyone know the price of this car? or who I can contact to get it?
05-10-2009, 12:29 PM
Yeah the G4Rs is a great car and so is my new G4+EVO. I also recommend this cars, I can also recommend the RRR or the Xray but I believe all this cars are at the same level.
05-10-2009, 01:15 PM
its not out yet. that is just the prototype....
05-10-2009, 06:07 PM
Ok thank you, I just got an email from Wolf hobbies and they said the car will be available by the end of May. I ask them to email me when they get it ,I will post pictures as soon as I get the car. I am also looking for a low priced STS S12X3 I have seen this engine in action in my track and it rocks only problem is the price is a bit high guy on the track told me $220.
05-11-2009, 01:46 AM
end of may...
that is fast.... 
that is fast....