British Menace

Try comming down on rear diff' oil. Say 10,000WT.

Important though that you change one thing at a time.

All the best.
British Menace

keavze

yup, did think of that...
will try one thing at a time, no worries.

thanks.

Kodak Hodak

iTrader: (10)

Hello All TM G4 crew, popped in to say hello to my fellow friends, Patto jnr, SerpantD, Gansei and many more....

Jus caught up with some of you at the South Australia State Nationals... well done Patto jnr!!!

Well i am off to see the world in 1 week, then hope to be back to rc racing when i get back.......

speak soon and happy RC'ING

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

hey man, great to catch up , even if it was brief. was a crazy weekend, no time to scratch a thing. well do have a safe trip dude. and pics man, plenty of pics

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

if your rear diff oil is too thick, you will not get the car to Push (understeer) it will over steer. dropping the diff oil to 10K will probably make this worse.
seeing your setup, you have too much rear grip. soft rear bar and hard front bar. swap them around, run hard rear bar, and soft front bar, then see the different result it gives you.

keavze

okie, will try the bars 1st...easier than changing diff oil!

British Menace

Sorry Keavze. I saw overseer in your post and focused on that........... Paul's (Pattojnr) right. Comming down on diff' WT will probably make things worst for you.

Some things to try with your oversteering problem......

Reduce the amount of front droop (EG: Go to 1.5 or 2mm droop from the 1mm your running now)
Stiffen the rear role bar.
Try going up on rear diff WT.....try 30,000WT?
Reduce the amount of rear toe in your running. Try 2 or 1.5 Degrees. You'll know if you've gone too far on this because your car will start to spin out as you exit/accelerate out of a corner.

Remember though, one thing at a time....always tempting to do more

Regards,
British Menace

British Menace

PS. Must be getting bad eyes maybe......lol

ALG

What shore tyres are you using? I use harder on the rear.
wheel base? try going long wheel base.
May be you can move your rear wing "in" or cut 2mm of it.
front droop to 0mm

have fun and keep tunning

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

A+++ service from TM!

i would just like to mention that on Thursday May 8th, I placed an order from Team Magic in Tiawan for 2 r/c bodies and a lightweight battery pack, I choose the slower shipping which was pricey ( $24, but understandable from tiawan), anyways the shipping time was listed as 2 weeks with no tracking, well today Monday May 12th I received the package here in the USA, both bodies and the battery, all within 4 days and over a weekend from tiawan, all I have to say is GREAT job TM, I will be ordering from you again, because even though shipping is pricey, thats how much I would pay for express shipping 3-5 days in the States.

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

I am trying to sell my g4s on ebay I wanted $200 for it and these bids are maxxing out at $94 wtf!

$94 for a barely used g4s? anyone here wanna give me $170 for it? its yours...


seriously is $200 to much to ask for a barely used $390 pro kit.

British Menace

Unfortunately it is too much.......
It's a problem I know but used /2nd hand cars, especially pro race cars just don't fetch a good enough price at all.
With the new cheap cars like the JS out at $200, brand new! It takes it out of the used car market.
Doesn't help you I know but I would consider keeping the car as a spare car, motor break in car or just as spares for your race car.

This is exactly the reason I still have parts from my old G4E type, EVO, Mongoose and so on. You just can't sell the car's once used.

Sorry not to be able to help you on this one.

Regards,

British Menace

Rick Vessell

iTrader: (10)

Menace,

You have a PM sir.

Socko

dnitro

My G4s roller, with a few spare parts, sold on ebay for $151 US last week. That is typical of what you can sell these race cars for. Even used MTX4 or RRR will fetch this much. You get more bang for your buck if you remove the electronics / motor and sell as a roller.

I still have another one with plenty of parts to last me the season or two.

BM,

Good job!!! That is interesting how you don't use a rear sway bar. Lots of people are clamoring for the new rear end because they can use the new sway bar layout. I guess the 35S fronts balances the no sway bar set-up.

I used to remove the rear sway bar to get more rear grip, at the expense of steering. Now I run it at 90 degrees, with harder front tires.

Good luck

British Menace

dnitro,
Hey hows things?

Yes I ran without the rear sway bar although as I managed to get more grip out of the car and I was also getting used to the track and hence driving harder..... I could have maybe used some rear sway bar on?! Not sure but in the end I was getting a considerable amout of role from the rear even though I kept the roll centre quite high with running I think, 4mm (maybe 5...lol) of shims on the rear top link.

The +1.5 degree of toe out at the front gave plenty of turn in and the front droop, or lack there-of (I think I ran too little front droop for the bumpyness of the track) and the front spool gave plenty of pull around the corners.

For saying there wasn't a huge amount of traction out there, the car hooked up really good.

British Menace