Team Magic G4
02-25-2009, 12:50 AM
Most probably
But i would empty them and put 100k up front and 10k-30k in the rear depending on traction levels where you race.
Also i have two questions: 1) How do you guys set up your ride height. I have set up wheels that are 65mm in diameter but when i set up on them the ride height is over 10mm
Should i use the the size tyres that i will run with? But if i do that wont the ride height change as the tyres are getting smaller
2) Can someone clear up what happens when using different holes in mounting the rear camber links. For example: there are two vertical rows of three holes. What would happen when you move the link in or out apart from making the link longer? I understand what happens when you move it up or down
But i would empty them and put 100k up front and 10k-30k in the rear depending on traction levels where you race.Also i have two questions: 1) How do you guys set up your ride height. I have set up wheels that are 65mm in diameter but when i set up on them the ride height is over 10mm
Should i use the the size tyres that i will run with? But if i do that wont the ride height change as the tyres are getting smaller2) Can someone clear up what happens when using different holes in mounting the rear camber links. For example: there are two vertical rows of three holes. What would happen when you move the link in or out apart from making the link longer? I understand what happens when you move it up or down
each hole changes the length of the link. a long link (inner hole) will give you less camber rise when the suspension is compressed. the outer hole (shorter link) will give you more camber rise. so when the chassis bottoms out with the shorter link you will see a change in camber gain. this will effect how much static camber used on the setup station as to how your tyres will wear. so for a short link you wil need less camber on the setup station to make your tyres wear like they would with a longer link. depending on how you have your suspension setup ( Hard or Soft, roll centers high or low) depends on the length of link. a hard setup with high roll centers will generally feel better with the shorter link, the suspension travels less and the gain in camber will generally help with grip. a soft setup with roll, then the suspension will be working easier and the need for a big gain in camber will be reduced. overall the middle hole will see you well. abviously the up and down changes your roll centers which effects how the car reacts to change of direction.
02-25-2009, 12:56 AM
02-25-2009, 03:17 AM
02-25-2009, 05:13 AM
02-25-2009, 05:26 AM
i think what he means is to shorten the width of the front tires from lets say from 200mm to 198mm not the front to back wheelbase
02-25-2009, 05:36 AM
02-25-2009, 05:47 AM
02-25-2009, 10:33 AM
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (2)
hey thanks for the advice i will probably do that. besides the front diff appears to be drooling a little and building it myself would probably be the best idea.
02-25-2009, 11:51 AM
02-26-2009, 12:04 AM
I've never played with the front "wheel base". If it works better than track width then i will try it next time
Yeah, If they are leaking then i would change the gasket aswell just to be sure. I've had new cars where the diffs had no gaskets at all and leaked everywhere untill i opened them up and put one in whilst changing the fluid
Thanks for clearing that up Paul. So when and why would i want to cut my tyres with camber. Does that work on the same principles where you can have less static camber because the tyres have camber cut into them or am i totally off track. I've never understood why you would need to cut tyres with camber
and leaked everywhere untill i opened them up and put one in whilst changing the fluidStyles, ......
each hole changes the length of the link. a long link (inner hole) will give you less camber rise when the suspension is compressed. the outer hole (shorter link) will give you more camber rise. so when the chassis bottoms out with the shorter link you will see a change in camber gain. this will effect how much static camber used on the setup station as to how your tyres will wear. so for a short link you wil need less camber on the setup station to make your tyres wear like they would with a longer link. depending on how you have your suspension setup ( Hard or Soft, roll centers high or low) depends on the length of link. a hard setup with high roll centers will generally feel better with the shorter link, the suspension travels less and the gain in camber will generally help with grip. a soft setup with roll, then the suspension will be working easier and the need for a big gain in camber will be reduced. overall the middle hole will see you well. abviously the up and down changes your roll centers which effects how the car reacts to change of direction.
each hole changes the length of the link. a long link (inner hole) will give you less camber rise when the suspension is compressed. the outer hole (shorter link) will give you more camber rise. so when the chassis bottoms out with the shorter link you will see a change in camber gain. this will effect how much static camber used on the setup station as to how your tyres will wear. so for a short link you wil need less camber on the setup station to make your tyres wear like they would with a longer link. depending on how you have your suspension setup ( Hard or Soft, roll centers high or low) depends on the length of link. a hard setup with high roll centers will generally feel better with the shorter link, the suspension travels less and the gain in camber will generally help with grip. a soft setup with roll, then the suspension will be working easier and the need for a big gain in camber will be reduced. overall the middle hole will see you well. abviously the up and down changes your roll centers which effects how the car reacts to change of direction.
02-26-2009, 12:42 AM
Styles, cutting cambers on tyres wont effect how much camber you have to run. if you dont run enough camber you will actually wear the tyre flat. with tourer you only need a slight coning, say 1 deg. anything more and you may premeturely wear out your faom to plastic on the inside. but you still need to run enough camber on the car to maintain the cut. i dont cone my tyres when i true them, i get the cambers to wear in some coning. the link effects the camber rise, so it increases the camber as the suspension compresses. this is better suited to higher traction tracks where your setup is quite hard, hence the suspension doesnt work as much travel as a softer setup, then you need some more camber rise.
02-26-2009, 06:02 AM
Sweet, i've never cut them with it either but i thought well if it's there to use then there must be a reason for it.
How do you guys set up your ride height. I have set up wheels that are 65mm in diameter but when i set up on them the ride height is over 10mm Should i use the the size tyres that i will run with? But if i do that wont the ride height change as the tyres are getting smaller
I'm starting to sound like a newbie again
How do you guys set up your ride height. I have set up wheels that are 65mm in diameter but when i set up on them the ride height is over 10mm Should i use the the size tyres that i will run with? But if i do that wont the ride height change as the tyres are getting smaller
I'm starting to sound like a newbie again
02-26-2009, 06:34 AM
most foams at maximum diameter are mainly 64mm. when using the setup station, i cut a set of new foams to what i want to start with. say 62 rear and 61 fronts. i setup the ride hieght to those tyres. then use the setup station after the hieght has been set. if you use a setup wheel at 65mm, set your ride hieght to 6 or 7mm then when you put on your tyres it really would be less than that ride hieght. so use the size tyres your going to use. but dont use your setup wheels to set your ride hieght then change it to suit the tyres your going to be using. all your cambers and droop will then change and make the setup station a waste of time. try to use a set of old foams trued so there is about 1mm of foam left. use these tyres to setup a minimum of 3mm ride hieght. so in a long main you will have a high ride hieght, but when your just about out of tyres you will not be dragging on the chassis everywhere.
02-26-2009, 06:49 AM
anyone wanna buy a g4rs BRAND SPANKING NEW with battery pack built never ran!
$350 shipped
$350 shipped
02-26-2009, 06:05 PM
most foams at maximum diameter are mainly 64mm. when using the setup station, i cut a set of new foams to what i want to start with. say 62 rear and 61 fronts. i setup the ride hieght to those tyres. then use the setup station after the hieght has been set. if you use a setup wheel at 65mm, set your ride hieght to 6 or 7mm then when you put on your tyres it really would be less than that ride hieght. so use the size tyres your going to use. but dont use your setup wheels to set your ride hieght then change it to suit the tyres your going to be using. all your cambers and droop will then change and make the setup station a waste of time. try to use a set of old foams trued so there is about 1mm of foam left. use these tyres to setup a minimum of 3mm ride hieght. so in a long main you will have a high ride hieght, but when your just about out of tyres you will not be dragging on the chassis everywhere.
Hmmmmm very tempting