revo523

iTrader: (8)

Thanks!

D Man

iTrader: (1)

revo - i would just set the front at 198mm try to even out the left and right using the pillow balls, steering bell centered and go from there , even better if you have a setup station good luck

Sp Racer

iTrader: (12)

Having the fortune of being able to regularly race against a couple of world class drivers at our Aussie tracks ( Peter Jovanovic & Jessie Davis), I can tell you that all the difference is made in the first 10-15 feet out of every corner.

Top end speed means very little, it's how quickly you can get there

p.s. 2 stroke engines thrive on rpm

revo523

iTrader: (8)

I have a set station. and the front is already at 198mm i just see a big difference in length between left and right turnbuckles and will like to do it by the book specially since i have a g4js and it came factory built.

D Man

iTrader: (1)

sub trim your radio to where the servo horn is as verticle as it can be, then adjust the servo link to where the steering bell is centered ,making sure that it has the same travel booth ways and if it is still un even big time then your steering block pivot ball ajustment is not the same length.

revo523

iTrader: (8)

Well thats the thing if i turn to my right the right will turns alot more then the left wheel so i took off the turnbuckles and thats when i notice that one turnbuckle was way longer then the other one.

freestyles

iTrader: (14)

With it on the set up station centre the bell crank, servo horn all in the middle of it's range, then i would make the toe angles the same left to right. Then take it off and check your steering throw left to right, it should be pretty close to equal, if not i would go back through the build process and see if something is not right. But that's probably just me

Have you got your track width even left to right because if not this will play a big part in your problem. I reckon if i take my steering links off they will not be exactly equal but still very close.

Hope this helped.

revo523

iTrader: (8)

Yeah my front width is 198 front i just need to adjust my steering turnbuckles.

D Man

iTrader: (1)

lets start over first things first most important ..radio= subtrim to center (zero) , epa 100% both L and R, place servo horn as close as posible to 90 degree (verticle) of the servo, use the subtrim if necessary to make the horn go verticle, next adjust the link that goes to the servo horn to the steering bell crank to center the bell crank , then you should have equal throw both directions and adjust your turn buckles from there...

anthony_ling

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys, i've been running with a front diff setup since I got the kit, After i've seen the new G4+ EVO (only comes with the spool)
I thought I would test out some different setups with the G4S..

here is what I learnt:

The stock G4S kit isn't easy to swap from the diff to spool/oneway... as you have to take apart the front end.. If i was doing this everyday I'd be wanting the speedshot front end option or the G4RS G4+ as they have improved accessability to the diff.
(but i'm sure most of you already knew that)

When running the oneway you will need to lower your breaking force (I was using the transmitter to adjust it) too much break and you'll be doing 720 degree spins.. :0

When using the spool don't forget to give yourself some more steering on the transmitter, initially when using the spool I found that it was really lacking steering... simply adjusting the End point on the TX sorted it..

In the end I went with the spool...

i'm looking forward to a good 2009 season.. still running the G4S yeah!

Gen

iTrader: (13)

love em yeah

British Menace

I run a spool prety much all the time with my G4 S
I find it faster although it can be tiring if your in a long final as there seams to be more stick work and you have to drive the car more aggressively to get the best (Time wise) from the car.

British Menace

casimirsa

From my experience this is a problem with rear wheel toe-in!
You can setup a car 100% on the setup station, but when on the track you need to do finer adjustments.

The rule of thumb is as follow:

When you break hard in a straight line and the cars swings out to the right you either have to much traction on the left or to little on the right. The opposite obviously applies for breaking out to the left.

I found that giving less toe on the side that has more traction works the best!

MiamizFinest

iTrader: (37)

Hey whats up guys, im planning on geting a G4 for a speed project i wanna do and plan on useing a 21 size motor like i did with my older HPI racer 2's but before i drop the money into it id like to ask 2 questions if you guys dont mind


could some one DO ME THE HUGE FAVOR of takeing 3 pics of the motor stock motor mounts for me??? i need one from the top, one from the side, and one from the bottom could any one help me out please??? also the shaft where the 2speed sits on, how thick is it?? 5MM or 6MM??

Any help would be great, lastly is there anything WEAK on this car out of the box?? from the pics its looks great but is there anything needed to change right out of the box?

anthony_ling

iTrader: (2)

Hey MiamizFinest,

its not what you asked for, but a good start.. check out this link to the Kfactory site... this is the G4S (kit) engine mount... i'm not sure about the RTR and RTR lola parts..

http://www.kfactoryracing.com/produc...4136&pageNum=1

Good luck with your project.. .let us know how it goes. !