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Old 06-16-2008, 04:29 AM   #9391
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are you running the G4RS ? then try roll centers at the front and rear. and sway bars. try front lower inner roll center on the Speedshot front, flat swaybar, On the rear, try inner middle top arm and 3mm shim on the hub, and a hard rear swaybar.
with the wheelbase, i always run the rear as short as it can go. gets the car to rotate better.

Sir,


* are you running the G4RS - i have the g4+

* try front lower inner roll center on the Speedshot front - Roll center is on the low for the front

* flat swaybar, On the rear, - Im on this also

* try inner middle top arm and 3mm shim on the hub - Ok.. will find shims to try this out.

* hard rear swaybar. - atm its on flat, ill try to do a vertival

* with the wheelbase, i always run the rear as short as it can go. gets the car to rotate better. - im at 260mm atm, will try to do a shorter wheelbase.


- on another note.. i dont have the sway bars on the front (i discon it), i found it hard to turn with swaybars on front.

- my droop on the front is 2mm and 3mm on the rear. also.


Will try things 1 at a time..

How about the diff? should i stick with 10wt? or should this be my last move?
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Old 06-16-2008, 08:03 AM   #9392
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Sir,


* are you running the G4RS - i have the g4+

* try front lower inner roll center on the Speedshot front - Roll center is on the low for the front

* flat swaybar, On the rear, - Im on this also

* try inner middle top arm and 3mm shim on the hub - Ok.. will find shims to try this out.

* hard rear swaybar. - atm its on flat, ill try to do a vertival

* with the wheelbase, i always run the rear as short as it can go. gets the car to rotate better. - im at 260mm atm, will try to do a shorter wheelbase.


- on another note.. i dont have the sway bars on the front (i discon it), i found it hard to turn with swaybars on front.

- my droop on the front is 2mm and 3mm on the rear. also.


Will try things 1 at a time..

How about the diff? should i stick with 10wt? or should this be my last move?
you have edited my quote. ill refrase this.
Front sway bar, Flat
Rear Sway bar, hard, Verticle.
i have travelled to a few different tracks in the last year, and 10K diff fluid seems to be the best all round starting point. but this is for my driving and how i like my car, everyone is different. but yes 10K is ok . Droop i tend to use 0 front and 3-4 rear. the G4+ has a 4mm chassis. one thing to try is to remove the screws on the X brace to the radio tray. this will give you more steering. i find the 4mm chassis too stiff and only really suited for high traction tracks.
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Old 06-16-2008, 11:02 AM   #9393
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Default Team Magic G4 to hit Byron Nitro challenge "Enforce" !

The upcomming,
Byron Fuels Nitro Challenge
being held at,
Leisure Hours Raceway, Joliet, Illinois. 27,28,29th June 2008
(www.leisurehoursraceway.com


is going to have a good contigient of G4 owners driving their cars.
All models are going to be represented including,
G4+ "Limited Edition"
G4 Mongoose
G4S Race
and the new G4RS 2008 Edition Competition car


The new American Importers,
Wolf Hobbies (www.wolfhobbies.com
Will be represented there with Wolf himself possibly making it to the venue!

With all TM G4 cars supported and driven at all standards. This will be a race with a great turnout for the G4 car at a very prestigeous raceing event and great venue.

Good luck to all G4 drivers who are going and the best of luck. Have fun.

Any G4 owners who would like to join in the fun, come watch or drive. We'll have a great time. See you there.

Regards,
British Menace
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Old 06-16-2008, 11:24 AM   #9394
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Tested the car with socko yesterday (with limited sun) @ LHR for the upcoming Byron Race....G4RS does handle great (just as good as our previous ride Serpent 720 and MTX4R).....Socko Speed II is a Rocket even with everything stock....My NS12 is alittle bit low on top high but I don't expect much on a $150 motor. I have use a stock P-Dub bumper and custom made a G4RS hard foam bumper to save some front arms.

However, 1 thing I will do this week is relocate my receiver from the stock location (in front of the engine and above the chassis behind the tank). After my engine getting warm, my receiver is getting glitchy and want to do WOT...good thing I do have fail safe within. But I have tried at least 5 times...receiver getting weird ONLY after engine is warm up. Not to mention, the T6 chassis is SUPER HOT, hotter then most of the RC that I have own...temped 120 degree F plus....and since the receiver is direct above the HOT chassis...that might be the problem. I have to say, I really like the stock receiver location and the lead wire/plug for the receiver pack...really clean and nice, but if that will give me a DNF, nothing matters...

Socko has made me a custom receiver mount (carbon fiber) for the RS that I will use (see pic below)...hopefully that will solve my reciever problem. I will mount the receiver underneath and the AMB above.

My current setup is everything per manual except front springs using the light blueish (or that is green?) spring from TM on front. Diff are all spec setting. 40s all around. Ride height....5R 4.5F. After 5 tanks of fuel, I have 1 little scratch on my brand new chassis...(you can tell how SMOOTH is this track).

I will post track pictures when I unload the camera files...hot laps was 18laps by Speed II/Mugen. Last year was 20 laps by Swauger.





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Old 06-16-2008, 01:02 PM   #9395
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Is it just me, or does my g4s oversteer more with a protoform mazda6 than other boddies I've used?
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Old 06-16-2008, 01:02 PM   #9396
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Is it just me, or does my g4s oversteer more with a protoform mazda6 than other boddies I've used?
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Old 06-16-2008, 01:15 PM   #9397
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My car is UNDER....not horriblely under. but I can use more. I was told by you guys G4 is oversteer a lot, thats why I use harder spring upfront. But I think I will have to change it. Then softer front tires too. May be 42R 40F....

But my M6 does not make me OVER...actually, under, but I think it is my car's setting.
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Old 06-16-2008, 08:51 PM   #9398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pattojnr View Post
you have edited my quote. ill refrase this.
Front sway bar, Flat
Rear Sway bar, hard, Verticle.
i have travelled to a few different tracks in the last year, and 10K diff fluid seems to be the best all round starting point. but this is for my driving and how i like my car, everyone is different. but yes 10K is ok . Droop i tend to use 0 front and 3-4 rear. the G4+ has a 4mm chassis. one thing to try is to remove the screws on the X brace to the radio tray. this will give you more steering. i find the 4mm chassis too stiff and only really suited for high traction tracks.

Will try the setup at the track later..

big tnx!
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Old 06-16-2008, 11:34 PM   #9399
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well i started on the G4RS build tonight. I have the front end done an the rear diff built so far so good

now my last G4 had every single k factory option available. Im glad this is more plastic but there is some things that i prefered whats everyones thought i dont want to keep building if im gonna add what i feel is a good option.


real racing pad brakes
the aluminum center pulley mount
lightweight 2 speed hub
aluminum brake arm
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Old 06-17-2008, 01:50 AM   #9400
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Originally Posted by DENNIS STORTI View Post
well i started on the G4RS build tonight. I have the front end done an the rear diff built so far so good

now my last G4 had every single k factory option available. Im glad this is more plastic but there is some things that i prefered whats everyones thought i dont want to keep building if im gonna add what i feel is a good option.


real racing pad brakes
the aluminum center pulley mount
lightweight 2 speed hub
aluminum brake arm

Brake pads - for sure!
Center pulley mount - not required
2 speed hub - nice
Aluminum brake arm - you'll notice the RS one is a lot shorter....still fits though

Kyosho titanium diff pins - rotation weight saving, faster acceleration
Kfactory front spool - still can't understand why so many are using diffs up front!
Lightweight pillow balls - reduced unsprung weight

It would be really nice ( NOTE ANYONE FROM TEAM MAGIC READING THIS ) to be able to get an RS chassis in 4mm....

If you stare at the 3mm one long enough it will tweak !

P.S. - the tallest gears I've run on mine so far is 20/45, and on the longest straight the car was still winding up with 60mm tyres...

Patto, I'll MSN you tonight
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Old 06-17-2008, 04:04 AM   #9401
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Originally Posted by DENNIS STORTI View Post
well i started on the G4RS build tonight. I have the front end done an the rear diff built so far so good

now my last G4 had every single k factory option available. Im glad this is more plastic but there is some things that i prefered whats everyones thought i dont want to keep building if im gonna add what i feel is a good option.


real racing pad brakes
the aluminum center pulley mount
lightweight 2 speed hub
aluminum brake arm
Hi Dennis, i would use the pads for sure, the hub and the brake arm, as for the rest, im actually trying out as many plastic parts from the G4JS as possible. i have found the plastic X brace for the speedshot front end is a must. but again a high traction track , you nay need to dial some steering out. i would use all the old G4S arms on the car also, but stuck with the rear flying lower arms. im actually going to try and go back to the G4+ 4mm chassis, and leave somethings unscrewed like the X plate. i saw Dario tried this in Brisbane worlds a few years ago. overall happy wiht the car apart from some gearing issues. the car loves to use the 15/20 pinions but the 15t pinion does go through spur gears alot. good enough for a qualifier, but not the mains.
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Old 06-17-2008, 05:32 AM   #9402
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Hi there
Wondering if anyone could tell me. I have a g4rs.. Very happy with it.
i have it going well how ever i keep breaking the rear swaybar pin (next to where the c clips are). I have broken 2 of them and im not sure why.
I run the sway bar flat and it doesent appear to be rubbing onanything.
The car is handling awesomely.
Thought i would ask if anyone has experienced this before

thanks

peter
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Old 06-17-2008, 05:57 AM   #9403
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Originally Posted by prg View Post
Hi there
Wondering if anyone could tell me. I have a g4rs.. Very happy with it.
i have it going well how ever i keep breaking the rear swaybar pin (next to where the c clips are). I have broken 2 of them and im not sure why.
I run the sway bar flat and it doesent appear to be rubbing onanything.
The car is handling awesomely.
Thought i would ask if anyone has experienced this before

thanks

peter
hi peter, i have only used the G4+ rear swaybar with no issues. i know SP racer was having the same issues, you can try a spare hinge pin cut it down and drill and thread a grub screw to hold the alloy part of the bar to the hinge pin. it will then not break. i think its from the C clip they have recessed that is the weak point. either do this with what you have or just get the G4+ sway bar, it is this design anyway.
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Old 06-17-2008, 07:38 AM   #9404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solara View Post
Tested the car with socko yesterday (with limited sun) @ LHR for the upcoming Byron Race....G4RS does handle great (just as good as our previous ride Serpent 720 and MTX4R).....Socko Speed II is a Rocket even with everything stock....My NS12 is alittle bit low on top high but I don't expect much on a $150 motor. I have use a stock P-Dub bumper and custom made a G4RS hard foam bumper to save some front arms.

However, 1 thing I will do this week is relocate my receiver from the stock location (in front of the engine and above the chassis behind the tank). After my engine getting warm, my receiver is getting glitchy and want to do WOT...good thing I do have fail safe within. But I have tried at least 5 times...receiver getting weird ONLY after engine is warm up. Not to mention, the T6 chassis is SUPER HOT, hotter then most of the RC that I have own...temped 120 degree F plus....and since the receiver is direct above the HOT chassis...that might be the problem. I have to say, I really like the stock receiver location and the lead wire/plug for the receiver pack...really clean and nice, but if that will give me a DNF, nothing matters...

Socko has made me a custom receiver mount (carbon fiber) for the RS that I will use (see pic below)...hopefully that will solve my reciever problem. I will mount the receiver underneath and the AMB above.

My current setup is everything per manual except front springs using the light blueish (or that is green?) spring from TM on front. Diff are all spec setting. 40s all around. Ride height....5R 4.5F. After 5 tanks of fuel, I have 1 little scratch on my brand new chassis...(you can tell how SMOOTH is this track).

I will post track pictures when I unload the camera files...hot laps was 18laps by Speed II/Mugen. Last year was 20 laps by Swauger.





I'm not sure the position of the RX is the problem. Do you mean your up at 12 Degrees C ? Because 120 degrees F is not very hot. If you take a meat thermometer and place it on the balloon your RX is in, within the plastic cradle. You'll see it's not that hot. Everyone runs the RX in this stock position without problems.

Does seam odd though how your glitching starts once your motor gets warm??
I've always double bagged the RX and regulator and placed it in the cradle in the stock position without a related problem.
Dario and Darin have always ran the G4 (In it's S + or RS guise) with the RX in the stock position.
Some I know have turned the protection shield around so its between the engine and the RX within the cradle.
Also, if your running the + chassis (4mm chassis) you may want to cut away the part of the chassis which covers the RX position. Gets more air to the motor and gives access to getting to the RX pack too.

Dennis

I would go with the Brake pads. They are better and I would also have the K factory disk too.....helps with the brake fade.
Middle mount............I wouldn't bother.
Aluminum brake arm........I wouldn't bother.
Lightweight two speed.......Yes. Always good to cut down on rotational mass.
The TM dedicated front spool is good because of the same reason too although best results come from a front diff'
Usually 100,000WT oil in but some (Gansei for ex.) have used 50,000WT with good results.
The titanium pillow balls seam to make a difference.....soooo much lighter!!

Don't get too hung up over lightness though (Of the car that is!....lol I went ott with it and got the car down to 1640g race ready!! Then had trouble getting the car to legal weight!!!???

As Patto said. The plastic top brace is good. The 'S' arms seam more durable although if you like the new rear sway bar then as Patto said, you will have to keep the rear "flying wing" arms.

I also agree with Patto on the gearing too. The 15/20T pinion combination really gives the car incredible acceleration but they do wear the gears fast.
Better I think to go with 16/21T pinion and the 52 spur and try and get more foreward traction from set-up of car and clutch.

Solara

Guess what? I just put my Nova Rossi motor in the car getting ready for the Byrons race and the Brake disk just touches the motor ????? Never had that before ??....lol. Will shave a few microns off the motor to get clearence. Made me laugh after you had said.

Regards,
British Menace

PS: I'll be trying to get the big grill down for us so don't forget your meat and buns
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Old 06-17-2008, 08:13 AM   #9405
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Default Brake thaught

well ill let you in on what i use for brakes.
i use the std G4Rs 2 speed shaft. i then use the G4+ 21t brake pulley. i grind a flat section on the 2 speed shaft and use strong loctite on the grub screw for the brake pulley. i like to use this pulley becuase i can use the smaller KF brake disc. there are no touching issues with this combination. plus i like the alloy pulley as its near direct heat of the engine, and the side guides for the belt are stronger than the plastic one.
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