Team Magic G4
06-09-2008, 10:18 PM
#9361
喷射式泵 水泵维修是靠工作流体产生的高速射流引射流体，然后再通过动量交换而使被引射流体的能量增加。北京水泵维修 动力式泵靠快速旋转的叶轮对液体的作用力，将机械能传递给液体,使其动能和压力能增加，然后再通过泵缸，将 大部分动能转换为压力能而实现输送。动力式泵又称叶轮式泵或叶片式泵。离心泵是最常见的动力式 泵。水泵维修动力式泵在一定转速下产生的扬程有一限定值,扬程随流量而改变；工作稳定，输送连续，流量和压力无脉动；一 般无自吸能力，需要将泵先灌满液体或将管路抽成真空后才能开始工作 ；北京水泵维修适用性能范围广；适宜输送粘度很小的清洁液体，特殊设计的泵可输送泥浆、污水等或水输固体物。水泵维修动力式泵主要用于给水、排水、灌溉、流程液体输送、电站蓄能、液压传动和船舶喷射推进等
Why did you post in these language you know most people here cant understand these.
(您為什麼在這些張貼了語言您知道多數這裡人偽善言辭瞭解這些)translation
06-10-2008, 01:10 AM
#9362
try looking at checking your swaybars. use the blocks with no shocks on. check the rear bar not letting one side fall down to droop. same as the front. when using your droop blocks, set the car up with no shocks on. when you do put the shocks back on, recheck the settings, one shock a little shorter will hold up one arm some and cause the car to be tweaked.
those settings you use shouldnt create your problem. would be a smooth track you run on though. its not uncommon to see wheels off the ground though. also one more thing to check, front universals. if your track width is too narrow, your shafts might be bottoming out in the cups, not allowing the front shocks to work properly ?
those settings you use shouldnt create your problem. would be a smooth track you run on though. its not uncommon to see wheels off the ground though. also one more thing to check, front universals. if your track width is too narrow, your shafts might be bottoming out in the cups, not allowing the front shocks to work properly ?
thanks for yr reply...
when setting my droops, i've always disconnect my sway bars and shocks, no worries...
06-10-2008, 07:39 AM
#9363
Hello G4 gang,
Finishing up my build and wondered if my car was atypical. I've had many fit and build issues with my kit. I had the rear swaybar problem like others I've seen on here. Fixed that with different ball cups. I've had problems with ballcups being too tight, hingepin fits being off (especially the front when the swaybar holders are on), alignment of screwholes between the radio tray and front bulkheads. I could go on but I won't bore you all. Is this typical of this kit or did I get a bad sample? I can't wait to get it on the track, just wanted to know if my build up was unusual.
Thanks,
Socko
Finishing up my build and wondered if my car was atypical. I've had many fit and build issues with my kit. I had the rear swaybar problem like others I've seen on here. Fixed that with different ball cups. I've had problems with ballcups being too tight, hingepin fits being off (especially the front when the swaybar holders are on), alignment of screwholes between the radio tray and front bulkheads. I could go on but I won't bore you all. Is this typical of this kit or did I get a bad sample? I can't wait to get it on the track, just wanted to know if my build up was unusual.
Thanks,
Socko
See you Sunday @ LHR to enjoy our little TM father's day event.
06-10-2008, 11:56 AM
#9364
Tech Regular
Hello to all, I am having some serious trouble with my second gear. It strips after some 10-15 minutes of runtime. 4 Different people have tried to setup the gear mesh and it always seems to be fine but the second always strips after some usage. I am running 16/52 and 21/46 so I think it has nothing to do with the gearing choice. Any Ideas? Thanks in advance!
I had the same problem with my car this weekend.
I put a new 2gear house and continue with the problem.
The only way to get it fix was changing the clutch bell, put a new 16/21 clutch bell and also change both bearing that support the shaft on the 502265 side suports. The bearing is steel and the suport is Al, maybe you have some play. when I instal the bearing on the side support, I put some RED Loctite to be sure the bearing is fixed on the Al.
Hope it helps, the car is great to drive
06-12-2008, 12:14 PM
#9365
I want to make sure I did not install it incorrectly....the side belt ball bearing tensioner adjustment thing....in order for me to dail down (downward) to get the side belt tension, am I suppose to use a 1.5mm ball end allen wrench, pointed it thru the engine and aim to the screw (hopefully) and push down..? The screw is actually inside the engine bay...?
If that is correct, I would say that is one horrible design of that part....horrible.
Please tell me I was wrong or there are solution....
If that is correct, I would say that is one horrible design of that part....horrible.
Please tell me I was wrong or there are solution....
06-12-2008, 02:38 PM
#9366
I want to make sure I did not install it incorrectly....the side belt ball bearing tensioner adjustment thing....in order for me to dail down (downward) to get the side belt tension, am I suppose to use a 1.5mm ball end allen wrench, pointed it thru the engine and aim to the screw (hopefully) and push down..? The screw is actually inside the engine bay...?
If that is correct, I would say that is one horrible design of that part....horrible.
Please tell me I was wrong or there are solution....
If that is correct, I would say that is one horrible design of that part....horrible.
Please tell me I was wrong or there are solution....
This is my solution
Get your 2.5mm driver and wiggle it into the exposed thread on the aluminum part of the tensioner - it's a bit hard but worth the effort.
Once you have done this, it makes the hole into a hex, and you can then stick a 2.5 driver and adjust the side belt tension from the outside rather than from the inner 2.0mm bolt.
06-12-2008, 04:47 PM
#9367
This is my solution
Get your 2.5mm driver and wiggle it into the exposed thread on the aluminum part of the tensioner - it's a bit hard but worth the effort.
Once you have done this, it makes the hole into a hex, and you can then stick a 2.5 driver and adjust the side belt tension from the outside rather than from the inner 2.0mm bolt.
Get your 2.5mm driver and wiggle it into the exposed thread on the aluminum part of the tensioner - it's a bit hard but worth the effort.
Once you have done this, it makes the hole into a hex, and you can then stick a 2.5 driver and adjust the side belt tension from the outside rather than from the inner 2.0mm bolt.
06-12-2008, 09:22 PM
#9368
Yes. It can be kind of awkward to adjust.
But I find if you have a long 2mm wrench, say the schumacher or Hudy long shafted tool. It will reach the screw from the opposite side of the car. Without having to tilt the tool and have to use a ball ended tool.
Working the tool from the opposite side of the car at the same hight as the tensioners screw. You can just get through to the adjuster
Bit awkward though.
What I find more frustrating is not being able to get at the lower screw on the brake pads to adjust up for wear etc.
Regards,
British Menace
But I find if you have a long 2mm wrench, say the schumacher or Hudy long shafted tool. It will reach the screw from the opposite side of the car. Without having to tilt the tool and have to use a ball ended tool.
Working the tool from the opposite side of the car at the same hight as the tensioners screw. You can just get through to the adjuster
Bit awkward though.
What I find more frustrating is not being able to get at the lower screw on the brake pads to adjust up for wear etc.
Regards,
British Menace
06-13-2008, 03:08 AM
#9370
My solution is kinda similar....I CA a 3mm button head to the outside alum bearing shaft and adjsut the tension from outside. That way, the button head and the silver alum bearing shaft is 1 piece. But still, I have to use a AE NTC3 super short 2.5mm allen wrench to HOLD the screw behind in order for me to set that pulley tight...thanks anyway.
if you want to get the most out of the belt, then id suggest getting the mugen tensioner, its done from the outside and has the slot on the inside so you dont need to hold both ends either.
im actually using a old mongoose tensioner on mine, its plastic, but i have the Mugen one on the other RS.
06-13-2008, 06:40 AM
#9371
I thought they all just had the one 3 x 12 screw in??
Never seen a tensioner with two screws in.
Patto.
Must be nice to have that kind of time between rounds/ before finals to do that work.
I think last week we had 15 mins pit work time to get things ready for the next race. Not much time to do stuff.
Regards,
British Menace
06-13-2008, 07:05 AM
#9372
06-13-2008, 08:52 AM
#9373
"Two 3 x 8 screws" ??
I thought they all just had the one 3 x 12 screw in??
Never seen a tensioner with two screws in.
Patto.
Must be nice to have that kind of time between rounds/ before finals to do that work.
I think last week we had 15 mins pit work time to get things ready for the next race. Not much time to do stuff.
Regards,
British Menace
I thought they all just had the one 3 x 12 screw in??
Never seen a tensioner with two screws in.
Patto.
Must be nice to have that kind of time between rounds/ before finals to do that work.
I think last week we had 15 mins pit work time to get things ready for the next race. Not much time to do stuff.
Regards,
British Menace
06-13-2008, 09:10 AM
#9374
Tech Regular
and you MUSt know that a correct clucht setting is the very important to have your car fast.
What are the diff you found using the UFO and UFO2?
have fun
ALG
06-13-2008, 11:07 AM
#9375
Keavz... oh yes on the rear belt tensioner.
I thought we were talking about the side belt tensioner. My mystake.
Patto. Your absolutely right on that my friend. All I have time to do is the clutch and clean out the two speed. Maybe an adjustment or two but thats if I'm quick.
Regards,
British Menace
I thought we were talking about the side belt tensioner. My mystake.Patto. Your absolutely right on that my friend. All I have time to do is the clutch and clean out the two speed. Maybe an adjustment or two but thats if I'm quick.
Regards,
British Menace