R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-09-2008, 11:18 PM   #9361
Tech Adept
 
sonyb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 138
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 080526jk View Post
喷射式泵 水泵维修是靠工作流体产生的高速射流引射流体,然后再通过动量交换而使被引射流体的能量增加。北京水泵维修 动力式泵靠快速旋转的叶轮对液体的作用力,将机械能传递给液体,使其动能和压力能增加,然后再通过泵缸,将 大部分动能转换为压力能而实现输送。动力式泵又称叶轮式泵或叶片式泵。离心泵是最常见的动力式 泵。水泵维修动力式泵在一定转速下产生的扬程有一限定值,扬程随流量而改变;工作稳定,输送连续,流量和压力无脉动;一 般无自吸能力,需要将泵先灌满液体或将管路抽成真空后才能开始工作 ;北京水泵维修适用性能范围广;适宜输送粘度很小的清洁液体,特殊设计的泵可输送泥浆、污水等或水输固体物。水泵维修动力式泵主要用于给水、排水、灌溉、流程液体输送、电站蓄能、液压传动和船舶喷射推进等

Why did you post in these language you know most people here cant understand these.

(您為什麼在這些張貼了語言您知道多數這裡人偽善言辭瞭解這些)translation
sonyb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2008, 02:10 AM   #9362
Tech Addict
 
NitroWD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 622
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pattojnr View Post
try looking at checking your swaybars. use the blocks with no shocks on. check the rear bar not letting one side fall down to droop. same as the front. when using your droop blocks, set the car up with no shocks on. when you do put the shocks back on, recheck the settings, one shock a little shorter will hold up one arm some and cause the car to be tweaked.
those settings you use shouldnt create your problem. would be a smooth track you run on though. its not uncommon to see wheels off the ground though. also one more thing to check, front universals. if your track width is too narrow, your shafts might be bottoming out in the cups, not allowing the front shocks to work properly ?
hi Pattojnr,
thanks for yr reply...
when setting my droops, i've always disconnect my sway bars and shocks, no worries...
__________________
* Earth's fate depends on what we do TODAY... *
+ Earth got all the time in the world; but we DON'T... +
NitroWD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2008, 08:39 AM   #9363
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Chicago Illinois USA
Posts: 9,106
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to Solara Send a message via AIM to Solara
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnySocko View Post
Hello G4 gang,

Finishing up my build and wondered if my car was atypical. I've had many fit and build issues with my kit. I had the rear swaybar problem like others I've seen on here. Fixed that with different ball cups. I've had problems with ballcups being too tight, hingepin fits being off (especially the front when the swaybar holders are on), alignment of screwholes between the radio tray and front bulkheads. I could go on but I won't bore you all. Is this typical of this kit or did I get a bad sample? I can't wait to get it on the track, just wanted to know if my build up was unusual.

Thanks,
Socko
Socko....get yours ready, I am only down to body, mount engine/clutch, shocks..........about radio tray fitment, not a problem on my version. Fit just like anyother brand of kit...(except my rear upper diff mount, it is 2mm way too long...good thing it is plastic and a little dremel work take care of that problem).

See you Sunday @ LHR to enjoy our little TM father's day event.
Solara is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2008, 12:56 PM   #9364
ALG
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: LIMA PERU
Posts: 371
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorge G View Post
Hello to all, I am having some serious trouble with my second gear. It strips after some 10-15 minutes of runtime. 4 Different people have tried to setup the gear mesh and it always seems to be fine but the second always strips after some usage. I am running 16/52 and 21/46 so I think it has nothing to do with the gearing choice. Any Ideas? Thanks in advance!
Jorge,
I had the same problem with my car this weekend.
I put a new 2gear house and continue with the problem.

The only way to get it fix was changing the clutch bell, put a new 16/21 clutch bell and also change both bearing that support the shaft on the 502265 side suports. The bearing is steel and the suport is Al, maybe you have some play. when I instal the bearing on the side support, I put some RED Loctite to be sure the bearing is fixed on the Al.

Hope it helps, the car is great to drive
ALG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2008, 01:14 PM   #9365
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Chicago Illinois USA
Posts: 9,106
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to Solara Send a message via AIM to Solara
Default

I want to make sure I did not install it incorrectly....the side belt ball bearing tensioner adjustment thing....in order for me to dail down (downward) to get the side belt tension, am I suppose to use a 1.5mm ball end allen wrench, pointed it thru the engine and aim to the screw (hopefully) and push down..? The screw is actually inside the engine bay...?

If that is correct, I would say that is one horrible design of that part....horrible.

Please tell me I was wrong or there are solution....
Solara is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2008, 03:38 PM   #9366
Tech Master
 
Sp Racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,624
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Solara View Post
I want to make sure I did not install it incorrectly....the side belt ball bearing tensioner adjustment thing....in order for me to dail down (downward) to get the side belt tension, am I suppose to use a 1.5mm ball end allen wrench, pointed it thru the engine and aim to the screw (hopefully) and push down..? The screw is actually inside the engine bay...?

If that is correct, I would say that is one horrible design of that part....horrible.

Please tell me I was wrong or there are solution....

This is my solution

Get your 2.5mm driver and wiggle it into the exposed thread on the aluminum part of the tensioner - it's a bit hard but worth the effort.

Once you have done this, it makes the hole into a hex, and you can then stick a 2.5 driver and adjust the side belt tension from the outside rather than from the inner 2.0mm bolt.
__________________
10 yrs on RC tech ! wow....
Sp Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2008, 05:47 PM   #9367
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Chicago Illinois USA
Posts: 9,106
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to Solara Send a message via AIM to Solara
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp Racer View Post
This is my solution

Get your 2.5mm driver and wiggle it into the exposed thread on the aluminum part of the tensioner - it's a bit hard but worth the effort.

Once you have done this, it makes the hole into a hex, and you can then stick a 2.5 driver and adjust the side belt tension from the outside rather than from the inner 2.0mm bolt.
My solution is kinda similar....I CA a 3mm button head to the outside alum bearing shaft and adjsut the tension from outside. That way, the button head and the silver alum bearing shaft is 1 piece. But still, I have to use a AE NTC3 super short 2.5mm allen wrench to HOLD the screw behind in order for me to set that pulley tight...thanks anyway.
Solara is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2008, 10:22 PM   #9368
Tech Elite
 
British Menace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Davenport, IA
Posts: 2,338
Default

Yes. It can be kind of awkward to adjust.

But I find if you have a long 2mm wrench, say the schumacher or Hudy long shafted tool. It will reach the screw from the opposite side of the car. Without having to tilt the tool and have to use a ball ended tool.

Working the tool from the opposite side of the car at the same hight as the tensioners screw. You can just get through to the adjuster

Bit awkward though.
What I find more frustrating is not being able to get at the lower screw on the brake pads to adjust up for wear etc.

Regards,
British Menace
__________________
So enjoying building cars I sometimes forget to save some "man-time" to race them!?
British Menace is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2008, 01:33 AM   #9369
Tech Master
 
Sp Racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,624
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace View Post

Bit awkward though.
What I find more frustrating is not being able to get at the lower screw on the brake pads to adjust up for wear etc.

Regards,
British Menace
This is an easy fix!

SWAP the two 3 x 8 mm screws that hold the tensioner in place with 3 X 12 mm - now you can just loosen the tensioner off ( without taking it out altogether) to gain access to the lower screw
__________________
10 yrs on RC tech ! wow....
Sp Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2008, 04:08 AM   #9370
Tech Elite
 
Pattojnr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Perth Australia
Posts: 4,594
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Solara View Post
My solution is kinda similar....I CA a 3mm button head to the outside alum bearing shaft and adjsut the tension from outside. That way, the button head and the silver alum bearing shaft is 1 piece. But still, I have to use a AE NTC3 super short 2.5mm allen wrench to HOLD the screw behind in order for me to set that pulley tight...thanks anyway.
i dont think its that much of a problem. if your like me, i pull the engine out before the Finals, i reset the clutch , and then its easy to set the belt tension then. if your belt stretches that much, it would be close to loosing a few teeth also. so i tend to set and forget, and replace the belt when it gets loose. 9 times out of ten its missing a couple of teeth at the same time.
if you want to get the most out of the belt, then id suggest getting the mugen tensioner, its done from the outside and has the slot on the inside so you dont need to hold both ends either.
im actually using a old mongoose tensioner on mine, its plastic, but i have the Mugen one on the other RS.
__________________
Serpent - Walter RC
Serpent E Power ..... Serpent 747 Reds M3T
Serpent 966-TE Reds M7T .... S411ERYX Speedpassion 3.5T, T-Shox
Serpent 811-TE REDs R5T
Pattojnr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2008, 07:40 AM   #9371
Tech Elite
 
British Menace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Davenport, IA
Posts: 2,338
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp Racer View Post
This is an easy fix!

SWAP the two 3 x 8 mm screws that hold the tensioner in place with 3 X 12 mm - now you can just loosen the tensioner off ( without taking it out altogether) to gain access to the lower screw
"Two 3 x 8 screws" ??
I thought they all just had the one 3 x 12 screw in??

Never seen a tensioner with two screws in.

Patto.

Must be nice to have that kind of time between rounds/ before finals to do that work.
I think last week we had 15 mins pit work time to get things ready for the next race. Not much time to do stuff.

Regards,
British Menace
__________________
So enjoying building cars I sometimes forget to save some "man-time" to race them!?
British Menace is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2008, 08:05 AM   #9372
Tech Addict
 
keavze's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 590
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace View Post
"Two 3 x 8 screws" ??
I thought they all just had the one 3 x 12 screw in??

Never seen a tensioner with two screws in.
i think sp racer is refering to the 2 screws that fasten the tensioner to the chassis...not the screw that set the tension...
__________________
>>> the "SNAKE" doesn't bite; it STINGS! <<<
keavze is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2008, 09:52 AM   #9373
Tech Elite
 
Pattojnr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Perth Australia
Posts: 4,594
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace View Post
"Two 3 x 8 screws" ??
I thought they all just had the one 3 x 12 screw in??

Never seen a tensioner with two screws in.

Patto.

Must be nice to have that kind of time between rounds/ before finals to do that work.
I think last week we had 15 mins pit work time to get things ready for the next race. Not much time to do stuff.

Regards,
British Menace
i know there isnt alot of time , but i have learned the hard way, that the clutch is the most important part of the car to make sure its right. so i now check it before Finals.
__________________
Serpent - Walter RC
Serpent E Power ..... Serpent 747 Reds M3T
Serpent 966-TE Reds M7T .... S411ERYX Speedpassion 3.5T, T-Shox
Serpent 811-TE REDs R5T
Pattojnr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2008, 10:10 AM   #9374
ALG
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: LIMA PERU
Posts: 371
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pattojnr View Post
i know there isnt alot of time , but i have learned the hard way, that the clutch is the most important part of the car to make sure its right. so i now check it before Finals.
patto, there is no short cut for experience!!!
and you MUSt know that a correct clucht setting is the very important to have your car fast.

What are the diff you found using the UFO and UFO2?

have fun
ALG
ALG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2008, 12:07 PM   #9375
Tech Elite
 
British Menace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Davenport, IA
Posts: 2,338
Default

Keavz... oh yes on the rear belt tensioner. I thought we were talking about the side belt tensioner. My mystake.

Patto. Your absolutely right on that my friend. All I have time to do is the clutch and clean out the two speed. Maybe an adjustment or two but thats if I'm quick.

Regards,
British Menace
__________________
So enjoying building cars I sometimes forget to save some "man-time" to race them!?
British Menace is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS: Team Magic G4 - LRP Z12R Team Spec 2 - Add RX/TX LogiK Australia For Sale/Trade 1 08-03-2007 02:00 AM
Team Magic G4s MaDaGAS CAR Australia For Sale/Trade 29 05-07-2007 03:30 AM
Brian Berry Joins Team Phenix/Team Magic Motorman Nitro On-Road 27 03-07-2006 05:51 AM
team magic g4 + elephant R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 4 04-26-2004 07:34 AM
Team Magic G4 "Black Magic" tennessee Nitro On-Road 32 04-20-2003 11:40 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:01 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net