British Menace

An excelent idea Patto.
Good work!

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Tony....not my NS12, brake disk still a few mm away from the case. Nor on Sockco's Speed II....I am not sure Juchca's 353 will have that issue or not but will find out this SUN. But again, we are running the RS, and I am not sure what are the different between the RS and the rest of the G4 series....still new on this platform.
Yeah, I think that has something to do with me not isolated the receiver from the chassis HIGH enough. Chassis was about 120 degree F (not 12 degree C). From my experience, this chassis is ALOT hotter then any of my Serpents before (10th or 8th)...must be the T6 material.

But I have way more then enough expericen doing DNF because of the receiver failure due to FUEL issue (mechanic trying to do 2 second fuel when I am expecting him to do a 5 second refuel....whats the hurry?) So I better mount the receiver upfront to be SAFE then sorry.....we all know, SH_T does happen. I would rather see my car FULL WOOD at the end of the sweeper crash to the side board, total the whole car then getting a DNF because my recevier got wet.....really.

British Menace

Yes. Good point! Especially with an hour long final. Can never be too careful!
Rick is mounting his RX ontop of the transponder mount. Not sure about his regulator cause he's running a Li-Po. Where he's putting that I don't know!

Will you be there Friday Solara?
Sorry, typo on the 12 degrees C...... lol Meant 120 degrees C. Now thats prety hot.
Yeah. I've also noticed the chassis does get warm doesn't it? Your probably right in that it's possibly the T6 material. Makes for a good heat sink though....... .....as long as you don't burn yourself. Lol

Regards,
British Menace

Solara

iTrader: (17)

I will see I can do a 1/2 from work and setup my pit there and final engine testing (not much testing I need cause engine is pretty stock just need to car to run without any other little issue).

Yeah, 120 Degree C, I doubt any plastic can stand with those heat...definitely not my receiver. Rick is mounting it ABOVE the plate. I like it under pointing south so I can mount AMB above. But I am not sure my AMB will read with mounting position like that..?

TM use T6 because Taiwan build a lot of airplane....T6 is everywhere over there, they use T6 for Coca Cola can....(no, just kidding).

Rick Vessell

iTrader: (10)

Tony,

I'm not running lipo yet. Still testing with the 1100 pack. I have the RX on top of the mount and the transponder mounted to the stock transponder mount. I ran the wires between the RX mount and the transponder mount. This gives you a nice spot to bundle your wires without worry of them dragging on the ground. You can check it out for yourself when you get to the track. I even made up a splash guard from .040 lexan to keep fuel out of the RX during pit stops.

Socko

Solara

iTrader: (17)

I will see I can do a 1/2 day from work and setup my pit there and final engine testing on next Friday (not much testing I need cause engine is pretty stock just need the car to run without any other little issue).

Yeah, not 120 Degree C, I doubt any plastic can stand with those heat...definitely not my receiver. Rick is mounting it ABOVE the plate. I like it under pointing south so I can mount AMB above. But I am not sure my AMB will read with mounting position like that..?

TM use T6 because Taiwan build a lot of airplane and parts....T6 is everywhere over there, they use T6 for Coca Cola can....(no, just kidding).

Yeah....Rick's splash guard is a good touch...I mounted mine last night, it is awesome. But Rick's already got his Verision 2.0 on Sunday, mine is still verion 1.0....I might need the update. LOL

Rick, what SIZE are those inner tire tube for bicycle that you were talking about @ Walmart...? Do you know the size actually?

Rick Vessell

iTrader: (10)

Howard,

I have your splash guard already done. I'll bring it with me. I think the tube size is 1.75 x 26. I'll check tonight when I get home.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Wooo Hooo.....version 2.0 upgraded....LOL. Thanks Rick. (BTW....I felt a lot better having the recevier away from the original location, probably that made me feel like the WET recevier will not happen again this year...I HOPE).

British Menace

Hey Solara,

Nice paint job on the car.....looks cool!
I'm hoping to get down to the track friday pm for some practice. I want to try a different set-up I've been working on.

Rick,
Sorry. Thought you were going to try and run a Li-Po.

Whats a quick lap around Leisure Hours now for 200mm?

Regards,
British Menace

Hope to see you there.

British Menace

DENNIS STORTI

iTrader: (42)

build is just about done IDM Engine is on its way and electrics to follow by thursday or friday

on the aluminum Tony knows he seen pictures of my old g4 i had every imaginable option made an i did like some for the perfect fit an finish i never have been a fan of the stamped piece either on the sides i will replace them to make in more true on fittment

jabasolo

Tried the setup.. it handles better now.. there is a bit of oversteer on power, corner entry.


my front droop is initially on 2, made it 1... ill try the zero front droop later.

The stiff rear sway bar.. works great..

our track is high traction..

anthony_ling

iTrader: (2)

Gentlemen.. need some help with the clutch setup..

When I nail the throttle, clutch engages well off the corners, but when moving slowly, or from a standstill, with the throttle 1/4 open (low revs) the clutch seems to grab and lower the revs, then disengage, then again grab, bring the revs down then disengage then grab... and go... (all within a second)

Needless to say I’m still new to the world of nitro rc, this is my first G4S and need some guidance.... I've have a good smooth clutch setup for 8 meetings, until now..

In an attempt to resolve the issue I have tried,

1. reduce the end play and increase the gap, (with a view to allow the engine to rev higher before engaging)
2. reduce the clutch gap and increase the spring tension..

Where to from here? Or is this simply a symptom of a worn clutch shoe?

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

can you give the exact clutch setup you are using. might be able to help. usually also 8 meetings is a long life of a clutch shoe. might want to replace it while its apart. what can happen is the shoe wears so much, that the clutch spring in turn adds tension as the shoe has to travle further, unless you regularly setup your clutch to the same settings all the time.

anthony_ling

iTrader: (2)

Thanks pattojnr, clutch gap was .4 mm, I found that I’m missing the shims between the spring adjustment nut and the clutch bell..

no shims means that the clutch bell doesn’t spin freely, I guess this explains it... I'll report back after Sunday’s meeting...

at the second last meeting one of the more experienced drivers said that my clutch was too hard and was causing a handling problem (loose coming on power out of the corners) , he suggested to minimized the clutch gap.... so I did the only way I knew how..


Check out this video
http://www.revver.com/video/231483/j...ne-and-clutch/

Can someone explain how you can tune the clutch on the ground like this...
I've seen some of the 1/8th guys doing this at my local track, is it just a sound and feel thing ?? .... as a newbie... I guess that once I’m happy with the clutch on the track I can do this procedure and see how it feels / sounds...
I've got no chance doing this now at home cause I don't know how it should feel..

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

ok there are pins in the flyout shoes, there should be 2 inserts per shoe weight. a clutch gap of 0.4mm is fine. try to use 0.5mm clutch spring tension, and use no weights in these flyout shoes. spring if you have an option, use a hard spring. this will give late engagement but not hard hitting clutch. if you use the red clutch shoe, then this will give a bit more slippage .

those 1/8ths, they are setting the clutch to actually slip, then they back the spring off , thats how they set the tension on the spring. but they have more power from these engines. its a way to soften the blow on a happy throttle finger.