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Old 07-16-2007, 12:09 AM
  #7651  
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Kodack download teh serpent drive calc software.
You can change pulley values and see what gearing changes are like with different pulley, pinion and spur combos.
http://webzoom.freewebs.com/izzyinsa...ive%20Calc.exe
Off hand cant remember what internal ratio the G4S is but i use the 710 value and just use the software as a reference point to see changes.

Yes the ED does make a difference but more so on very technical tight tracks.
Ive got 2 G4S cars running and am almost on teh same pace but am running ED in one car and std tranny in other.
What i found makes a huge difference is the changing of brake/side pulleys and front side pulley.
Even with the tranny gearing changes if your clutch is not right then there is no benefit.Also the gearing is relevant to the engine you are using.
I have a Mega DSII in my std tranny car and couldnt get it running as nice with the shorter gearing (18brake and side) but when i changed to the longer gearing(20brake and side) the car woke up big time but when i put the PR12 in its lazy on the bottom and wakes up when i change to the 18 brake and side pulley.
Mega is running a 2607 pipe which it likes and performs with and the PR12 has a Skyline VR12 or JP/Nova 2601.

What it comes down too is being prepared to try combos and do the stick time to get the car working for you and the track.A good pit man is also helpful if possible.
I must say again i found Muppets spool setup to be so close to perfect for my track and would recommend it as a starting setup for a low to medium grip track with tight and fast corners.
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Old 07-16-2007, 01:54 AM
  #7652  
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Originally Posted by razzor
Kodack download teh serpent drive calc software.
You can change pulley values and see what gearing changes are like with different pulley, pinion and spur combos.
http://webzoom.freewebs.com/izzyinsa...ive%20Calc.exe
Off hand cant remember what internal ratio the G4S is but i use the 710 value and just use the software as a reference point to see changes.

Yes the ED does make a difference but more so on very technical tight tracks.
Ive got 2 G4S cars running and am almost on teh same pace but am running ED in one car and std tranny in other.
What i found makes a huge difference is the changing of brake/side pulleys and front side pulley.
Even with the tranny gearing changes if your clutch is not right then there is no benefit.Also the gearing is relevant to the engine you are using.
I have a Mega DSII in my std tranny car and couldnt get it running as nice with the shorter gearing (18brake and side) but when i changed to the longer gearing(20brake and side) the car woke up big time but when i put the PR12 in its lazy on the bottom and wakes up when i change to the 18 brake and side pulley.
Mega is running a 2607 pipe which it likes and performs with and the PR12 has a Skyline VR12 or JP/Nova 2601.

What it comes down too is being prepared to try combos and do the stick time to get the car working for you and the track.A good pit man is also helpful if possible.
I must say again i found Muppets spool setup to be so close to perfect for my track and would recommend it as a starting setup for a low to medium grip track with tight and fast corners.
That is a way COOOL program cheers man!!!
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Old 07-16-2007, 02:03 AM
  #7653  
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Originally Posted by grub
frankie
mate i ran 52/22 47/17 gears with a 26 tooth frount side belt with great success for the last 6 months
i had a 1.8 m slit on frount tyres
i found there was little diffrents between the standed and ed trans .
even my lap times have havent changed
i lied the ed is more responce down low, good for our track
hope this helps
hat is the Ultimate gearing ratio we should aim guys, my track is rather long straight very flowing fast smooth corners with only 3 tight corners


help needed for a gearing setup
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Old 07-16-2007, 02:11 AM
  #7654  
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Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
please do and yes i will try the 51T and 46t i do have!!!

cheers again all
File available @ http://www.rcworx.co.za/goodies/serpent-calc.zip
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Old 07-16-2007, 02:13 AM
  #7655  
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Originally Posted by casimirsa
OOPS! I only now saw razzor has posted a link!

Thanks Bud!
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Old 07-16-2007, 06:23 AM
  #7656  
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Ok guys need the best possible answer from the most expeinced here:

Its shock O Sorber time - me and a few here are wonderring on a better shock for the Super G4S/G4+ magic cars now here is a list i know of the top of my brain:

g4S - ...............?

g4+ - ................?

MTX4 - ..............?

Knack - ...............?

Xray - ..................?


what is gonna be esy to bleed setup and ready to bolt on besides the G4S shocks

plus cost factors would be nice if available


regards
Frankie
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Old 07-16-2007, 06:44 AM
  #7657  
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bud the std G4S shocks are good its just taking teh time to build them properly.
I feel its a uneccesary expense.
If anything id suggest getting a spare set that you can change to a alternative valving and oil combo to help with setting the car up.
only real criteria for std shocks is the blue Kfactory bladders.
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Old 07-16-2007, 07:02 AM
  #7658  
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Originally Posted by razzor
bud the std G4S shocks are good its just taking teh time to build them properly.
I feel its a uneccesary expense.
If anything id suggest getting a spare set that you can change to a alternative valving and oil combo to help with setting the car up.
only real criteria for std shocks is the blue Kfactory bladders.
i have the blue bladders, but can we get the bleeder cap like the mugens setup surely there is cap we could use to help the process quicker
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Old 07-16-2007, 07:05 AM
  #7659  
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Default setup question

if rear tire is too stick(stand?)... i can do 2 setup change.

1) reduce rear toe-in

2) change rear spring more hard.

what is different of these setup ?

on or off throttle difference?
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Old 07-16-2007, 07:11 AM
  #7660  
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also found out tonight very bad binding on new lower rear fly wing arms!

what is best solution to make free and easy up/down movement with out shocks connected arms?

Drill? greese?
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Old 07-16-2007, 07:16 AM
  #7661  
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Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
also found out tonight very bad binding on new lower rear fly wing arms!

what is best solution to make free and easy up/down movement with out shocks connected arms?

Drill? greese?
1) 3.01 drill on lower arm

2) also check upper arm.

3) check rear knucle arm king-pin nut is too tight

never use greese!!!
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Old 07-16-2007, 07:19 AM
  #7662  
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Originally Posted by gansei
1) 3.01 drill on lower arm

2) also check upper arm.

3) check rear knucle arm king-pin nut is too tight

never use greese!!!
roger that over, KAPISH no grease no problemo - mmmmmm 3.01 reamer me must buy!!!
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Old 07-16-2007, 07:31 AM
  #7663  
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If you dont have a ream put teh hinge pin on a drill or dremel and use some brasso as a abrasive and just spin it in the a-arm till you happy and then wash with a good solvent or motor cleaner.
Thats what i do and less chance of going too big on the hole.
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Old 07-16-2007, 07:35 AM
  #7664  
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Originally Posted by razzor
If you dont have a ream put teh hinge pin on a drill or dremel and use some brasso as a abrasive and just spin it in the a-arm till you happy and then wash with a good solvent or motor cleaner.
Thats what i do and less chance of going too big on the hole.
smart man - nice tip
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Old 07-16-2007, 07:44 AM
  #7665  
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Hudy do a 3mm reamer for wishbones, its very good. But mine are fine, are you sure you havent got a bent hinge pin ?

Shocks, Nothing wrong with the G4S shocks, the G4+ would be a bit easier to build with the bleed holes.....But I build my shocks and then leave them, I would only rebuild them if there seems to be a problem with one. If built properley they should last ages.....

Good Luck.
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