Serpent 960....
#2386
#2387
new3,
thnx for information. I am intresting at your setup. Can you post me your setup?
btw. Thnx all your guys, Nigelnugets, new3, darint, jhonny...etc. for your. I noticed very usefull information and will try this weekend.
thnx for information. I am intresting at your setup. Can you post me your setup?
btw. Thnx all your guys, Nigelnugets, new3, darint, jhonny...etc. for your. I noticed very usefull information and will try this weekend.
#2388
front:
shocks: 2 holes 400wt. mugan, Serpent purple
hangers -1 inside hole
track: 253
caster2 mm behind camber 2 degrees
droop 0
ackerman wide long (note if you have to much steering, wide short)
wos steering nuckles 1 left 2 right 1 tow outboth sides
tires 68 mm shore 38
shock tower lower hole
lenth 3 mm short
ride height 7
rear:
shock 2 holes 400wt mugan, serpent purple
rear roll center middle
upper rear arm outside hole
track 265
rear lower arm out for swaybar and they are flat
mount to the out side hole on rear body mount
Body; central lola mount with hole as marked
tires 75mm shore 38
rear droop 9
2 tow in 3 camber
mount to lowest hole on the shot tower
ride hight 8
note if you need more rear traction drop fron 75 to 74.5 this will give you
more traction. if you need more with the rear roll center bulk head in the middle and on the rear plate on the bottom to give anti squat. if this is to much then you have to get the 720 roll center pin and use there middle ones they are ofset so in the bulk head it is high in the back plate low. still working with the car but this is where i am at right now it carries a lot more speed into the corner. and it rotates better, and it recovers incredible. if it is to quick from side to side go to 500 wt mugan or serpent 35 wt. if you want a little more drop rear ride height to 7.5. again this setup is not for everybody, it is very agressive. i have given you some note on how i am control the feel of the car. try things one at a time. and i remind you this setup requires a differ driving style so if you try you will have to getuse to it. dont use a lot of breaks it will spin out the car. you will have to use throddle tocontol the car
Last edited by new3; 07-11-2007 at 12:18 AM.
#2389
oh yeh i forgot i use for cental rc there transmission conversion cr 504. this help the car off the corner
#2390
#2391
Cimri- I am not sure how the Blitz body you are running compares to others, but I would urge you to try the Central Lola body, that seems to give great steering...
#2392
Registered User
ok
front:
shocks: 2 holes 400wt. mugan, Serpent purple
hangers -1 inside hole
track: 253
caster2 mm behind camber 2 degrees
droop 0
ackerman wide long (note if you have to much steering, wide short)
wos steering nuckles 1 left 2 right 1 tow outboth sides
tires 68 mm shore 38
shock tower lower hole
lenth 3 mm short
ride height 7
rear:
shock 2 holes 400wt mugan, serpent purple
rear roll center middle
upper rear arm outside hole
track 265
rear lower arm out for swaybar and they are flat
mount to the out side hole on rear body mount
Body; central lola mount with hole as marked
tires 75mm shore 38
rear droop 9
2 tow in 3 camber
mount to lowest hole on the shot tower
ride hight 8
note if you need more rear traction drop fron 75 to 74.5 this will give you
more traction. if you need more with the rear roll center bulk head in the middle and on the rear plate on the bottom to give anti squat. if this is to much then you have to get the 720 roll center pin and use there middle ones they are ofset so in the bulk head it is high in the back plate low. still working with the car but this is where i am at right now it carries a lot more speed into the corner. and it rotates better, and it recovers incredible. if it is to quick from side to side go to 500 wt mugan or serpent 35 wt. if you want a little more drop rear ride height to 7.5. again this setup is not for everybody, it is very agressive. i have given you some note on how i am control the feel of the car. try things one at a time. and i remind you this setup requires a differ driving style so if you try you will have to getuse to it. dont use a lot of breaks it will spin out the car. you will have to use throddle tocontol the car
front:
shocks: 2 holes 400wt. mugan, Serpent purple
hangers -1 inside hole
track: 253
caster2 mm behind camber 2 degrees
droop 0
ackerman wide long (note if you have to much steering, wide short)
wos steering nuckles 1 left 2 right 1 tow outboth sides
tires 68 mm shore 38
shock tower lower hole
lenth 3 mm short
ride height 7
rear:
shock 2 holes 400wt mugan, serpent purple
rear roll center middle
upper rear arm outside hole
track 265
rear lower arm out for swaybar and they are flat
mount to the out side hole on rear body mount
Body; central lola mount with hole as marked
tires 75mm shore 38
rear droop 9
2 tow in 3 camber
mount to lowest hole on the shot tower
ride hight 8
note if you need more rear traction drop fron 75 to 74.5 this will give you
more traction. if you need more with the rear roll center bulk head in the middle and on the rear plate on the bottom to give anti squat. if this is to much then you have to get the 720 roll center pin and use there middle ones they are ofset so in the bulk head it is high in the back plate low. still working with the car but this is where i am at right now it carries a lot more speed into the corner. and it rotates better, and it recovers incredible. if it is to quick from side to side go to 500 wt mugan or serpent 35 wt. if you want a little more drop rear ride height to 7.5. again this setup is not for everybody, it is very agressive. i have given you some note on how i am control the feel of the car. try things one at a time. and i remind you this setup requires a differ driving style so if you try you will have to getuse to it. dont use a lot of breaks it will spin out the car. you will have to use throddle tocontol the car
#2393
#2394
Registered User
#2395
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
#2396
actually i am not i race out at crystal park, i have been racing for about 20 years i get help from other people for tuning motors. but i do my own setups. i take what the manufacturer and run the car that way for about a month and see howthey want the car to react. if i like it so be it if not you cange one setting at a time to get your car to reacrt as you would like it. you can go to KamikazeRCRacing.com. talk to sam and nigel. idf you come to crystal park raceway walter diaz races down here he is a serpent team driver as is nigel. one of the best things that you can do is bench race. this is how you learn things. in fact i believe bt express is holding the first of a series of races at crystal park and sun valley. most racers are very approachable so bring your car ask questions and learn about your car. kamakaze hobbies is in the area so just call them. ive seen walter and nigel fix peoples cars at the track. i help, glen williams, chris verono, robbie collins, if you catch mike swagger on a practice day and he not to busy he'll help too. he wont fix your car but he could give you advice.most of the racers are very helpful. race days can be very frustrating at times so it isn't the best time to try to get your car fixed. so come on down i'm sure someone will help you. what track do you race at?
#2397
Some info on LiPo rx.; I have been using a THP 1320 in my 960 for about 1 1/2 seasons. It bit the dust recently.. I attribute its demise to the use of a brass battery holder. I recently made the holder to add weight. The brass cunducts heat from the chassis-engine and passes it along to the battery. LiPo is good up to about 140-150 degrees. Track temp at the Byrons race was about 150 degrees. In long races the chassis can get quite hot. This is all a formula for LiPo failure. At the Byrons race, my pack dumped at about the 56 minute mark. When the pack was good, it would go for hours.
I went back to the fiberglass holder and replaced the pack.
I don't know what the brass holders from Serpent look like, but I would recomend thermal insulation between the holder and chassis. I will mill the mounting tabs down a bit on mine & mount with shock o-rings between chassis and holder.
I went back to the fiberglass holder and replaced the pack.
I don't know what the brass holders from Serpent look like, but I would recomend thermal insulation between the holder and chassis. I will mill the mounting tabs down a bit on mine & mount with shock o-rings between chassis and holder.
#2398
Hi Nigelnuggets,
I tried your setup this weekend. this was what need. It works great with no problem and I had a lot of steering
@ new3. I'll try your setup tomorow and let you now.
thnx
I tried your setup this weekend. this was what need. It works great with no problem and I had a lot of steering
@ new3. I'll try your setup tomorow and let you now.
thnx
#2399