Mugen MTX-3
Re: re: tyre truing
Originally posted by xtreme888
Hiya,
I never true my tires in my MTX 3 ( i do in 1/8th !!!)......Found that trued tires did not affected lap time that much...actually i was quicker with tires out of the box rather than with the recommended split. I normally uses one set front to three set rear ( tired kawahara conversion 16/19...rear still wear at the same rate....hence gone back to stock setup.....
There are some good drivers at my club, whom will always truing their tires. i am not exactly slow at my club, as when i race with some top drivers such as mark green, i would be second and about 0.5sec behind.
Can any other MTX 3 owners out there verified that truing tires had not made any different to their lap times, and some explanations why not ? Coz i don`t know why....whereas in 1/8th it`s very important !!!
Thanks
Hiya,
I never true my tires in my MTX 3 ( i do in 1/8th !!!)......Found that trued tires did not affected lap time that much...actually i was quicker with tires out of the box rather than with the recommended split. I normally uses one set front to three set rear ( tired kawahara conversion 16/19...rear still wear at the same rate....hence gone back to stock setup.....
There are some good drivers at my club, whom will always truing their tires. i am not exactly slow at my club, as when i race with some top drivers such as mark green, i would be second and about 0.5sec behind.
Can any other MTX 3 owners out there verified that truing tires had not made any different to their lap times, and some explanations why not ? Coz i don`t know why....whereas in 1/8th it`s very important !!!
Thanks
Where do you race? Which track I mean?
Tech Adept
Sow and Steady
Hiya,
Down at crystal palace ( London ).....what about yourself ?
Down at crystal palace ( London ).....what about yourself ?
Re: tire wear
Originally posted by Slotmachine
You will never get a fast set up that has perfectly even tire wear.It just doesnt work like that.
Where do you live? You can get great tires at a low price here in the states. WWW.RCTexas.com This guy also carrys a low cost pretty descent tire truer,made by G.Q.
As far as the pullys, I have always used the stock ones.Do you run on a permanant track or a Car Parking lot?
You will never get a fast set up that has perfectly even tire wear.It just doesnt work like that.
Where do you live? You can get great tires at a low price here in the states. WWW.RCTexas.com This guy also carrys a low cost pretty descent tire truer,made by G.Q.
As far as the pullys, I have always used the stock ones.Do you run on a permanant track or a Car Parking lot?
Ecuador, Southamerica, running on a new race track. rear tires end up 6mm smaller than front when using stock belts and one way. if using the same compound. such as 42. any suggestions on truing at least the front ones, i was thinking about 3-4mm split. so the handling will not differ too much as the tires wear out.
if using the front diff with stock pulleys, the wear is the same?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Re: Re: tire wear
Originally posted by Seisick
Ecuador, Southamerica, running on a new race track. rear tires end up 6mm smaller than front when using stock belts and one way. if using the same compound. such as 42. any suggestions on truing at least the front ones, i was thinking about 3-4mm split. so the handling will not differ too much as the tires wear out.
if using the front diff with stock pulleys, the wear is the same?
Ecuador, Southamerica, running on a new race track. rear tires end up 6mm smaller than front when using stock belts and one way. if using the same compound. such as 42. any suggestions on truing at least the front ones, i was thinking about 3-4mm split. so the handling will not differ too much as the tires wear out.
if using the front diff with stock pulleys, the wear is the same?
When I was a the Nats. in Ohio, I started the tires at 58mm and could run practice, 4 qual. and the warm ups for the qual`s.
For 1 hour mains, the racers started the tires out at 60mm, and still had tire when the race was over.
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Re: Re: Re: tire wear
Originally posted by Slotmachine
Here in the USA a lot of guys run 40 fronts with 42 rears. If the rears are wearing 6mm , are you talking about starting them as new? Have you tried to true them down first?
When I was a the Nats. in Ohio, I started the tires at 58mm and could run practice, 4 qual. and the warm ups for the qual`s.
For 1 hour mains, the racers started the tires out at 60mm, and still had tire when the race was over.
Here in the USA a lot of guys run 40 fronts with 42 rears. If the rears are wearing 6mm , are you talking about starting them as new? Have you tried to true them down first?
When I was a the Nats. in Ohio, I started the tires at 58mm and could run practice, 4 qual. and the warm ups for the qual`s.
For 1 hour mains, the racers started the tires out at 60mm, and still had tire when the race was over.
generally F & R are run the same with the front's possibly slightly harder- ie. 40 rear/42 or 45 fronts.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Re: Re: Re: Re: tire wear
Originally posted by cdelong
I've never heard of anyone running softer fronts than rears......
I've never heard of anyone running softer fronts than rears......
Tech Apprentice
hi guys. i am new to mtx3 and 1/10 scale.
what is the correct way to setup brakes with the oe-way up front.
cheers??
what is the correct way to setup brakes with the oe-way up front.
cheers??
I will often run softer fronts than rears, it helps even out the tyre wear and is by far the easiest way to get steering. On my home track I run one front 35 and the rest 37, most don't know how I manage to go inside them on the fastest sweeper.
I bet most have radios with steering balance and dual rate but never use the features they paid the extra dollars for.
I bet most have radios with steering balance and dual rate but never use the features they paid the extra dollars for.
Re: Re: Re: tire wear
Originally posted by Slotmachine
Here in the USA a lot of guys run 40 fronts with 42 rears. If the rears are wearing 6mm , are you talking about starting them as new? Have you tried to true them down first?
When I was a the Nats. in Ohio, I started the tires at 58mm and could run practice, 4 qual. and the warm ups for the qual`s.
For 1 hour mains, the racers started the tires out at 60mm, and still had tire when the race was over.
Here in the USA a lot of guys run 40 fronts with 42 rears. If the rears are wearing 6mm , are you talking about starting them as new? Have you tried to true them down first?
When I was a the Nats. in Ohio, I started the tires at 58mm and could run practice, 4 qual. and the warm ups for the qual`s.
For 1 hour mains, the racers started the tires out at 60mm, and still had tire when the race was over.
I´ve never tried running front softer than rears, but according to slotmachine,I will never get a fast set up that has perfectly even tire wear.It just doesnt work like that, but anyway I´ll give it a try compare times, handling wear, etc; and the other temporary solution is to use only the fronts, and wear them down.
now here´s the thing that I´d like suggestions, if using untrued 42 ellegis all around, stock pulleys and one way, the rear ones end up 6mm smaller than fronts. To what diameter do I have to wear down the front ones (remember I dont have truer now) so handling is consistent and wear is similar? I was thinking on running the front ones at 62 and rears not trued at 65mm. suggestions!
Seisick, perhaps you should get 3 pair of rears to one set of fronts and change rears with every tank or heat, get a good vernier and always keep the front smaller than the rears with a one way, and very close to the same size with a diff.
To do truely fast lap times you will need access to a truer even if just to radius the edges.
To do truely fast lap times you will need access to a truer even if just to radius the edges.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by KyoshoKev
hi guys. i am new to mtx3 and 1/10 scale.
what is the correct way to setup brakes with the oe-way up front.
cheers??
hi guys. i am new to mtx3 and 1/10 scale.
what is the correct way to setup brakes with the oe-way up front.
cheers??
seriously u just need to set your braking so that it would not tail out....that is how i did to mine....u wouldn't get the kind of braking that is available with the gear diff/solid....good luck
Tech Apprentice
ok.. i was seting up brake last nite...
i do like this....
set brake epa to max.
drive in a straight line and then apply full brake.... if it spin out then decrease epa..
repeat untill when i brake in a straight line, the rear does not kick out
would this be a good approach.
this would give me max braking but not enough to make the car spin out?
also, other than the fuel tank hole in the body, should i make more body holes? or the less holes the better for better aerodynamics etc.
cheers
i do like this....
set brake epa to max.
drive in a straight line and then apply full brake.... if it spin out then decrease epa..
repeat untill when i brake in a straight line, the rear does not kick out
would this be a good approach.
this would give me max braking but not enough to make the car spin out?
also, other than the fuel tank hole in the body, should i make more body holes? or the less holes the better for better aerodynamics etc.
cheers
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by KyoshoKev
ok.. i was seting up brake last nite...
i do like this....
set brake epa to max.
drive in a straight line and then apply full brake.... if it spin out then decrease epa..
repeat untill when i brake in a straight line, the rear does not kick out
would this be a good approach.
this would give me max braking but not enough to make the car spin out?
also, other than the fuel tank hole in the body, should i make more body holes? or the less holes the better for better aerodynamics etc.
cheers
ok.. i was seting up brake last nite...
i do like this....
set brake epa to max.
drive in a straight line and then apply full brake.... if it spin out then decrease epa..
repeat untill when i brake in a straight line, the rear does not kick out
would this be a good approach.
this would give me max braking but not enough to make the car spin out?
also, other than the fuel tank hole in the body, should i make more body holes? or the less holes the better for better aerodynamics etc.
cheers
Re: Sow and Steady
Originally posted by xtreme888
Hiya,
Down at crystal palace ( London ).....what about yourself ?
Hiya,
Down at crystal palace ( London ).....what about yourself ?
Do you have track pictures of Crystal Palace? I plan to do the nationals this year and can't find much info about your club. In fact, do you have a website?
Thanks and looking forward to meeting you one of these days a t Crystal Palace!
Re: Re: Re: Re: tire wear
Originally posted by cdelong
I've never heard of anyone running softer fronts than rears......
generally F & R are run the same with the front's possibly slightly harder- ie. 40 rear/42 or 45 fronts.
I've never heard of anyone running softer fronts than rears......
generally F & R are run the same with the front's possibly slightly harder- ie. 40 rear/42 or 45 fronts.
Lastly, it is always easier to dial out steering rather than not have enough.