Mugen MTX-3
01-17-2004, 09:02 PM
#9706
That's what you said about the GPM aluminum knuckles when i bought them in May and they have been holding up wonderfull.
Since I bought them, I never broke a front hub again no CVD's either.
No DNF's due to brushing a pipe anymore......
Since I bought them, I never broke a front hub again no CVD's either.
No DNF's due to brushing a pipe anymore......
01-17-2004, 10:08 PM
#9707
Originally posted by stefan
That's what you said about the GPM aluminum knuckles when i bought them in May and they have been holding up wonderfull.
Since I bought them, I never broke a front hub again no CVD's either.
No DNF's due to brushing a pipe anymore......
That's what you said about the GPM aluminum knuckles when i bought them in May and they have been holding up wonderfull.
Since I bought them, I never broke a front hub again no CVD's either.
No DNF's due to brushing a pipe anymore......
01-17-2004, 10:47 PM
#9709
Originally posted by B
which company makes delrin knuckles for the mtx-3?
im interested
which company makes delrin knuckles for the mtx-3?
im interested
01-18-2004, 06:10 AM
#9712
Originally posted by Manticore
right , from May to now and even in future. GPM stuff are way over price outside HK and their quality are just worst then the word "Poor" to descript. If I choose an alternative knuckle, I will go to derlin one from those Jap aftermarket companies.
right , from May to now and even in future. GPM stuff are way over price outside HK and their quality are just worst then the word "Poor" to descript. If I choose an alternative knuckle, I will go to derlin one from those Jap aftermarket companies.
GPM parts are only good for no stress and no wear areas of the car!
01-18-2004, 06:44 AM
#9713
Originally posted by tIANcI
GPM titanium is called CRAPTANIUM ... I had a NTC3 and I got the GPM Universals because they were cheaper than the originals and also because they looked touger and were Ti ... it was the shitz ... the joints wore out in no time, like about 2 months, the original MIP Al ones lasted me 6 months with ot much wear ...
GPM titanium is called CRAPTANIUM ... I had a NTC3 and I got the GPM Universals because they were cheaper than the originals and also because they looked touger and were Ti ... it was the shitz ... the joints wore out in no time, like about 2 months, the original MIP Al ones lasted me 6 months with ot much wear ...
01-18-2004, 07:21 AM
#9714
Originally posted by Manticore
there hasnt any one yet. kawahara made front/rear hub for MTX2 tho.
there hasnt any one yet. kawahara made front/rear hub for MTX2 tho.
Btw, a set of those was like $40.
I paid $18 for my GPM's
01-18-2004, 07:41 AM
#9715
Originally posted by stefan
I had the ones from Kawahara for my MTX2 and they broke faster than the original ones.
Btw, a set of those was like $40.
I paid $18 for my GPM's
I had the ones from Kawahara for my MTX2 and they broke faster than the original ones.
Btw, a set of those was like $40.
I paid $18 for my GPM's
01-18-2004, 07:42 AM
#9716
Tech Fanatic
well if GPM is craptanium then whats the best???
01-18-2004, 08:47 AM
#9717
Mugen CVD's combined with aluminum GPM knuckles.
No more problems for me since May, trust me on this one.
No more problems for me since May, trust me on this one.
01-18-2004, 08:52 AM
#9718
Tech Fanatic
i would prob. do that, but i need my car to be light!
01-18-2004, 09:01 AM
#9719
Tech Fanatic
anybody know of any other set ups besides stock and osaka's?
01-18-2004, 09:26 AM
#9720
It was mentioned earlier that if you crank down on the steering servo saver more (tighter setting) you are less likely to snap a cvd or bend a cvd. How come? cause I have bent the fronts several times (none snapped yet).