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Old 01-17-2004, 10:02 PM   #9706
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That's what you said about the GPM aluminum knuckles when i bought them in May and they have been holding up wonderfull.

Since I bought them, I never broke a front hub again no CVD's either.

No DNF's due to brushing a pipe anymore......
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Old 01-17-2004, 11:08 PM   #9707
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Quote:
Originally posted by stefan
That's what you said about the GPM aluminum knuckles when i bought them in May and they have been holding up wonderfull.

Since I bought them, I never broke a front hub again no CVD's either.

No DNF's due to brushing a pipe anymore......
right , from May to now and even in future. GPM stuff are way over price outside HK and their quality are just worst then the word "Poor" to descript. If I choose an alternative knuckle, I will go to derlin one from those Jap aftermarket companies.
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Old 01-17-2004, 11:44 PM   #9708
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which company makes delrin knuckles for the mtx-3?

im interested
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Old 01-17-2004, 11:47 PM   #9709
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Quote:
Originally posted by B
which company makes delrin knuckles for the mtx-3?

im interested
there hasnt any one yet. kawahara made front/rear hub for MTX2 tho.
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Old 01-17-2004, 11:58 PM   #9710
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really!

hehe, cool, lets wait then
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Old 01-18-2004, 12:05 AM   #9711
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Last edited by B; 01-18-2004 at 01:30 AM.
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Old 01-18-2004, 07:10 AM   #9712
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
right , from May to now and even in future. GPM stuff are way over price outside HK and their quality are just worst then the word "Poor" to descript. If I choose an alternative knuckle, I will go to derlin one from those Jap aftermarket companies.
GPM titanium is called CRAPTANIUM ... I had a NTC3 and I got the GPM Universals because they were cheaper than the originals and also because they looked touger and were Ti ... it was the shitz ... the joints wore out in no time, like about 2 months, the original MIP Al ones lasted me 6 months with ot much wear ...

GPM parts are only good for no stress and no wear areas of the car!
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Old 01-18-2004, 07:44 AM   #9713
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Quote:
Originally posted by tIANcI
GPM titanium is called CRAPTANIUM ... I had a NTC3 and I got the GPM Universals because they were cheaper than the originals and also because they looked touger and were Ti ... it was the shitz ... the joints wore out in no time, like about 2 months, the original MIP Al ones lasted me 6 months with ot much wear ...
Just at risk of falling into off-topic... best universals for the NTC3 with a one-way in front were the MIP steel ones, the stock aluminium ones didn't hold very well the punishment (worked fine at the rear).
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Old 01-18-2004, 08:21 AM   #9714
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
there hasnt any one yet. kawahara made front/rear hub for MTX2 tho.
I had the ones from Kawahara for my MTX2 and they broke faster than the original ones.

Btw, a set of those was like $40.

I paid $18 for my GPM's
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Old 01-18-2004, 08:41 AM   #9715
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Quote:
Originally posted by stefan
I had the ones from Kawahara for my MTX2 and they broke faster than the original ones.

Btw, a set of those was like $40.

I paid $18 for my GPM's
if alloy is your way to go, no one will stop you dude !
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Old 01-18-2004, 08:42 AM   #9716
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well if GPM is craptanium then whats the best???
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Old 01-18-2004, 09:47 AM   #9717
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Mugen CVD's combined with aluminum GPM knuckles.

No more problems for me since May, trust me on this one.
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Old 01-18-2004, 09:52 AM   #9718
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i would prob. do that, but i need my car to be light!
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Old 01-18-2004, 10:01 AM   #9719
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anybody know of any other set ups besides stock and osaka's?
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Old 01-18-2004, 10:26 AM   #9720
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It was mentioned earlier that if you crank down on the steering servo saver more (tighter setting) you are less likely to snap a cvd or bend a cvd. How come? cause I have bent the fronts several times (none snapped yet).
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