raffaelli

iTrader: (13)

What pipe produces the most torque?

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

Wheel hop can sometimes be caused by too much rear traction. I myself expierenced this today when I ran 35 shore tires, when I switched to 37 shore the problem went away.

tIANcI

loosenut - just cut a little bit of fuel tubing of about 2-3 mm, do not let the dogbones bind at all ... must have some free play

raffaelli - go for the longer pises, or those with more volume for more torque ... I know one thing, I changes my pinion and spurs for my MTX3 to a 8.08 and 5.05 gearing, the acceleration is heck of a great for those smallish tracks.

Slotmachine - how does softer shore means a bouncier ride? I am running 35 shore and its lovely. No such thing as any hop of any kind.

Fisher890

^^^^^ Newest MTX3 HO^^^^^

God I love this Kit.............Where am i gonna screw it up? I'm up to The servo installation. I Have a slight tick in the Drivetrain that I can feel its not all together yet but this kinna bugs me.Anything I need to worry about or will it Run in? How Fast should my steering servo be will a Hitec 525MG (.13@ 6v) do it or do I need faster?So Sorry HPI The Box Was SOOO Heavy I couldn't get it to my car.........(R40) loses to Mugen.........
Any Building and set up info before I finish this kit would be GREATLY appricated.

Corse-R

Rafaelli: For me the pipe with most torque is the RB X12 pipe, gives a 'distinctive' grunt to your engines, couple it with a RB short manifold (RB 1700-193), then cut the manifold to a pipe lenght of 97 - 102mm long. Refer to RB site on how to measure the pipe lenght.

Slotmachine/Tianci: The wheels can hop due to several causes, this ranges from an insufficient hidraulic/very stiff spring combo to a too soft tyre for the track conditions. In this case the tyres grip a lot and the handling is weird, grips so much but slides suddenly without previous advise. A too soft tyre makes the car harsh to drive due to foam flex and excessive grip.

Corse-R

If you have one tight poing on your drivetrain could be caused to several reasons. This is a list to check:
- Check the pulleys, probably you have some dirt or plastic flash in one of those. Check too the center belt tension, should not have tight, needs to have some milimeters of travel to absorb the engine force without slipping (haven't seen up to today one belt who slips, but...).
- Check too the brake disk. Stock pads needs to be sanded to clear the disk. Sometimes the center disk spider (the piece in aluminium comes with some flash or isn't totally straight). Grab some 400 - 600 grit sandpaper and a dab of water and polish slightly the two sides, you will see what I'm talking.
- Check too if this tight point coincides with a moment when the dogbone (any dogbone) moves slightly and binds on the outdrives.

Rafaelli: Just remembered now. If you want a strong pipe with good mid rpms and capable of getting high rpms. A pipe to check is the Novarossi 51224, slightly longer than the 52604 one (pipe comes from their .15 line, but with the normal 'In-Line' .12 pipe manifold it fits perfect. PM me if you want more details about this pipe. Sometimes is very hard to find in the correct combo (with the proper manifold).

joseviejo

I installed a front lower arm from my MTX-2 in the MTX-3 and did not see any problem. I reced it this weekend. Tried the upper arm and had a little bit of play in it, so did not use it.

Jose

raffaelli

iTrader: (13)

Thanks, do you know which one has the most volume?

tekrsq

Chris--I'm sure you know this, but you probably should wait until you choose your engine, then get a pipe to compliment the engine. My Richey engines produce MAD amounts of bottom end, so I went with a pipe to help the top end, and just adjusted the gearing & clutch for the bottom. I got the best of both worlds. I'm running the RDLogics ROAR legal "Turbo" on pice pipe and absolutely LOOOOOOOOOVE this pipe. Another good combo for my setup was the RB X15 pipe with a Nova manifold set at 98mm (but the stinger isn't legal for ROAR .12 racing). The RB X12 with the Nova manifold did pretty good, but lacked the top end I wanted.

GOOD LUCK!!!!!!

loosenut

Another weird prob.

I've noticed after a day of racing that my front wheel nuts have sunken into my wheels??!! Or partly ate into it. So it was hella hard to take them off. Also the inside part (hex) was worn to the point that I can't use them again because of too much play in the plastic hex...is this normal?? Or did I tighten them too tight?

Will a washer on the outside of the wheel (between the wheel nut and wheel) help??

G

Cartman

yep deff fit a washer, and dont tighten too tight. i would but some alloy wheel hexe's as well if you do not have any

loosenut

yea...I do have the aluminum hex adaptors....thx alot. When I mentioned play in the hex - I ment on the wheel - not the adaptor.


G

Cartman

quess you not want to match your user name then!!!!!

alvinm

I have about 2.5 deg.'s of rear toe.I'm using gray rear shocks.I think its possibly the tight rear suspension ( I needed more steering).I was running 35's but switched to 37 with the same wheel hop.I'll try 40's in the rear and then a softer spring.Its weird because it wont traction roll.I also took it apart to see if anything is binding.Any other possibilities,thanks.

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

go to a thicker shock oil