and also the car seems to be more durable i broke 2 jaco wheels in the cold yesterday 40 degrees here and windy no damage to the car but those wheels fell into pieces

Brake binding
 

Hi Guys,

I sorted the brakes.

I glued the pads on with rubber glue + used a vice to hold them over night.

The brakes were binding/locked after above.

I sanded the pads but the brakes were still binding.

I then bent the pins VERY slightly & sanded the disc bump stop on the rear top brace untill the brakes moved freely.

This is a minor problem with the MTX3.

By the way . . . . . .


Cricket is for GIRLS

Footy is a BOYS game

If you want to play some real sport try Hurling and Gaelic Football, they are REAL mens sport!!!!!!

All the best

after i sanded the brakes they still bound slightly but after a minute or two of running they were not binding anymore

The proper ways are:

1. cut the excess brake pads material around the holes where the holding pin pass through.
2. Widen the holes a little which cause the binding mainly.
3. Sand the disc pads
4. Sand the front edge of the roll pole to round corner that help.

Cartaman, I did drilled the pistons of the shocks when I drove MTX-2, but I 've found that it make the car less stable so I gave it up, My MTX-3 with the stock shock pistons works really great, I am going to stick with it.

It's transition from left to right is very good, and the ass end is a lot more stable. It's literally a case of trying to set the car up to be more unstable

again sounds like mtx-2 trait but the end test will be when equal drivers come up against each other then we will really see:nod:

I still out qualified you Joss.:p

I know how to assemble the brakes properly:D

Lucky for you i was not concerned about completing a heat Cindy.... Ave lap times tell a thousand words! Fastest lap times tell 10,000!! Next time the car wont be completed at the track and the motor might actually get a tune. Bitch

This car was an absolute pleasure to build...I worked on it a little each day for the past week but total build time was only about 5 hours. It wouldn't have been that long were it not for the friggin brakes. I want the drive-train completely free which is why I'll soon go through and replace all bearings.

After sanding the hell of the pads, bending the hell out of the brake stop posts, and lightly Ca'ing the discs together so there was no gap between them, the brakes still dragged slightly.

Finally I just took your approach ME-student and took the left pad off. I just need enough brakes to stop the thing in the pits anyway. Can't wait to get this thing on a track.

Another note 5 AAA rechargeables, a few deans bars, sauter and a plug = < $20 for a 650 mah pack, and mine took 800 mah after 1 cycle.

I noticed the same thing with the Jaco's. They are relatively durable during normal temps but when cold they will disintegrate around the center of the spokes upon impact.

The wheels that CRC puts on their foams are VERY tough though. I've ran one pair of fronts for 5 races now.

Earlier I posted the proper way of fixing the brake problem, sounds like no one paid attention, so here it is again.

grind down the brake guide on the rear cross member, this should solve your problem.:D

Grind down the what what? :D

I think Robbie is talking about the plastic piece that holds down your sway bar and fits over the brake shaft. It has a plastic ridge on the bottom that spaces the left brake pad too close to the disc. By grinding down I'm guessing robbie is saying sand it some or cut it off all together? It seems to me if you cut it off all together you might as well take off the left pad.

I will say if this brake problem turns out to be the only issue on this newly designed car mugen has done an awesome job with R&D and quality control.