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Originally posted by hooked_on Yes Keith Mackrel, He is Mr Yokomo since buying your old electric. I tried to convert him to associated, but to no avail. There will still be one Yok gp car there. |
rjl,
did you put the Rossi in your "3" car? It looked like it would be a tight fit. |
Originally posted by SHARP Is the clutch the same as supplied mith mtx2 prospec? The mtx2 manual says nothing about shims on the inside of the clutch bell. The motor cannot provide drive until the bell is pushed out against the thrust bearing can it? Is there any reasons you would want more or less slop in clutch bell? All info appreciated! Varying the endplay on an adjustable clutch can assist in power delivery but it is personal and depends on your driving style. |
Originally posted by acs rjl, did you put the Rossi in your "3" car? It looked like it would be a tight fit. |
when i tried to put a pixi in my friends tc3 the header melted the fuel exit port on the tank is that what you mean shorter or do you mean the new 5 port pixi
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Can someone post a picture of the Pixi engine never seen one before thanx.:)
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Wow very nice looks like a serio motor.
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Is this the motor of choice where you live?
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hey robby nobody runs a pixi at crystal park
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TFT Race!
Waz up Robbie! See ya next week at TFT. Now get back to work.
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Thanks for the help with the clutch everyone!! my car is set for its first run finally. unfortunately im back at boarding school so it will be another 15 days till i do get to drive it:cry: :cry:
by the way, im not the only one who has ever had these problems with rims not coming off the axle! Robbie tells me that he has done it, and it is due to the axle actually threading into the wheel, then when the wheel is on, u cannot screw it off!!! well, with some heat, and tugging, and a little frustration, the wheels are off, and drilled sust a little wider so the go on, and come off!!! |
Originally posted by SHARP Is the clutch the same as supplied mith mtx2 prospec? The mtx2 manual says nothing about shims on the inside of the clutch bell. The motor cannot provide drive until the bell is pushed out against the thrust bearing can it? Is there any reasons you would want more or less slop in clutch bell? All info appreciated! there is no mention of the shims in the inside, this is a racers trick in certain conditions the clutch bell can be pushed into the shoe at idle causing an engine cut, adding spacers makes it so when you push the bell to the engine it does not drag. Why do you want end float and how much?? basically its a tunning aid, more clearane will cause the clutch to engage harsh, less clearence will give a smoother engagment. for best info go here http://www.rctek.com/info_centax_clutch.html As for changing the width, so you never ran your mtx 2 narrow or wider for differant tracks? or the Kawahara rear end, 2mm at the most wont make that much change especially with mtx spacers |
Originally posted by Nytrochaos Thanks for the help with the clutch everyone!! my car is set for its first run finally. unfortunately im back at boarding school so it will be another 15 days till i do get to drive it:cry: :cry: by the way, im not the only one who has ever had these problems with rims not coming off the axle! Robbie tells me that he has done it, and it is due to the axle actually threading into the wheel, then when the wheel is on, u cannot screw it off!!! well, with some heat, and tugging, and a little frustration, the wheels are off, and drilled sust a little wider so the go on, and come off!!! |
I noticed Mugen USA has moved to a new building, does anyone have the new phone number for customer service or address of the new building?
Thanks! |
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