FREAKAH

You can see the mark where the "extension" still skips over on the lower arm. A little longer screw would be perfect.



I also thought of mounting a "stop" on the lower arm to do the same thing.

TAW

iTrader: (18)

Has anybody ever put their mtx-3 on a set of tweak scales? I did this yesterday and could get the front dead on but in the back the right side was always heavier and just could not seem to make it balance. The car drive great but I also do not have the one-way installed and may not notice this slight rear tweak. Is the right side going to be heavier or should I start looking for problems?

Thanks
Troy

dtm

Should be good for testing the durability of Manti's MTX3 backend!! hehehe....

stefan

Freakah,

that's a very simple yet great solution. How is your car's steering? Still turning tight?

RClover

under hard impact, i believe the 'steering limiter' will pass the lower arm..

RClover

watchout manti, someone is coming your ass..

TAW

iTrader: (18)

For those that have used the Mugen tires which rims seem to hold up the best, the spokes or the dish?

Marktur

I raced at the killer track in Ft. Meyers, FL last week...was doing pretty good. I was on the lead lap in the A-Main, fighting against the leader who was trying to lap me....we were on the same lap, and it was not a qualifier, so I didn't give up my line - I was really finding the groove and going faster, so I stayed tight...he was pressuring me for like 4 laps...I had a bit more punch on the low end (running a Michael Salvin .12) and I shot ahead out of the chicane and then slowed to hit the hairpin before the pits...nobody's fault, but the timing was right that he nailed me right on the front left tire....I started the turn, and he had too much speed....broke the knuckle....man I was bummed. I had the anti-lock brakes set so good, that I could really enter a turn with brakes (and the one-way) and not have the back end slide out! So I was actually turning around the hairpin as he t-boned me. That hit would have broken ANY car, I suspect.

I actually fixed it and got back out there anyway just so I didn't DNF, but man, I love this car! This was my first weekend that I had a chance to really run it hard -- I'm impressed. Switched up from a TC3, which was like GLASS. (even with all the hopups)...

The MTX-3 drives like BUTTA !!!

Anyway, please you guys using the alum. knuckles - let us know how you did today! I don't want to invest in another set of sloppy Aluminum knuckles....what brand is best?

Also - with the CVD's...I learned that if there is ANY binding, even the slightest, it doesn't take much for ANY brand to split like the ones in the picture...You need to unhook the steering, turn the wheel by hand to the fullest throw, then slowly rotate the tire and make sure everything's seated properly. It should turn with NO resistance. The setscrew is what causes the binding. My buddy pointed that out to me when he checked over my car after I built it....hey, I've been into RC for 15 years, and it never hurts to let your buddy give it the quick "once-over" before race day!

Too hot to run today -- I'm opting for the pool instead! See you out at the track on Wednesday night for sure!

FREAKAH

Yes, the turning radius is still tight. I set my dual rate less than full lock so the stops doesn't affect it.

I'm still figuring out a way to mount a "stop" on the arm. Maybe a Kydex piece and some 2/56 screws and epoxy would work.

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

This wasn't from binding, this was from hitting the wall and ripping a wheel off the car.

B

iTrader: (13)

Is the Solid Front Diff an option for the Mtx-3?, if so, which company makes them?

and, would the solid front diff make the car push less than a front gear diff in a tight track?

thanks

Marktur

B...have you tried playing with the CASTER? When is it pushing -- entering the turn or exiting? If you need more bite entering the turn, try setting the arms more vertical...if you need more exiting the turn, then lay them down more...also, camber adjustments also help with the push. Sometime you gotta just ignore the numbers, and watch the performance.

I race on a tight track sometimes, and when I get home, I measure, and I usually end up with -3.5 on the outside left (big right hand sweeper, and -3 on the inside rear....that's what I need to do so I can stay on the power and keep the backend behind me as I exit the turn! Just watch tire wear, and try to keep the coning down (if you're running foam).

Hope that helps...
Mark

B

iTrader: (13)

are you using the ft gear diff?
or the one way??

Mark[GER]

Hi,

same thing on my car, the front left side is heavier then the right side. I tried everything to fix it but nothing helped, and got no tweak board, so....
And a tweak Board was never really a tool for a nitro in my eyes. The car is driving good, had no problems, but its quite awesome that the car is maybe "tweaked" with a good and clear build up.

Hope i can check that next week on a tweakboard.

greets from Germany
Mark

Mark[GER]

sorry double post