The metal chassis is also a big heat sink for your engine... Carbon is a bad conductor so you'll probably find your engine overheats running on a Carbon chassis

Oh my god! that makes perfect sense! I learn something new today again!

With TC shells overheating seems to occur but not a big deal of difference really. You will probably change your engine a month or 2 earlier.

But with the Lola shells their is very little difference in temps as the engine is constantly cooled anyway.

CG Lowering recipe....
 

For lowering your CG (and maybe your weight) the recipe is easy...

Some ideas...

DON'T Touch the chassis and steel screws that go on the underside of the chassis plate. All the rest is susceptible of weight removing (Titanium screws on the radio plate, titanium pillowballs on the upper side of the upright, keeping the lower of steel).

Keep your steering turnbuckles made of steel, are quite low on the car.

Lightening the transmission raises a little your CG (you're lightening some parts that go pretty low, but are reducing their polar moment of inertia so you get more power to move and change the speed of the wheels) but can be easily fixed putting some lead on the main chassis.

Do not swap the aluminium nuts for titanium ones.... Titanium weights more than aluminium, but swap all the screws on the upper side for titanium ones.

Swapping the stock disk brake for optional ones is a no-no... almost all of them are made of steel and previously you wanted to reduce weight on your transmission.

Next week I'll post some photos about all this with some interesting data.

And don't be fooled for the Titanium chassis.... Titanium has some advantages like memory shape, higher tensile strenght, but at same sheet thickness of a 7075 aluminium and Titanium (6AL-4V Grade 5 or 8) titanium has higher weight and their thermal conductivity is worse.

ok how i see it the chassis stock is 3mm, new one 4mm with BITs machined out, cant see it can be much lighter
c of g i agree with your bit

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...&postid=272266

I asked Robbie Collins about the weight (on Starting Grid). He said he'd find out next week. Personally, I hope it's heavier than stock. My car is barely race legal in it's stock form. I'm in the process of lightening drive train components, so I fear I'll be seriously underweight. Hopefully the new chassis is heavier to give me back some of the weight with the added benefits of it not being on rotating mass and it being low to help the CG.

My car weighed 57.3 oz. with a dry tank, bone stock, STS engine, 1-piece RD Pipe, HiTec electronics, Novak XXtra, Stratus 2.1... 60 oz. is the ROAR limitation I believe. :weird: :D :D :D

I beleive the MTX-3 uses the same brake disks as the MRX-3, if so this may be helpful and interesting.

Stock brake Disk (MRX-3) - 14 Grams
Kawahara Brake Disk - 15 grams
Mugen Optional Brake Disk - 13 Grams

Yep. The Kawahara is so beautiful! :nod:

kawahara disc rotor made with soft iron metal !! the hole for the adaptor pin deform and wear out fast !

most of kawahara hop up are eye candies ! ;) ;) ;) ;)

Ahhh... thanks Manticore.:tire:

does anyone know the roar minimum weight in grams?

my car w/body is 1795g no fuel no transponder

i got chassis from justrc its considerably heavier but i had bent the stock one this one is stronger and cheaper

engine mounts from justrc weigh 1/2 aluminum finned mounts

Uhm.... I want to suppose that ROAR minimum weight follows IFMAR advise of 1700 grams with no fuel nor transponder and with body.

Chassis should be massive to put those kind of weight on your light MTX3 all the guys I've asked it were slightly under the minimum weight.

So.... isn't Manti approved and being for the childish and eye candy guys?

What you think about this disk brake? It's made by an Italian manufacturer for MRX3... Very cheap when compared with the Optional Mugen (Only 25 Euros vs. 62).