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how about this then at the winternats Andy Wallis in third place (UK) was driving a..............................Schumacher
http://www.racing-cars.com/newsdetails.asp?itemId=RR82 |
Re: 1st Problem
Originally posted by click, dublin Hi Guys, I had the 3 out today for a good spin. It was the first time I had opened her up on my local track. The 2 speed clutch bell (TO236) bearing started to work loose causing the 43T & 47T gears to touch. There's normally a gap between them. Has anybody else experienced this? I'm going to try thread lock or a small tap with a center punch on the outer clutch bearing housing to try & stop it from moving. Overall the car handles extremly well. I was trying different combos of rubber tyres which worked quite well on a COLD Irish morning. All the best I've had a closer look. There's a gap between the gears which is caused by the one-way bearing in TO235. When I run the 3 hard this one-way bearing seems to push the bearing in TO236 back which causes the gap to close to nothing. The bearing in TO236 seems very tight but it still moves. Just check & see do you still have this gap? All the best |
I found thet it will bind if your side pully is tight against the lh bulk head...
I have a little bit of lateral movement in my 2speed shaft, and its nolonger a problem |
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i took some pictures and finally learned how to post them
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wish i could post more than one picture per post
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and why do you have to say something
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Originally posted by jason102276 and why do you have to say something |
luckily for me i have a friend who can paint
i havent yet run the pipe or engine part efra 2691 box says 2690 pipeset inline m15 got nearly 2ft of snow here over the weekend could be a while before i get to test it out i have been running a slightly modded mr-12 with a rdlogics outlaw pipe and it was very fast |
Well, you're lucky... Anyway, the 2690 pipe is suppose to be awesome. I thought Smeltz is no more modding engines for the moment?
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Originally posted by jason102276 i took some pictures and finally learned how to post them Very nice car BTW! |
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Originally posted by jason102276 wish i could post more than one picture per post - The pressure line is way too long. You cannot get reliable carb adjustments with this long line. You need to cut it quite. - Throttle/Brake linkage. You've substituted the springs and are needed (well, maybe you can burn the servo). Need two springs. One that comes from the servo on the throttle link and other (optional) that goes on the brake linkage to promote separation of the brake pads. If you find that the brakes aren't working good, you can put a piece of tube on the part that pulls the brake lever, sometimes can be quite tough, soften it making some cuts to the tube and remove little parts - you can have a spring made of fuel tubing (see pic). BTW: Don't be fooled by the stock appearing of the engine... It started as a stock RB, but this weekend should haul some asses :sneaky: :sneaky: |
freakah i never thought about the possiblity of bending chassis before
i may have to switch that i am using hitec servos and shouldnt stress them any extra i put the tube on the neg side of brake right before i took the pictures because sometimes the brakes were not disengaging it has a stop the other way so they dont drag anymore |
jason - aren't those the old Mugen Fast tires? I thought you couldn't run anything but offset tires on this car?! Nice car BTW. I'm thinking about picking one up (MTX-3 that is). How would you compare it to the GT-4. I have one of those too.
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Originally posted by Corse-R Uhm.... some issues: - The pressure line is way too long. You cannot get reliable carb adjustments with this long line. You need to cut it quite... |
to fit the wheels i use the spacers made by mugen for mtx-2 they are about 1mm thick and go behind the pin for the hex
the universals i got from justrc seem to be the perfect length for the lock nut the pressure hose is 8 inches long ive heard this is a good amount i think mtx-3 is the best touring car out there i would recommend it over gt-4 |
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