Mugen MTX-4
06-03-2007, 06:18 AM
#8568
Tech Regular
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: West Ozzie living in Merrigum...Shepparton...Victoria
Posts: 426
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Whats a good starting point for droop for front and rear on the MTX4.
Cheers
Cheers
06-03-2007, 06:40 AM
#8569
need formula!
need formula that could give me the predicted result on wear of tires but given some inputs and i have no idea of how to find it using excel.
for instance If know that if I start with 63mm tires, on my track in ten minutes racing i have a wear of 1mm, what would be the wear if i'd like to race with the same tires for 25minutes, and please I know that it is not going to be 2.5mm. I know that somewhere in this formula the 3.1416 has to appear due to the smaller diameter and higher rotation due to wear, just wanted something exactly and not like now that i've been using a factor of 1 .25 1.6 2 2.5 for example.
any help appreciated, I'm just too lazy to use some tires for this purpose.
by the way! switched to the steering ball links on the rear camber links outer when using the R upper arm mount, works fine and will stand harder in case of hit since the rod will be more secured
happy racing!
for instance If know that if I start with 63mm tires, on my track in ten minutes racing i have a wear of 1mm, what would be the wear if i'd like to race with the same tires for 25minutes, and please I know that it is not going to be 2.5mm. I know that somewhere in this formula the 3.1416 has to appear due to the smaller diameter and higher rotation due to wear, just wanted something exactly and not like now that i've been using a factor of 1 .25 1.6 2 2.5 for example.
any help appreciated, I'm just too lazy to use some tires for this purpose.
by the way! switched to the steering ball links on the rear camber links outer when using the R upper arm mount, works fine and will stand harder in case of hit since the rod will be more secured
happy racing!
06-03-2007, 06:50 AM
#8570
i found wiht a oneway you have to run less rear droop, as compared to with a solid.
with the solid, i run as much droop as i like, and i find it doesn't unsettle the car as much as with a oneway. the benefit to more overall droop is;
-if you run more rear droop (ie i mean more lift) you will get more turn it, hence allowing the solid to steer in like a oneway)
-if you run more front droop (ie lift) the car will have more mid to exitsteering. the reason for more exit steering if you run more front droop (ie lift) is becuase the weight, when you apply the throttle shifts to the rear more, hence the rear tyres get more power, hence the rear end is driven more by the diff, so you get a feeling of the car driving with the rear more (but a nice feeling not a taily feeling) and therefore it steers better.
the other benefit to more front lift is that the rear end is less taily, as the weight is placed more ont he rear tyres so you can floor it out of a corner harder.
i used to run no lift at the front thinking (yeah this will keep more weight ont he front hence more steering) NOT TRUE! all you do with this, is create a car that feels skatey,a nd the rear end will feel too lght and slidey, due to no weight being transfered tot he rear tyres
ie, think of a drag car when they floor it of the line. does the front stay flat with the nose not lifting, or does the nose of a drag car lift up?
ANYWAY LONG STORY SHORT
-run 1/2 the amount of droop on the rear with a oneway, and you can double it ont he rear for a spool.
-on the front, run as much as you can get away with. without it being excessive. ie a lift of about 2mm or 3mm is ok i recon at the front.
06-03-2007, 10:06 AM
#8571
Ball cups : H0860 ( Black )
Plastic Connectors : C0111C ---> shorten or cut by 2mm.
Screws : SIG3x20 or SIG3x24 ( button head hex )
The original MTX4 3mm ball cup hex ( H0867) is fine to use, but Logik said they come off ?
Mine is fixed, screw from top to bottom. The chamber angle remain the same since 2003
7576 is part of pin numbers ..... i can't tell you which one obviously
go to screws section in www.rc-mushroom.com for longer screws.
06-03-2007, 10:14 AM
#8572
Noticed the same thing with a Ninja the belt rubs on the header. I filed mine a litte so there are no sharp but but it will still rub. To be quite honest the rubbing is not a problem and it's not on the power side (unless you have a spool).
One question I have about belt tension though is about adjusting the belt to run very close to each side will they touch what happens if they do?
One question I have about belt tension though is about adjusting the belt to run very close to each side will they touch what happens if they do?
Something to think about if you decide to do this mod.
06-03-2007, 02:50 PM
#8574
need formula that could give me the predicted result on wear of tires but given some inputs and i have no idea of how to find it using excel.
for instance If know that if I start with 63mm tires, on my track in ten minutes racing i have a wear of 1mm, what would be the wear if i'd like to race with the same tires for 25minutes, and please I know that it is not going to be 2.5mm.
for instance If know that if I start with 63mm tires, on my track in ten minutes racing i have a wear of 1mm, what would be the wear if i'd like to race with the same tires for 25minutes, and please I know that it is not going to be 2.5mm.
Only I can say is to continue making tests (and wearing tyre sets), but take into account that as smaller the tyre is, the more wear is subjected and quicker is the diameter decrease.
Nobody can give you a formula for this, is a trial and error method and is only valid for you and a given track.
06-03-2007, 04:13 PM
#8575
hey guys
im getting back to run my mugen again and i was just wondering what setups to play with
are more ppl now running a front diff now than before
im getting back to run my mugen again and i was just wondering what setups to play with
are more ppl now running a front diff now than before
06-03-2007, 05:36 PM
#8576
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: West Ozzie living in Merrigum...Shepparton...Victoria
Posts: 426
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
depends if you run a oneway or a solid.
i found wiht a oneway you have to run less rear droop, as compared to with a solid.
with the solid, i run as much droop as i like, and i find it doesn't unsettle the car as much as with a oneway. the benefit to more overall droop is;
-if you run more rear droop (ie i mean more lift) you will get more turn it, hence allowing the solid to steer in like a oneway)
-if you run more front droop (ie lift) the car will have more mid to exitsteering. the reason for more exit steering if you run more front droop (ie lift) is becuase the weight, when you apply the throttle shifts to the rear more, hence the rear tyres get more power, hence the rear end is driven more by the diff, so you get a feeling of the car driving with the rear more (but a nice feeling not a taily feeling) and therefore it steers better.
the other benefit to more front lift is that the rear end is less taily, as the weight is placed more ont he rear tyres so you can floor it out of a corner harder.
i used to run no lift at the front thinking (yeah this will keep more weight ont he front hence more steering) NOT TRUE! all you do with this, is create a car that feels skatey,a nd the rear end will feel too lght and slidey, due to no weight being transfered tot he rear tyres
ie, think of a drag car when they floor it of the line. does the front stay flat with the nose not lifting, or does the nose of a drag car lift up?
ANYWAY LONG STORY SHORT
-run 1/2 the amount of droop on the rear with a oneway, and you can double it ont he rear for a spool.
-on the front, run as much as you can get away with. without it being excessive. ie a lift of about 2mm or 3mm is ok i recon at the front.
i found wiht a oneway you have to run less rear droop, as compared to with a solid.
with the solid, i run as much droop as i like, and i find it doesn't unsettle the car as much as with a oneway. the benefit to more overall droop is;
-if you run more rear droop (ie i mean more lift) you will get more turn it, hence allowing the solid to steer in like a oneway)
-if you run more front droop (ie lift) the car will have more mid to exitsteering. the reason for more exit steering if you run more front droop (ie lift) is becuase the weight, when you apply the throttle shifts to the rear more, hence the rear tyres get more power, hence the rear end is driven more by the diff, so you get a feeling of the car driving with the rear more (but a nice feeling not a taily feeling) and therefore it steers better.
the other benefit to more front lift is that the rear end is less taily, as the weight is placed more ont he rear tyres so you can floor it out of a corner harder.
i used to run no lift at the front thinking (yeah this will keep more weight ont he front hence more steering) NOT TRUE! all you do with this, is create a car that feels skatey,a nd the rear end will feel too lght and slidey, due to no weight being transfered tot he rear tyres
ie, think of a drag car when they floor it of the line. does the front stay flat with the nose not lifting, or does the nose of a drag car lift up?
ANYWAY LONG STORY SHORT
-run 1/2 the amount of droop on the rear with a oneway, and you can double it ont he rear for a spool.
-on the front, run as much as you can get away with. without it being excessive. ie a lift of about 2mm or 3mm is ok i recon at the front.
Finished 4th in the W.A. states yesterday. Very happy with 4th place, specialy where I was running at the end of last season. Down around 10th and being 1.5 sec per lap off leaders time. Now I am only .3 off and now winning races. Well at least the semi's and doing PB's all weekend.
Hence the question about the droop. I have played with everything apart from droop. I am losing time just after entry with the rear of the car steping out. This is where I am losing time with the top 3.
If all is going well and the funds permiting I might make my way across to Melbourne for the Nats in October.
Thanks again TomB, I'm off to play with droop
06-03-2007, 05:46 PM
#8577
TomB- Great info!
Well, I tried out the 25T side pulley and I think I'll be sticking with this more than the 24T pulley. The tires seem to wear more evenly when comparing fronts to rears. After I move I'll try a new piston/conrod in the spare OS parts I have as I can't tell if its a zeppin mod or 5port block. I may be interested in trying the RB Matrix or Sirio STI though as this OS IMO seems to be not anything more than the EB mods TZ. What amazes me most is how fast learning to drive nitro sedan was with the Mugen compared to the R40 and getting use to the motors as well. Again its probably just use to driving 8th with more snap and acceleration.
Well, I tried out the 25T side pulley and I think I'll be sticking with this more than the 24T pulley. The tires seem to wear more evenly when comparing fronts to rears. After I move I'll try a new piston/conrod in the spare OS parts I have as I can't tell if its a zeppin mod or 5port block. I may be interested in trying the RB Matrix or Sirio STI though as this OS IMO seems to be not anything more than the EB mods TZ. What amazes me most is how fast learning to drive nitro sedan was with the Mugen compared to the R40 and getting use to the motors as well. Again its probably just use to driving 8th with more snap and acceleration.
06-03-2007, 08:00 PM
#8579
pulley count
hi good people....
can anyone give me the comlete pulley teeth count including rear diff and front one way????
Thanx guys.....
can anyone give me the comlete pulley teeth count including rear diff and front one way????
Thanx guys.....
06-03-2007, 08:39 PM
#8580
