Mugen MTX-4
#8551
Originally Posted by LogiK
dont have one
#8552
hey guys, just got a q about the mtx4r.
the description of the kit at mugen says it comes with a one-way... its not a multi one-way/locker(solid) by putting a pin into it is it? it just looks similar to my xray multi in my T2 with the o-ring cover in the middle thats all...
the description of the kit at mugen says it comes with a one-way... its not a multi one-way/locker(solid) by putting a pin into it is it? it just looks similar to my xray multi in my T2 with the o-ring cover in the middle thats all...
#8553
Tech Adept
It is a multi. you just put the pins in to lock it
#8554
Originally Posted by Delta9
It is a multi. you just put the pins in to lock it
just to add, the only thing i dont like about the mtx4 is the room in the engine area.... but everything else seems like ticks... like screw on ball cups etc
#8555
Originally Posted by Dynamite
cool, sounds like i might have to add one of these kits to my collection soon
just to add, the only thing i dont like about the mtx4 is the room in the engine area.... but everything else seems like ticks... like screw on ball cups etc
just to add, the only thing i dont like about the mtx4 is the room in the engine area.... but everything else seems like ticks... like screw on ball cups etc
1. Flip the belt tensioner, so it doesn't block the engine anymore.
2. Increase the height of engine bay's stiffener ( the bar or stiffener that connects upper deck to rear bulkhead ). Increase the height by using thick plastic shim, so you can slide out the flywheel later on.
Now, the removal process :
Unscrews 2 parts : the engine block ( 4 screws on the bottom of chassis ) and rear side belt pulley ( pulley behind manifold ). Slide the engine out. Flywheel will hit the brake disc, but it willl slide out...... just wiggle it.
#8556
you can use a sanding drum to remove some material from the bottom of the brace above the flywheel and also to make it easier to remvoe the clutch bell, use a sanding drum to remove some aluminum right in front of the clutch bell area so that you can slide the bell off to make adjustments to the clutch spring without having to remove the engine.
#8558
I hope you are using the rubber belt ( the longer one ), so you can push the belt tensioner to the lowest position.
#8559
Noticed the same thing with a Ninja the belt rubs on the header. I filed mine a litte so there are no sharp but but it will still rub. To be quite honest the rubbing is not a problem and it's not on the power side (unless you have a spool).
One question I have about belt tension though is about adjusting the belt to run very close to each side will they touch what happens if they do?
One question I have about belt tension though is about adjusting the belt to run very close to each side will they touch what happens if they do?
#8560
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
how about mugen just fix it? theres a thought. i have to say, the fit of certain steering servos along with this tensionor issue gve me a bad tast about the car being rushed. that and how do u set the rear belt tension and be 100% sure that they wont shift when assembling the bulkhead ????
#8561
how about mugen just fix it? theres a thought. i have to say, the fit of certain steering servos along with this tensionor issue gve me a bad tast about the car being rushed. that and how do u set the rear belt tension and be 100% sure that they wont shift when assembling the bulkhead ????
#8563
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
Hi,
First race today, was good fun..
Question, o-ring is shot in the tank, will the MRX-4 kit have one in it?
also, the ball cups on the turnbuckles at the rear?
Also im told I should stock;
All belts
Rear arms (both)
Front (uppers I think)
Both uprights
Bearings
and spurs and pinions/clutchbells.
Any help is appreciated .
First race today, was good fun..
Question, o-ring is shot in the tank, will the MRX-4 kit have one in it?
also, the ball cups on the turnbuckles at the rear?
Also im told I should stock;
All belts
Rear arms (both)
Front (uppers I think)
Both uprights
Bearings
and spurs and pinions/clutchbells.
Any help is appreciated .
#8564
If MTX4's eccentric tensioner sucks, MAYBE you can replace it with 12x18 bearings. ( This is what I do in my MRX4-R ....... soon in my MTX4 too ). Bigger bearing is better, especially for1/8 cars.
#8565
Hi,
First race today, was good fun..
Question, o-ring is shot in the tank, will the MRX-4 kit have one in it?
also, the ball cups on the turnbuckles at the rear?
Also im told I should stock;
All belts
Rear arms (both)
Front (uppers I think)
Both uprights
Bearings
and spurs and pinions/clutchbells.
Any help is appreciated .
First race today, was good fun..
Question, o-ring is shot in the tank, will the MRX-4 kit have one in it?
also, the ball cups on the turnbuckles at the rear?
Also im told I should stock;
All belts
Rear arms (both)
Front (uppers I think)
Both uprights
Bearings
and spurs and pinions/clutchbells.
Any help is appreciated .
Materials: longer screws ( 24 mm ), black ball cups from MTX3