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Old 05-30-2007, 04:25 AM   #8551
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Originally Posted by LogiK
dont have one
Check the "For Sale" thread here at RCTech. Also, you don't have to buy the most expensive one, just one that gets the job done. If you're serious about your racing, it's a good investment.
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Old 05-30-2007, 04:50 AM   #8552
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hey guys, just got a q about the mtx4r.

the description of the kit at mugen says it comes with a one-way... its not a multi one-way/locker(solid) by putting a pin into it is it? it just looks similar to my xray multi in my T2 with the o-ring cover in the middle thats all...
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Old 05-30-2007, 04:56 AM   #8553
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It is a multi. you just put the pins in to lock it
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Old 05-30-2007, 05:11 AM   #8554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta9
It is a multi. you just put the pins in to lock it
cool, sounds like i might have to add one of these kits to my collection soon

just to add, the only thing i dont like about the mtx4 is the room in the engine area.... but everything else seems like ticks... like screw on ball cups etc
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Old 06-02-2007, 12:44 AM   #8555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynamite
cool, sounds like i might have to add one of these kits to my collection soon

just to add, the only thing i dont like about the mtx4 is the room in the engine area.... but everything else seems like ticks... like screw on ball cups etc
How to remove engine in MTX4 easily :

1. Flip the belt tensioner, so it doesn't block the engine anymore.

2. Increase the height of engine bay's stiffener ( the bar or stiffener that connects upper deck to rear bulkhead ). Increase the height by using thick plastic shim, so you can slide out the flywheel later on.

Now, the removal process :

Unscrews 2 parts : the engine block ( 4 screws on the bottom of chassis ) and rear side belt pulley ( pulley behind manifold ). Slide the engine out. Flywheel will hit the brake disc, but it willl slide out...... just wiggle it.
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Old 06-02-2007, 09:14 AM   #8556
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you can use a sanding drum to remove some material from the bottom of the brace above the flywheel and also to make it easier to remvoe the clutch bell, use a sanding drum to remove some aluminum right in front of the clutch bell area so that you can slide the bell off to make adjustments to the clutch spring without having to remove the engine.
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Old 06-02-2007, 03:05 PM   #8557
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I flipped the tensioner over and have noticed that no matter how you position the exhaust manifold, the outside of the side belt rubs on it a little. I think that was why they had the tensioner where it was originally. Anyone have any ideas on how to remedy this?
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Old 06-02-2007, 04:09 PM   #8558
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I flipped the tensioner over and have noticed that no matter how you position the exhaust manifold, the outside of the side belt rubs on it a little. I think that was why they had the tensioner where it was originally. Anyone have any ideas on how to remedy this?
I hope you are using the rubber belt ( the longer one ), so you can push the belt tensioner to the lowest position.
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Old 06-02-2007, 05:54 PM   #8559
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Noticed the same thing with a Ninja the belt rubs on the header. I filed mine a litte so there are no sharp but but it will still rub. To be quite honest the rubbing is not a problem and it's not on the power side (unless you have a spool).
One question I have about belt tension though is about adjusting the belt to run very close to each side will they touch what happens if they do?
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Old 06-02-2007, 06:37 PM   #8560
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how about mugen just fix it? theres a thought. i have to say, the fit of certain steering servos along with this tensionor issue gve me a bad tast about the car being rushed. that and how do u set the rear belt tension and be 100% sure that they wont shift when assembling the bulkhead ????
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Old 06-02-2007, 08:38 PM   #8561
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how about mugen just fix it? theres a thought. i have to say, the fit of certain steering servos along with this tensionor issue gve me a bad tast about the car being rushed. that and how do u set the rear belt tension and be 100% sure that they wont shift when assembling the bulkhead ????
Front and rear belt tensioners IMHO are great you want to try some of the electric ones where it's pure luck you get it right, it is much harder when the slot is in the bottom part of the bulkhead.
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Old 06-02-2007, 08:51 PM   #8562
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i wasnt asking how hard or easy it was, how do u get it right??? not being a twurp, just an honest question
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Old 06-03-2007, 02:47 AM   #8563
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Hi,

First race today, was good fun..

Question, o-ring is shot in the tank, will the MRX-4 kit have one in it?

also, the ball cups on the turnbuckles at the rear?

Also im told I should stock;

All belts
Rear arms (both)
Front (uppers I think)
Both uprights
Bearings
and spurs and pinions/clutchbells.

Any help is appreciated .
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Old 06-03-2007, 02:52 AM   #8564
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Originally Posted by gentleman81 View Post
i wasnt asking how hard or easy it was, how do u get it right??? not being a twurp, just an honest question
Front & Rear eccentric belt tensioner : need extra patience to compare the notch ( on the eccentric ) to upper part ( shock tower unit ). It requires few test fit, a gap means not perfectly aligned, and need another comparison again....... No gap means perfect fit and you can screw the top.

If MTX4's eccentric tensioner sucks, MAYBE you can replace it with 12x18 bearings. ( This is what I do in my MRX4-R ....... soon in my MTX4 too ). Bigger bearing is better, especially for1/8 cars.
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Old 06-03-2007, 03:04 AM   #8565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LogiK View Post
Hi,

First race today, was good fun..

Question, o-ring is shot in the tank, will the MRX-4 kit have one in it?

also, the ball cups on the turnbuckles at the rear?

Also im told I should stock;

All belts
Rear arms (both)
Front (uppers I think)
Both uprights
Bearings
and spurs and pinions/clutchbells.

Any help is appreciated .
For rear uprights ball cups : see my pics... do you get the idea ?

Materials: longer screws ( 24 mm ), black ball cups from MTX3
Attached Thumbnails
Mugen MTX-4-rear-uprights.jpg  
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