R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-03-2007, 03:20 AM   #8566
Tech Elite
 
itchy b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: In My Man Cave
Posts: 4,144
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
For rear uprights ball cups : see my pics... do you get the idea ?

Materials: longer screws ( 24 mm ), black ball cups from MTX3
What's with those ball cups in your pic asw?
Where did you get them from?
Dont you like the mugen 3mm hex drive originals?
& what does 7576 stand for in your sig?
P.S. I might have more questions for you at a later time!
itchy b is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 03:28 AM   #8567
Tech Fanatic
 
LogiK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Central Coast, NSW, Australia
Posts: 757
Trader Rating: 11 (92%+)
Default

What are some part numbers I can use?
LogiK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 07:18 AM   #8568
Tech Regular
 
arr see car's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: West Ozzie living in Merrigum...Shepparton...Victoria
Posts: 426
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Whats a good starting point for droop for front and rear on the MTX4.

Cheers
__________________
...Current Toys...
.....(: WIFE :)......
.MST MS-01D Pro.
....Axial Wraith....
.......... 😃 ..........
arr see car is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 07:40 AM   #8569
Tech Fanatic
 
Seisick's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 845
Default need formula!

need formula that could give me the predicted result on wear of tires but given some inputs and i have no idea of how to find it using excel.
for instance If know that if I start with 63mm tires, on my track in ten minutes racing i have a wear of 1mm, what would be the wear if i'd like to race with the same tires for 25minutes, and please I know that it is not going to be 2.5mm. I know that somewhere in this formula the 3.1416 has to appear due to the smaller diameter and higher rotation due to wear, just wanted something exactly and not like now that i've been using a factor of 1 .25 1.6 2 2.5 for example.
any help appreciated, I'm just too lazy to use some tires for this purpose.

by the way! switched to the steering ball links on the rear camber links outer when using the R upper arm mount, works fine and will stand harder in case of hit since the rod will be more secured

happy racing!
Seisick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 07:50 AM   #8570
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: www.moorebankraceway.com
Posts: 5,119
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by arr see car View Post
Whats a good starting point for droop for front and rear on the MTX4.

Cheers
depends if you run a oneway or a solid.

i found wiht a oneway you have to run less rear droop, as compared to with a solid.

with the solid, i run as much droop as i like, and i find it doesn't unsettle the car as much as with a oneway. the benefit to more overall droop is;

-if you run more rear droop (ie i mean more lift) you will get more turn it, hence allowing the solid to steer in like a oneway)

-if you run more front droop (ie lift) the car will have more mid to exitsteering. the reason for more exit steering if you run more front droop (ie lift) is becuase the weight, when you apply the throttle shifts to the rear more, hence the rear tyres get more power, hence the rear end is driven more by the diff, so you get a feeling of the car driving with the rear more (but a nice feeling not a taily feeling) and therefore it steers better.

the other benefit to more front lift is that the rear end is less taily, as the weight is placed more ont he rear tyres so you can floor it out of a corner harder.

i used to run no lift at the front thinking (yeah this will keep more weight ont he front hence more steering) NOT TRUE! all you do with this, is create a car that feels skatey,a nd the rear end will feel too lght and slidey, due to no weight being transfered tot he rear tyres

ie, think of a drag car when they floor it of the line. does the front stay flat with the nose not lifting, or does the nose of a drag car lift up?


ANYWAY LONG STORY SHORT

-run 1/2 the amount of droop on the rear with a oneway, and you can double it ont he rear for a spool.
-on the front, run as much as you can get away with. without it being excessive. ie a lift of about 2mm or 3mm is ok i recon at the front.
TomB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 11:06 AM   #8571
Tech Champion
 
asw7576's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,792
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by itchy b View Post
What's with those ball cups in your pic asw?
Where did you get them from?
Dont you like the mugen 3mm hex drive originals?
& what does 7576 stand for in your sig?
P.S. I might have more questions for you at a later time!
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogiK View Post
What are some part numbers I can use?
Looks beefy right ?

Ball cups : H0860 ( Black )
Plastic Connectors : C0111C ---> shorten or cut by 2mm.
Screws : SIG3x20 or SIG3x24 ( button head hex )

The original MTX4 3mm ball cup hex ( H0867) is fine to use, but Logik said they come off ?

Mine is fixed, screw from top to bottom. The chamber angle remain the same since 2003

7576 is part of pin numbers ..... i can't tell you which one obviously

go to screws section in www.rc-mushroom.com for longer screws.
asw7576 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 11:14 AM   #8572
Tech Master
 
JetMD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Richmond VA
Posts: 1,172
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShrekNZ View Post
Noticed the same thing with a Ninja the belt rubs on the header. I filed mine a litte so there are no sharp but but it will still rub. To be quite honest the rubbing is not a problem and it's not on the power side (unless you have a spool).
One question I have about belt tension though is about adjusting the belt to run very close to each side will they touch what happens if they do?
I am using the rubber belts. I'm not concerned about the power loss because it is minimal. What concerns me is the life of the belt. I know it's not designed to withstand 250+ temps. Especially when mine has random teeth falling off. Maybe i'll just suffer the consequences of having to take an extra 30 sec. to get my motor out so that my belt will last longer.

Something to think about if you decide to do this mod.
JetMD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 03:01 PM   #8573
Tech Fanatic
 
LogiK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Central Coast, NSW, Australia
Posts: 757
Trader Rating: 11 (92%+)
Default

Nah the cups on mine are just worn, not coming off, doesn't give a solid setup has a bit of slop.
LogiK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 03:50 PM   #8574
Tech Elite
 
Corse-R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Madrid (Spain)
Posts: 2,121
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seisick View Post
need formula that could give me the predicted result on wear of tires but given some inputs and i have no idea of how to find it using excel.
for instance If know that if I start with 63mm tires, on my track in ten minutes racing i have a wear of 1mm, what would be the wear if i'd like to race with the same tires for 25minutes, and please I know that it is not going to be 2.5mm.
The wear rate for a given track isn't a linear formula, depens on many variables, how much abrassive is your track, how much you abuse the tyres 'throwing' the car into the turn, how much do you make it slide, how early you mash the throttle, how quick you go on the turns, surface temp, and many other variables, but you get some measure: 1mm each 10 mins at 63mm.

Only I can say is to continue making tests (and wearing tyre sets), but take into account that as smaller the tyre is, the more wear is subjected and quicker is the diameter decrease.

Nobody can give you a formula for this, is a trial and error method and is only valid for you and a given track.
__________________
Cheers,
Corse-R
---
[quote=MugenDrew;2684554]BATTERIES are for FLASH LIGHTS, gasoline is for cleanin parts, alcohol is for me to drink and well NITRO...everybody know thats for racing.[/quote] :D:D:D
Corse-R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 05:13 PM   #8575
Tech Elite
 
wallyedmonds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Brampton ont canada
Posts: 3,662
Default

hey guys
im getting back to run my mugen again and i was just wondering what setups to play with
are more ppl now running a front diff now than before
wallyedmonds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 06:36 PM   #8576
Tech Regular
 
arr see car's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: West Ozzie living in Merrigum...Shepparton...Victoria
Posts: 426
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB View Post
depends if you run a oneway or a solid.

i found wiht a oneway you have to run less rear droop, as compared to with a solid.

with the solid, i run as much droop as i like, and i find it doesn't unsettle the car as much as with a oneway. the benefit to more overall droop is;

-if you run more rear droop (ie i mean more lift) you will get more turn it, hence allowing the solid to steer in like a oneway)

-if you run more front droop (ie lift) the car will have more mid to exitsteering. the reason for more exit steering if you run more front droop (ie lift) is becuase the weight, when you apply the throttle shifts to the rear more, hence the rear tyres get more power, hence the rear end is driven more by the diff, so you get a feeling of the car driving with the rear more (but a nice feeling not a taily feeling) and therefore it steers better.

the other benefit to more front lift is that the rear end is less taily, as the weight is placed more ont he rear tyres so you can floor it out of a corner harder.

i used to run no lift at the front thinking (yeah this will keep more weight ont he front hence more steering) NOT TRUE! all you do with this, is create a car that feels skatey,a nd the rear end will feel too lght and slidey, due to no weight being transfered tot he rear tyres

ie, think of a drag car when they floor it of the line. does the front stay flat with the nose not lifting, or does the nose of a drag car lift up?


ANYWAY LONG STORY SHORT

-run 1/2 the amount of droop on the rear with a oneway, and you can double it ont he rear for a spool.
-on the front, run as much as you can get away with. without it being excessive. ie a lift of about 2mm or 3mm is ok i recon at the front.
Thanks TomB.

Finished 4th in the W.A. states yesterday. Very happy with 4th place, specialy where I was running at the end of last season. Down around 10th and being 1.5 sec per lap off leaders time. Now I am only .3 off and now winning races. Well at least the semi's and doing PB's all weekend.

Hence the question about the droop. I have played with everything apart from droop. I am losing time just after entry with the rear of the car steping out. This is where I am losing time with the top 3.

If all is going well and the funds permiting I might make my way across to Melbourne for the Nats in October.

Thanks again TomB, I'm off to play with droop
__________________
...Current Toys...
.....(: WIFE :)......
.MST MS-01D Pro.
....Axial Wraith....
.......... 😃 ..........
arr see car is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 06:46 PM   #8577
Tech Elite
 
HarKonnenD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 3,024
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to HarKonnenD
Default

TomB- Great info!

Well, I tried out the 25T side pulley and I think I'll be sticking with this more than the 24T pulley. The tires seem to wear more evenly when comparing fronts to rears. After I move I'll try a new piston/conrod in the spare OS parts I have as I can't tell if its a zeppin mod or 5port block. I may be interested in trying the RB Matrix or Sirio STI though as this OS IMO seems to be not anything more than the EB mods TZ. What amazes me most is how fast learning to drive nitro sedan was with the Mugen compared to the R40 and getting use to the motors as well. Again its probably just use to driving 8th with more snap and acceleration.
HarKonnenD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 07:35 PM   #8578
Tech Master
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,188
Trader Rating: 70 (100%+)
Default What Radio

What radio are you folks running on your mtx4r's.
Krafcik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 09:00 PM   #8579
Tech Elite
 
rizal_eg9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,465
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default pulley count

hi good people....

can anyone give me the comlete pulley teeth count including rear diff and front one way????

Thanx guys.....
rizal_eg9 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2007, 09:39 PM   #8580
Tech Elite
 
rmdhawaii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,804
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rizal_eg9 View Post
hi good people....

can anyone give me the comlete pulley teeth count including rear diff and front one way????

Thanx guys.....
one-way 28, mid 18, side front 24, side rear 18, brake 19, rear diff 41

...from the MTX-4 KB. thanks afm
__________________
Nitro Knowledge Base: http://nitrokb.netne.net
My YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/nitrokb -> Lots of on-road nitro & eletric action + some off-road as well
My Flickr Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/nitrokb/
Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
rmdhawaii is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
MUGEN MBX5R/MUGEN MBX5T PROSPEC/TRAXXAS RACE REVO Jason Halvorson R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 14 01-12-2008 10:32 AM
Mugen 5T Chassis, Mugen 46 Tooth Pinion, Associated Ride Height Gauge bretzkej R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 08-19-2007 06:31 PM
USA's Most Wanted FOR SALE Mugen MBX5R,Losi 8 comp, and Mugen MBX5T Prospec Truggy nobike R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 69 04-28-2007 07:45 PM
Another MTX3 prospec w lots of parts and an optional Mugen X12 w Mugen pipe Scott Fisher R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 11 11-21-2005 05:45 PM
drake xxx nt and mugen mst-1+extras......Looking for a kanai 2 or maybe mugen buggy [email protected] R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 06-30-2003 09:31 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:19 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net