Kyosho v-one rrr
06-10-2006, 12:41 PM
#7246
[QUOTE=rmdhawaii]Hi Guys,
How often are you replacing your 2nd shoe set?
[/QUOTE
they normally last pretty long time...I maintain them by cleaning them...once the car starts shifting later than normal...they must be adjusted......best thing to do is when you have one that is set perfect for you, measure it with a caliper then when you need to replace it youll have a direct fit with the next.
How often are you replacing your 2nd shoe set?
[/QUOTEthey normally last pretty long time...I maintain them by cleaning them...once the car starts shifting later than normal...they must be adjusted......best thing to do is when you have one that is set perfect for you, measure it with a caliper then when you need to replace it youll have a direct fit with the next.
06-10-2006, 08:25 PM
#7247
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Hi Guys,
How often are you replacing your 2nd shoe set?
How often are you replacing your 2nd shoe set?
the 2nd speed shoe indeed last quite a while like about 7 to 8 races...
i will look into it ,example , if the shoes are almost silver in colour and cause there will be no fiction between the 2nd spur.... And of course, when changing it...use a fine sandpaper to sand it all the eage of the shoe for smooth rolling and dun tighten it like the manaul shown... if not, quite difficult to gauge between the spur. I will tighten till the level which the screw hole is and later then tighten according to the track.... the rest of the FAQ, refer to Hawaii web.....
06-11-2006, 04:58 AM
#7248
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Hi Guys,
How often are you replacing your 2nd shoe set?
How often are you replacing your 2nd shoe set?
Taking extreme care to make sure that both hex adjusting screws are tightened equally. I find that getting it to the point just before the shoes start to expand is perfect for use with the OS 5P motor and gearing I run.
Basically, no tortional play between the shoes and the shaft. As already mentioned, I then check this over if my shift points are not smack on.
Measuring the outer dia. and keeping record of it, is a great idea.
Last edited by V1-RRR-WC; 06-11-2006 at 05:09 AM.
06-11-2006, 12:19 PM
#7249
question on RRR setting up manual
hello all,
i have a question on RRR the setting data manual. in camber adjustment session in the manual they mention something about 0G and 1G with 2 different ranges of values for 0G the range is 0~1 and for 1G is 1~2 for the front and something else for the rear. What are these 0G and 1G? also the same thing is mentioned for the caster settings.
antony
i have a question on RRR the setting data manual. in camber adjustment session in the manual they mention something about 0G and 1G with 2 different ranges of values for 0G the range is 0~1 and for 1G is 1~2 for the front and something else for the rear. What are these 0G and 1G? also the same thing is mentioned for the caster settings.
antony
06-11-2006, 12:45 PM
#7250
Originally Posted by antoine80
hello all,
i have a question on RRR the setting data manual. in camber adjustment session in the manual they mention something about 0G and 1G with 2 different ranges of values for 0G the range is 0~1 and for 1G is 1~2 for the front and something else for the rear. What are these 0G and 1G? also the same thing is mentioned for the caster settings.
antony
i have a question on RRR the setting data manual. in camber adjustment session in the manual they mention something about 0G and 1G with 2 different ranges of values for 0G the range is 0~1 and for 1G is 1~2 for the front and something else for the rear. What are these 0G and 1G? also the same thing is mentioned for the caster settings.
antony
1G is with the chassis resting on the suspension.
06-11-2006, 12:58 PM
#7251
Originally Posted by dougday
I think 0G is with the chassis elevated and the wheels suspended.
1G is with the chassis resting on the suspension.
1G is with the chassis resting on the suspension.
what do you mean "suspended" & "resting"?also if these are two different states of the chassis why is there a range of camber values? also i suppose the camber values are in degrees, so it is 0~1 degrees and 1~2 degrees
06-11-2006, 01:11 PM
#7252
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by antoine80
i am sorry but my english doesn't help me too much what do you mean "suspended" & "resting"?
also if these are two different states of the chassis why is there a range of camber values? also i suppose the camber values are in degrees, so it is 0~1 degrees and 1~2 degrees
what do you mean "suspended" & "resting"?also if these are two different states of the chassis why is there a range of camber values? also i suppose the camber values are in degrees, so it is 0~1 degrees and 1~2 degrees
1g = the car is on the ground, the weight is (resting) on the suspention
06-11-2006, 01:18 PM
#7253
Originally Posted by oderem
suspended means that the car is on a car stand or something where the wheels are off the ground
thnx
06-13-2006, 07:54 AM
#7256
Originally Posted by maskedrider
wheres everybody goes ??? 
Hmm.....All down with Germany World Cup Fever !!!!!!
Hmm.....All down with Germany World Cup Fever !!!!!!
My car is in pieces, it's not nitro season here now. We only club race during the summer. It's too hot.
06-13-2006, 08:28 AM
#7257
I had a 2-day event this past weekend. To give the spectators more to see we ran triple A-Main formats, 10 min each main. I ended up TQ'ing and won both A1 & A2, sat out A3. Did quite a bit of setup changes and trying different things.
The traction was good on Saturday, quite lower on Sunday. SP chassis worked great in both condition with a few different setups. So the opinion on the SP chassis only good on high traction and no too good on low traction is a bit overrated. Car transitioned great.
One thing I noticed one setup part of the car that doesn't get mentioned a lot is the rear camber links. I tried different spacers in and outboard and the feedback the car gave me was great and clear. It's a great tuning aid for fine tuning. At one point I didn't want to change the droop, spring, shock angle and sway so I put in a 1mm spacer in and that complimented the entire setup.
And dare I mentioned I broke in the EVO STI. That motor is ballsy!
Dom
The traction was good on Saturday, quite lower on Sunday. SP chassis worked great in both condition with a few different setups. So the opinion on the SP chassis only good on high traction and no too good on low traction is a bit overrated. Car transitioned great.
One thing I noticed one setup part of the car that doesn't get mentioned a lot is the rear camber links. I tried different spacers in and outboard and the feedback the car gave me was great and clear. It's a great tuning aid for fine tuning. At one point I didn't want to change the droop, spring, shock angle and sway so I put in a 1mm spacer in and that complimented the entire setup.
And dare I mentioned I broke in the EVO STI. That motor is ballsy!
Dom
06-13-2006, 08:38 AM
#7258
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
I had a 2-day event this past weekend. To give the spectators more to see we ran triple A-Main formats, 10 min each main. I ended up TQ'ing and won both A1 & A2, sat out A3. Did quite a bit of setup changes and trying different things.
The traction was good on Saturday, quite lower on Sunday. SP chassis worked great in both condition with a few different setups. So the opinion on the SP chassis only good on high traction and no too good on low traction is a bit overrated. Car transitioned great.
One thing I noticed one setup part of the car that doesn't get mentioned a lot is the rear camber links. I tried different spacers in and outboard and the feedback the car gave me was great and clear. It's a great tuning aid for fine tuning. At one point I didn't want to change the droop, spring, shock angle and sway so I put in a 1mm spacer in and that complimented the entire setup.
One thing I noticed one setup part of the car that doesn't get mentioned a lot is the rear camber links. I tried different spacers in and outboard and the feedback the car gave me was great and clear. It's a great tuning aid for fine tuning. At one point I didn't want to change the droop, spring, shock angle and sway so I put in a 1mm spacer in and that complimented the entire setup.
And dare I mentioned I broke in the EVO STI. That motor is ballsy!
Dom
Dom
06-13-2006, 08:57 AM
#7259
Sure, pm me your email address and I'll send it out to whoever wants it.
As Mike was telling me, it was a weird weekend for motor tuning. The moisture in the air was changing constantly. Both our STI ran around 250 for good power. Anything less than 240 you just can't get power out of it, and it likes being in the 250-260 range anyway. Motor is stronger overall. Mike tested his with the new RB pipe w/ medium header then a VR12+ pipe, he said the RB/medium header had way too much torque for Sunday, the VR12+ made the car easier to drive. I didn't do any pipe testing, I wanted to make sure I give the STI consistency at its early stages.
Dom
As Mike was telling me, it was a weird weekend for motor tuning. The moisture in the air was changing constantly. Both our STI ran around 250 for good power. Anything less than 240 you just can't get power out of it, and it likes being in the 250-260 range anyway. Motor is stronger overall. Mike tested his with the new RB pipe w/ medium header then a VR12+ pipe, he said the RB/medium header had way too much torque for Sunday, the VR12+ made the car easier to drive. I didn't do any pipe testing, I wanted to make sure I give the STI consistency at its early stages.
Dom
06-13-2006, 09:14 AM
#7260
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
Sure, pm me your email address and I'll send it out to whoever wants it.
As Mike was telling me, it was a weird weekend for motor tuning. The moisture in the air was changing constantly. Both our STI ran around 250 for good power. Anything less than 240 you just can't get power out of it, and it likes being in the 250-260 range anyway. Motor is stronger overall. Mike tested his with the new RB pipe w/ medium header then a VR12+ pipe, he said the RB/medium header had way too much torque for Sunday, the VR12+ made the car easier to drive. I didn't do any pipe testing, I wanted to make sure I give the STI consistency at its early stages.
Dom
As Mike was telling me, it was a weird weekend for motor tuning. The moisture in the air was changing constantly. Both our STI ran around 250 for good power. Anything less than 240 you just can't get power out of it, and it likes being in the 250-260 range anyway. Motor is stronger overall. Mike tested his with the new RB pipe w/ medium header then a VR12+ pipe, he said the RB/medium header had way too much torque for Sunday, the VR12+ made the car easier to drive. I didn't do any pipe testing, I wanted to make sure I give the STI consistency at its early stages.
Dom