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Old 06-06-2005, 06:55 AM
  #2836  
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Just done the 1st meeting with the RRR, got rear ended 3 times and I binned it at the end of the straight (55mph), but so far no damage.
So where is this flimsy breaks on a bump rear shock tower ?
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Old 06-06-2005, 06:59 AM
  #2837  
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Can anyone point me out to the page on spolls and parts needed? Or let me know what is needed to make a spool diff?

Cheers
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Old 06-06-2005, 07:08 AM
  #2838  
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Originally Posted by Dynamite
hey guys i'm having an absolute * of a time trying to get the front solid into the car... origionally i didnt put it in because i found the belt too tight and binded up the front of the car so i stuck with the oneway...

now i can get the solid to go in albeit really really tight that it pushes the front bulkheads out a little... but i can get it in there, i found turning the right bearing housing around made it go as easy as the oneway drops in - hoping the housing wont come off when i go to try it...

at least i can get the dang thing in now...

the problems i have now is the ackerman hits the outer rim where the ballcups for steering arms attach, actually hits the ballcup. also the front right cvd sits into the solid perfect but the left cvd sits right at the end and falls out... so i thought what the... stuck the oneway back in... sits in the same distance both sides...

so although i am hanging out to try a solid in the front! i just cant seem to make it work in getting it to go in functionally!!! ARRGH!!

has anybody else had these problems? or found some solutions? (i got the recomended front drives too so they cant be too small)
Relax bro, have a bex and a lie down.......

There are no issue's fitting the solid axle in, i think your problem is you have used the inside spacer on the pully??? You dont need that bit, the axle should float in between the bulkheads...

What you also have to do is space the ballcups down 1mm on the servo saver, this will then clear the housing.

As for using a solid at Fairy Medow, well im not sure thats the gun setup....

See ya on Sunday..

Regards

Kyle
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Old 06-06-2005, 10:22 AM
  #2839  
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Originally Posted by NiMo
I was thinking the same, as on my FW05 I went from the 4mm Shimo chassis to the 2.5mm FW05S chassis and the handling is so much more forgiving.

Who does a 2.5mm for the RRR?
Me. I have to mill one down and try it. I tried a 3.5, and it still was no good. I am using the 3racing which is basically the same as the Kyosho. I'll let you know after this Sunday how it works.
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Old 06-06-2005, 10:40 AM
  #2840  
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Originally Posted by Grinder
Me. I have to mill one down and try it. I tried a 3.5, and it still was no good. I am using the 3racing which is basically the same as the Kyosho. I'll let you know after this Sunday how it works.
Hi Uriah,

did you ever run your Mugen with a front spool?
If so, could you PM me a setup please.

If not, do you know what setup Nick ran on his car?

Thanks buddy,

Stefan
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Old 06-06-2005, 10:58 AM
  #2841  
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Originally Posted by Grinder
Me. I have to mill one down and try it. I tried a 3.5, and it still was no good. I am using the 3racing which is basically the same as the Kyosho. I'll let you know after this Sunday how it works.
I look forward to your results
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Old 06-06-2005, 01:23 PM
  #2842  
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Grinder what part of the chassis are you shaving off ?
By doing this arent you making the chassis weak?
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Old 06-06-2005, 01:25 PM
  #2843  
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Originally Posted by Grinder
Me. I have to mill one down and try it. I tried a 3.5, and it still was no good. I am using the 3racing which is basically the same as the Kyosho. I'll let you know after this Sunday how it works.
how can we get our hands on this new chasis!!!
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Old 06-06-2005, 01:26 PM
  #2844  
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I guess what im asking how is this going to make the car better than it already is
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Old 06-06-2005, 01:31 PM
  #2845  
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Originally Posted by carkillaii
I guess what im asking how is this going to make the car better than it already is
from what i know, when you use the 4mm chasis, it takes away a lot of the steering and traction. but with a 3 mm chasis, you get better handling (steering and traction). so they think maybe with a 2.5, you might even get better handling than the 3mm. that is what i have gathered from this anyhow.
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Old 06-06-2005, 01:35 PM
  #2846  
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Originally Posted by carkillaii
I guess what im asking how is this going to make the car better than it already is
On my FW05 I found that with the standard FW05S chassis and the 3racing radio plate I had more chassis flex which made the car less nervous over the bumps and kerbs, and it also appeared to have more corner grip with a much harder tyre.
So a car with more grip from a harder tyre should give better tyre wear.
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Old 06-06-2005, 04:39 PM
  #2847  
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why do people run a fuel filter on the persure line
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Old 06-06-2005, 05:32 PM
  #2848  
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Originally Posted by TRAJ
Thanks For that champ I owe you a front set of tyres
LOL.....no worries
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Old 06-06-2005, 05:43 PM
  #2849  
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Originally Posted by TRAJ
Can anyone point me out to the page on spolls and parts needed? Or let me know what is needed to make a spool diff?

Cheers
You`ll need a solid axle adaptor (theres a plastic one in the kit but this`ll strip)....3-Racing make a aluminium one.
You`ll need the VZ218 outdrives, and (4) 2 x 6mm F/H screws to mount the pulley.
Its worthwhile to also get a new pulley (then theres no having to swap them between the one-way and front diff/spool)....its the same pulley as the one-way.....pulley set part # is VZ203.
Cheers
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Old 06-06-2005, 06:14 PM
  #2850  
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Originally Posted by joemugen
from what i know, when you use the 4mm chasis, it takes away a lot of the steering and traction. but with a 3 mm chasis, you get better handling (steering and traction). so they think maybe with a 2.5, you might even get better handling than the 3mm. that is what i have gathered from this anyhow.
This is kind of interesting to me. I always thought the more rigid the chassis is the better it is.
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