Capricorn LAB-C01
#1891
Tech Initiate
Any updates for 2013 on this car, LAB C03?
#1892
Tech Addict
First of all go to the 0,9mm front anti rollbar.
2 degrees rear toe-in
Go back to 1 degree of front toe
More front camber
Rear upper arm to inner lower hole
But the whole setup looks a bit weird to me, maybe this is what the track needs but judging from the video it looks pretty normal.
It's not weird for the handling to change when the amount of grip increases. If the car has been understeering slightly in low grip most of the time it will only get worse when the amount of grip increases.
If the changes listed above don't make the car better I would suggest trying the 'Mach' setup from my site:
http://www.capricornrc.nl/ExportBest...stede&Type=pdf
This setup seems to work for most drivers and most tracks. Like every setup you should copy it exactly with every single setting the same.
The setup also works with the SRS body but I personally prefer the RS4. The SRS has more turn in but washes out mid corner. The RS4 also feels a lot smoother.
2 degrees rear toe-in
Go back to 1 degree of front toe
More front camber
Rear upper arm to inner lower hole
But the whole setup looks a bit weird to me, maybe this is what the track needs but judging from the video it looks pretty normal.
It's not weird for the handling to change when the amount of grip increases. If the car has been understeering slightly in low grip most of the time it will only get worse when the amount of grip increases.
If the changes listed above don't make the car better I would suggest trying the 'Mach' setup from my site:
http://www.capricornrc.nl/ExportBest...stede&Type=pdf
This setup seems to work for most drivers and most tracks. Like every setup you should copy it exactly with every single setting the same.
The setup also works with the SRS body but I personally prefer the RS4. The SRS has more turn in but washes out mid corner. The RS4 also feels a lot smoother.
Rear Lower Roll Center is at lowest, would that be -0.5
MM on shims on the Uprights is 6mm ( never saw something like that )
Regarding rear toe in, once i go less than 2.5 my car spins out of control in certain sections of the track very badly off power entry steering.
But will try it out
Ackerman 13 gives more ackerman effect or less?
Thanks once again
#1893
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
I've been told the car will remain the same for the 2013 season.
Lowest rollcentre is -1.5 I think. Other settings are 0 and 0.75
The low lower insert and 6mm shims on the upright is something Jilles came up with. It gives the car more rotation without making it loose rear traction. It works on most tracks.
Ok, that's probably because it's a bumpy track. Try adding front end grip and keep the rear toe settings the same.
Thanks DS checked the setup sheet and couldn't understand well the following
Rear Lower Roll Center is at lowest, would that be -0.5
MM on shims on the Uprights is 6mm ( never saw something like that )
Regarding rear toe in, once i go less than 2.5 my car spins out of control in certain sections of the track very badly off power entry steering.
But will try it out
Ackerman 13 gives more ackerman effect or less?
Thanks once again
Rear Lower Roll Center is at lowest, would that be -0.5
MM on shims on the Uprights is 6mm ( never saw something like that )
Regarding rear toe in, once i go less than 2.5 my car spins out of control in certain sections of the track very badly off power entry steering.
But will try it out
Ackerman 13 gives more ackerman effect or less?
Thanks once again
Lowest rollcentre is -1.5 I think. Other settings are 0 and 0.75
The low lower insert and 6mm shims on the upright is something Jilles came up with. It gives the car more rotation without making it loose rear traction. It works on most tracks.
Ok, that's probably because it's a bumpy track. Try adding front end grip and keep the rear toe settings the same.
The least amount of Ackermann will be with the 12 insert or the new 13 servosaver.
And yes less Ackermann will give the car more off power steering, if the Ackermann is set wrong at the moment.
And yes less Ackermann will give the car more off power steering, if the Ackermann is set wrong at the moment.
#1894
Tech Initiate
Does the nt1 side belt fit this car? I know both rear and front do but I have no idea about the side one!
#1896
Tech Initiate
Thanks .
By the way does the side belt need to be replaced frequently? I mean from race to race or within 2 races!
I'm kinda getting ready because I think I'm going to race Capricorn this year I'm really looking forward to it .
By the way does the side belt need to be replaced frequently? I mean from race to race or within 2 races!
I'm kinda getting ready because I think I'm going to race Capricorn this year I'm really looking forward to it .
#1897
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
It depends on which belt you're running.
For the original low-friction belts I would recommend replacing them after 2-3 races.
The new types should last longer but don't know how long exactly, only ran them during the euros.
Don't know how long the long-life belts last since I've never tried them, prefer the drivetrain efficiency provided by the low-friction belts.
For the original low-friction belts I would recommend replacing them after 2-3 races.
The new types should last longer but don't know how long exactly, only ran them during the euros.
Don't know how long the long-life belts last since I've never tried them, prefer the drivetrain efficiency provided by the low-friction belts.
#1898
Tech Initiate
Thanks :-)
2-3 races is enough since i usually replace the low friction from race to race including practices!
2-3 races is enough since i usually replace the low friction from race to race including practices!
#1899
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Kevlar diffs
I received questions from various drivers about what's the difference between the standard diffs and the Kevlar diffs.
So here it goes:
Besides the obvious difference in material between the two diffs is the biggest difference the amount of oil the diffs can hold. The Kevlar diff is able to hold more oil compared to the standard diff. Because it can hold more oil it will be more consistent and smoother. It might take some testing to get the same feel compared to the standard diffs. Because they hold more oil you might need to use a slightly thicker oil to have the same amount of diff action.
The Kevlar diffs also might be a bit lighter, they look lighter, but haven't weighed them so this is just a guess.
So here it goes:
Besides the obvious difference in material between the two diffs is the biggest difference the amount of oil the diffs can hold. The Kevlar diff is able to hold more oil compared to the standard diff. Because it can hold more oil it will be more consistent and smoother. It might take some testing to get the same feel compared to the standard diffs. Because they hold more oil you might need to use a slightly thicker oil to have the same amount of diff action.
The Kevlar diffs also might be a bit lighter, they look lighter, but haven't weighed them so this is just a guess.
#1900
Tech Apprentice
Shocks
any one know of better shocks maybe metal , I have been use the Capricorn ones for the last 3 races and they work well for about a day but then they get air or leak and I have replace all parts with same result??
#1901
Tech Regular
Get the KM Racing H-K1 shocks, i fill them once a year.
They are pretty good, good enough for a WC.
They are pretty good, good enough for a WC.
#1903
Tech Regular
#1904