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Old 06-04-2004 | 12:17 AM
  #11941  
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It probably wont need much break in because they lapped the cylinder and piston already.
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Old 06-04-2004 | 12:22 AM
  #11942  
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Originally posted by CraigH
It probably wont need much break in because they lapped the cylinder and piston already.
I was starting to get this impression, too
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Old 06-04-2004 | 12:24 AM
  #11943  
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Originally posted by markp27
Bearings front and back are ceramic and the crankshaft is at least partially coated - I can't remember now if it was fully coated or not.

Polish my balls
Only the big-end side of the shaft is coated, not the shaft/inlet side


Also we have the old sleeve from old batch , this is the new one:
Attached Thumbnails Serpent 710-chemise3.gif  
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Old 06-04-2004 | 12:28 AM
  #11944  
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Originally posted by markp27
I was starting to get this impression, too
But you do need to run it in!
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Old 06-04-2004 | 12:33 AM
  #11945  
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: D, a friday pic for you!

Originally posted by Schrijver99
Only the big-end side of the shaft is coated, not the shaft/inlet side


Also we have the old sleeve from old batch , this is the new one:
Do you know what the orange seal is for?

Old sleave I'll have to buy another JP, then
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Old 06-04-2004 | 12:33 AM
  #11946  
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Originally posted by Schrijver99
But you do need to run it in!
I'm treating this one with a lot of respect
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Old 06-04-2004 | 12:37 AM
  #11947  
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: D, a friday pic for you!

Originally posted by Schrijver99
Also we have the old sleeve from old batch , this is the new one:
Yup. That's what I kept hearing... Apparently Novarossi has a revised sleeve. Mod companies like NovaMax and JP will get the "revised" sleeves as what the new Novarossi engines would spot.

Look at the pics here. See any similarities with the new NSR sleeve?
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Old 06-04-2004 | 12:40 AM
  #11948  
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What's the best way to remove the conrod from the crankshaft - It takes me ages to get the conrod removed as it keeps getting stuck on the last bit of the crankshaft's conrod pin Any tips would be appreciated
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Old 06-04-2004 | 12:40 AM
  #11949  
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Originally posted by Schrijver99
But you do need to run it in!
Not if you have the "Moteur rode" sticker version on the box. That one is broken in in the factory already.
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Old 06-04-2004 | 12:44 AM
  #11950  
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Originally posted by markp27
What's the best way to remove the conrod from the crankshaft - It takes me ages to get the conrod removed as it keeps getting stuck on the last bit of the crankshaft's conrod pin Any tips would be appreciated
Use a wrench no. 7 spanner. Look at the RB website.
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Old 06-04-2004 | 12:44 AM
  #11951  
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Originally posted by InitialD
Not if you have the "Moteur rode" sticker version on the box. That one is broken in in the factory already.
You language skills are coming to the fore again, D

I was looking high-and-low for this, but it looks like mine needs running in.
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Old 06-04-2004 | 12:44 AM
  #11952  
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Initial D,

I'm not sure if you seen my post a couple pages back, but here it is again.

D,
I didn't compare the KO 2343 and 2344 for myself.
I asked Josh Cyrul about it, and this is what he said.

PSI Racing - I prefer the higher torque in my gas cars. I used to always choose the speed for the steering but after I tested a few different servos I then opted for the high torque as I liked the feel - less twitchy off center but it did seem to have more steering in the higher speed (higher load) corners. I'm not sure what Ralph uses...
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Old 06-04-2004 | 12:45 AM
  #11953  
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Originally posted by markp27
You language skills are coming to the fore again, D
You have to flaunt it some times.
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Old 06-04-2004 | 12:46 AM
  #11954  
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Originally posted by markp27
What's the best way to remove the conrod from the crankshaft - It takes me ages to get the conrod removed as it keeps getting stuck on the last bit of the crankshaft's conrod pin Any tips would be appreciated
!!! Dont do that !
If it still stuck.. good, dont remove it. Mostly a "new" engine is difficult to pull out the engine. Should be easier after completely broken in.
If still hard to do, (if it was my engine) I prefer to let it there.
Just take up the sleeve and spray the piston and crankshaft with CRC(contact cleaner) or Permatex(carb/choke cleaner).
Do not use your kungfu for this part.
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Old 06-04-2004 | 12:48 AM
  #11955  
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Originally posted by PSI Racing
I'm not sure if you seen my post a couple pages back, but here it is again.
Yup. Saw it. Well, I guess slower servos will suite some hands while some people will swear by faster steering servos. I know people who purposely look for the slightly slower analog steering servos because they simply cannot drive with faster digital ones. One man's meat, another man's poison.
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