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Old 05-19-2004, 12:22 AM   #10786
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Originally posted by BaxterC
Well, Mr Pimp man... If everyone liked or wanted a 710, who would be left to run the Mugens... We would have no competition... Or bashing in our forums if everyone wanted a 710?
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Old 05-19-2004, 12:26 AM   #10787
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: I can smile again!

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Originally posted by InitialD
Yup. I hear our competitors are also using that book to solve their car handling problems !
Serpent should have used Parsel tongue as their language (see Harry Potter: it's the Snake language!!!)


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Well, there is no minimum. From what I read, Julius mentioned that 4 mm was the sweat spot ! You can try 3 mm or 5 mm. Perhaps it will or will not be better.
Oh man, and I can't cut the screw down - the screw is too long for a 4mm spacer

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If that's hell, I want to go to !
You're just going to have to sin then, aren't you
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Old 05-19-2004, 12:27 AM   #10788
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: I can smile again!

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Originally posted by InitialD
Let's hope at the end of the day they give you 3 engines then or charge you only for 1 engine instead of 2.
Don't know what you're talking about *cough* tyre truer *cough*
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Old 05-19-2004, 12:27 AM   #10789
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Originally posted by GoldFinger
When you start using drag brake, spring on the brake linkage instead of fuel tubing is smoother.
What do you mean bro? Instead of the usual fuel tubing on the front of the brake linkage where the plastic knob is, you replace it with a spring? If you wanted to brake hard, then it would be very difficult to stop the car. I guess not if you're using oneway.
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Old 05-19-2004, 12:30 AM   #10790
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: I can smile again!

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Originally posted by markp27
Serpent should have used Parsel tongue as their language (see Harry Potter: it's the Snake language!!!)


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Originally posted by markp27
Oh man, and I can't cut the screw down - the screw is too long for a 4mm spacer
Use a shorter M4 screw. I can't remember off my head but the stock one was like M4x20. I think M4x16 would do the trick.

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You're just going to have to sin then, aren't you
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Old 05-19-2004, 12:40 AM   #10791
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: I can smile again!

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Originally posted by InitialD

Use a shorter M4 screw. I can't remember off my head but the stock one was like M4x20. I think M4x16 would do the trick.
Coool!!! It's actually a 25mm part and I've just found my Vector NT has 20mm M4 screws for the upper arm spacers
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Old 05-19-2004, 03:16 AM   #10792
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Originally posted by InitialD
What do you mean bro? Instead of the usual fuel tubing on the front of the brake linkage where the plastic knob is, you replace it with a spring?
Yes, I replace it with throttle spring (G4, its smaller diameter than serpent). I found the braking is way smoother. Please try, im sure you will pleased with the result.

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Originally posted by InitialD

If you wanted to brake hard, then it would be very difficult to stop the car. I guess not if you're using oneway.
When using one way, use the car in front of you to stop immediately
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Old 05-19-2004, 03:34 AM   #10793
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Originally posted by GoldFinger
When using one way, use the car in front of you to stop immediately
That's a good one. And cruel too I might add.
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Old 05-19-2004, 05:30 AM   #10794
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what do you have now, profoxcg
electronics and an engine in a box, lol

no car for a few days. then ill get an mtx3 or a prospec. For some reason I am skeptical about paying the extra $180+ for the prospec
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Old 05-19-2004, 08:08 AM   #10795
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Smile

Hi I have two questions in reference to my NOVA MAX 5P:

First: I am interested in getting a spare CONROD but due that this is a modify engine I donít now if I can use the regular part from NOVAROSSI NS12 S5

Second: What is the effect in changing the Head shim from .3 to .4

Thanks
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Old 05-19-2004, 08:09 AM   #10796
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Originally posted by rcpanama
As per the manual you are correct but I do like it this way, you can check this side from Glenn Cauley and check some comments on this

http://www.mytsn.com/forums/forum.a...62&pid=9569

Jose

You might want to reconsider the throttle linkage.

With the fuel tubing on the carb side, the carb will indeed close more quickly. However, when you brake the servo will strain against the fuel tubing. This is NOT good for the servo.
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Old 05-19-2004, 08:39 AM   #10797
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Quote:
Originally posted by GlennCauley
This is NOT good for the servo.
Precisely...
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Old 05-19-2004, 08:40 AM   #10798
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcpanama
First: I am interested in getting a spare CONROD but due that this is a modify engine I donít now if I can use the regular part from NOVAROSSI NS12 S5
Yes, you can use the conrod from the NS12 engine. In fact, all Novarossi .12 engines use the same conrod. Part number is NRS-07601.

Quote:
Originally posted by rcpanama
Second: What is the effect in changing the Head shim from .3 to .4
You gain a little in the top end at the expense of a little bottom end. Temperature should drop a little due to less compression.
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Old 05-19-2004, 08:58 AM   #10799
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Quote:
Originally posted by GlennCauley
You might want to reconsider the throttle linkage.

With the fuel tubing on the carb side, the carb will indeed close more quickly. However, when you brake the servo will strain against the fuel tubing. This is NOT good for the servo.


Hi Glen yes I did change yesterday the fuel tubing change it to a spring, the i4C Voltage monitor shows that with the spring the consumption is down when I hit the brake.
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Old 05-19-2004, 09:00 AM   #10800
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Originally posted by InitialD
Yes, you can use the conrod from the NS12 engine. In fact, all Novarossi .12 engines use the same conrod. Part number is NRS-07601.



You gain a little in the top end at the expense of a little bottom end. Temperature should drop a little due to less compression.
Thanks & sorry for my ignorance or my English but what will you call top end & botton end?
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