R/C Tech Forums - Serpent 710

Originally posted by markp27
I working on the principle that Ayrton Senna honed his driving talent by practicing in England whenever it rained - hey, if it worked for him..... ;) :lol:

:lol: I never knew that...

markp27

05-09-2004 11:19 AM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Thrustbearing after run.

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
I thought so too until crashed_1 pointed that out to me. True enough I went home to grind those dimples away and the "jump" went away.

I think it is because the dogbones are free to move in the lateral position. And because the dogbone can sit in the dimple or sit elsewhere in the outdrive, there is a difference in play and makes for the "jump".

Do you mean that because of the dog bone pins hitting the slots of the outdrives, there were dimples created? That would figure with the suspension jumping if the pins got "lodged" in the dimples :nod:

markp27

05-09-2004 11:20 AM

Centax Q

If I add another shim to the thrust bearing holder end of the Centax, do I have to take a correspondingly sized one away from the spring adjuster end?

InitialD

05-09-2004 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Motorman
there are several methods on the flyweights, cutting the tips gives them less centrifical force as they get lighter so the engine must spin up more to overcome the spring and engage the clutch. this is good and bad. its good because you can get some more low end punch, but because the force is lower as engine torwue rises the clutch starts slipping as the shoe cannot hold the clamp on the bell tight enough.

I think there's some confusion here... We cut the edges of the flyweights NOT to make it lighter but so that the flyweights will fit in BETWEEN the post of the flywheel which the flyweights will NOT be mounted on the pins as per the manual.

Mounting the flyweights in BETWEEN the post makes the flyweights "heavier".

Quote:

Originally posted by Motorman
Glen the spring PN's are
Mugen H0767 Silver Super hard
Mugen H0764 Medium

I've tried the Mugen super hard spring on the Centax 3. Note that because the diameter on the complete spring is larger than Serpent's, the spring binds. So the shoe movement somewhat binds. Have you noticed this? How do you overcome this? Or do you not have this problem?:confused:

Quote:

Originally posted by Motorman
My 2 cents
heavy flyweights and spring GOOD
light flyweights and soft spring BAD

I remember asking you why you thought and preferred SOFTER clutch springs on Centax clutches (on your MTX-3) to which you did not reply... Anyway, you now say that you like harder spring better?

InitialD

05-09-2004 11:23 AM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Thrustbearing after run.

Quote:

Originally posted by markp27
Do you mean that because of the dog bone pins hitting the slots of the outdrives, there were dimples created?

:nod:

Quote:

Originally posted by markp27
That would figure with the suspension jumping if the pins got "lodged" in the dimples :nod:

Yup.:nod: The dogbone pins get lodged in and out of the dimples make the rear end vibrate and jump.

markp27

05-09-2004 11:25 AM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Thrustbearing after run.

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
:nod:

Yup.:nod: The dogbone pins get lodged in and out of the dimples make the rear end vibrate and jump.

I wonder why the gap in the outdrives is so large, relatively speaking - this increases the force of the pins "hitting" the outdrives.

InitialD

05-09-2004 11:27 AM

Re: Centax Q

Quote:

Originally posted by markp27
If I add another shim to the thrust bearing holder end of the Centax, do I have to take a correspondingly sized one away from the spring adjuster end?

Yup.:nod:

InitialD

05-09-2004 11:31 AM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Thrustbearing after run.

Quote:

Originally posted by markp27
I wonder why the gap in the outdrives is so large, relatively speaking - this increases the force of the pins "hitting" the outdrives.

I thought when new, the dogbones fit very tightly in the outdrives. I think almost no play which makes it quite different to get the dobones out of the outdrives if you ever need to access and take out the rear ball diff completely. Play only comes from the wheel adaptors on the other end of the dogbone.

markp27

05-09-2004 11:31 AM

Re: Re: Centax Q

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
Yup.:nod:

The Centax seemed to be a little too slow on the uptake and as I have an end gap of 0,7 I thought I should add a 0,2 to bring the gap down to 0,5mm

Cheers, Mark.

InitialD

05-09-2004 11:36 AM

Re: Re: Re: Centax Q

Quote:

Originally posted by markp27
The Centax seemed to be a little too slow on the uptake and as I have an end gap of 0,7 I thought I should add a 0,2 to bring the gap down to 0,5mm

You could always loosen the pre-tension nut of the clutch spring to get faster clutch engagement. Loosen it 1/4 of a turn at a time to get the best launch out of the corners and from standstill.

If you find that the clutchbell having difficulty spinning and tends to bind after adding 0.2 mm shim in the front end of the clutch, then you know that you have too much shims between the pre-tension nut and bearing.

InitialD

05-09-2004 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by markp27
As I mention in the FAQ, though, the narrower the track, the less upwards suspension travel you get - but as I'm running 200mm with the 2x1mm spacers, then I still have plenty of uptravel :nod:

I believe the less upward travel suspension is due to the rear dogbones having less horizontal space to travel or even binding when the suspension travels up and down. Lesser sideway movement due to smaller rear trackwidth.

So "cheating" with 2x1mm spacers to make 200 mm rear trackwidth would still create the possibility of making the rear suspension bind, does it not? The hubs would still be closer to the chassis even when you used spacers at the wheel hex adaptor.

markp27

05-09-2004 11:42 AM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Centax Q

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
You could always loosen the pre-tension nut of the clutch spring to get faster clutch engagement. Loosen it 1/4 of a turn at a time to get the best launch out of the corners and from standstill.

If you find that the clutchbell having difficulty spinning and tends to bind after adding 0.2 mm shim in the front end of the clutch, then you know that you have too much shims between the pre-tension nut and bearing.

I wanted to try the shims as I already have the adjuster set to 0,5mm which doesn't leave much more room to play - thanks for the clutchbell tip :nod:

markp27

05-09-2004 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
I believe the less upward travel suspension is due to the rear dogbones having less horizontal space to travel or even binding when the suspension travels up and down. Lesser sideway movement due to smaller rear trackwidth.

So "cheating" with 2x1mm spacers to make 200 mm rear trackwidth would still create the possibility of making the rear suspension bind, does it not? The hubs would still be closer to the chassis even when you used spacers at the wheel hex adaptor.

Yes, but what I meant was more in relation to the pivot balls - I run a 200mm rear track with the spacers, so I gain an extra 1mm from the pivot balls being screwed further and therefore less likely to be pulled out. I wanted to point out that although this would limit the uptravel (as I'm effectively running a 198mm track width), that at this width it will have very little effect - if you see what I mean?

InitialD

05-09-2004 11:47 AM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Centax Q

Quote:

Originally posted by markp27
I wanted to try the shims as I already have the adjuster set to 0,5mm which doesn't leave much more room to play - thanks for the clutchbell tip :nod:

Ummm, have you done any mods on the flyweights?

Either that or your bottom end (LSN) is still on the rich side. Do a pinch test to check if your LSN is rich.

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